McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Thanks. Let's see if this will do. View attachment 178230View attachment 178231View attachment 178232View attachment 178233View attachment 178234 Ron

Ron

 

[rwoods]

The cleaner saw (top) is the 138#. The dirty saw (bottom) is the 164#. Can't feel any ridges. Ron

 

[leeha]

The last pic must be the lower compression saw.
It doesn't look great. I would disassemble that one
and see if the is any cylinder damage. Might just need
a piston and or just rings. I'm pretty fussy so i would
do both piston and rings.
The first pic's look good.


Lee

 

[leeha]

You beat me Ron, Well i would have thought the lower
would have been the last pic. If the last pic is the better
then maybe i would try running it. Toss a set of rings in
other saw. I'm not sure what normal compression readings
are. I will pull one off the shelf tonight and try but i may not
be able to as i broke my right wrist Tuesday.



Lee

 

[paccity]

another find

View attachment 178241View attachment 178242starting down that road:wink2:..

 

[rwoods]

You beat me Ron, Well i would have thought the lower
would have been the last pic. If the last pic is the better
then maybe i would try running it. Toss a set of rings in
other saw. I'm not sure what normal compression readings
are. I will pull one off the shelf tonight and try but i may not
be able to as i broke my right wrist Tuesday.



Lee

Take care of yourself. Don't go jerking on one for me with a broken wrist. I tried to get a compression reading on my first 125. It has a smaller diameter cord and once I hit 152#, I could not hold it down and achieve a complete revolution. All I could do is get a short bump. I was able to test the others by holding them oil tank down against a thick door mat (bars removed). I thought surely with a 36" bar I could hold my first down on its bottom - but no way.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

Pac - That's quite a long bar for a 250, don't lean on it too hard.

Here's some photo's from the saws arriving this past month.

First up, 1-72, 1-46, SP70, 33 on the bench

The 1-46 has the McCulloch carburetor with choke and a full wrap handle bar and late version 24" hard nose bar in like new condition.

The SP70 runs but needs some carburetor work, should be an easy fix. At the moment the brake band is broken/missing but I am hoping I can find a replacement. I added the bar and chain, relatively new acquisition from Baileys.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

More photo evidence, Pro 10-10 and Pro Mac 60. The PM 60 runs and came with a case, not sure that is much of a benefit as I don't use a case for transporting saws.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark, nice saws. I bid on a SP60 and a SP70 a few weeks back because I thought they may be both useful and collectible. Didn't get either one. Ron

 

[dieselsmoke]

View attachment 178241View attachment 178242starting down that road:wink2:..

So you're the one.... I spotted that ad late last night, to late to make a call. This morning, I couldn't seem to find it anymore????
I tried different spellings, wrong spelling, different combinations of saw, mcculloch, colton, etc. I hope it turns out as good as the pics appear. A 250 is a good place to start, well, maybe after a 10-10. IMHO.

 

[heimannm]

Last photo set, the 1-72. Someone made a welding repair of the clutch cover and buggered it up so I will have to find one in the attic to change it out.

This saw evidently did not get used very much as evidenced by the condition of the bottom.

Equipped with the Town & Country muffler in great condition. For those that are not familiar the T&C allows you to adjust the muffler from Loud to LOUD with the flip of a baffle.

24" roller nose bar, needs a litte dressing but it should be very nice when done.

Mark

 

[paccity]

So you're the one.... I spotted that ad late last night, to late to make a call. This morning, I couldn't seem to find it anymore????
I tried different spellings, wrong spelling, different combinations of saw, mcculloch, colton, etc. I hope it turns out as good as the pics appear. A 250 is a good place to start, well, maybe after a 10-10. IMHO.

ya. sorry about that, but i'm finding ya got to jump fast. saw it last night called at the crack.picked up a old super pioneer 51 at the same time. missed out on a few that i thought about to long. the 250 is real clean , i'll go through it this weekend.

 

[promac850]

I got the workbench cleared off since the car will be waiting on parts. Injector seals are shot, and some of the fuel system needs some cleaning.

So the 790 engine is on the bench...
I have gotten a few parts pulled off of it, but am at a stalemate with the flywheel... will work more on that tomorrow. Have sprayed penetrant on there, heated it up with the little puny propane torch just enough that I could barely hold it, and held the flywheel with my hand while firmly tapping the end of the crank with a rubber mallet.

Figured it would come off by now, I guess not...



--Ron, I forgot to put the kill switch that you need in the mail... been so busy this past week, beating a dead horse the whole way on almost everything. Not necessarily one of my most efficient weeks... I will do everything I can to get in the mail tomorrow... I hope I remember... :bang:

 

[heimannm]

PM - There are two 1/4-20 tapped holes in the flywheel; I screw a couple of 1/4-20 socket head cap screws through a large, thick washer and my gear puller to apply the force and on occasion have to give a rap on the end of the puller under maximum pressure to get them to pop off. Make sure to hold the saw up by the puller when you smack it to avoid putting any more abuse on the bearing than absolutely necessary.

Good advice from Saw Dr. is to leave the flywheel nut on but back it off a few turns. The nut will keep the flywheel from leaving the saw at high velocity and potentially landing on the floor where it can break a fin.

Mark

 

[dieselsmoke]

I got the workbench cleared off since the car will be waiting on parts. Injector seals are shot, and some of the fuel system needs some cleaning.

So the 790 engine is on the bench...
I have gotten a few parts pulled off of it, but am at a stalemate with the flywheel... will work more on that tomorrow. Have sprayed penetrant on there, heated it up with the little puny propane torch just enough that I could barely hold it, and held the flywheel with my hand while firmly tapping the end of the crank with a rubber mallet.

Figured it would come off by now, I guess not...



--Ron, I forgot to put the kill switch that you need in the mail... been so busy this past week, beating a dead horse the whole way on almost everything. Not necessarily one of my most efficient weeks... I will do everything I can to get in the mail tomorrow... I hope I remember... :bang:

Constant pressure from a puller works magic. pennetrating oil, pressure, time, and presto its apart.

 

[cpr]

Equipped with the Town & Country muffler in great condition. For those that are not familiar the T&C allows you to adjust the muffler from Loud to LOUD with the flip of a baffle.

Mark

Awesome score on the 1-72. Mine has the T&C as well. Doesn't do very much. I took mine off and sanded it all down and repainted with high-temp paint to preserve it. They're fun to run.

 

[cpr]

I got the workbench cleared off since the car will be waiting on parts. Injector seals are shot, and some of the fuel system needs some cleaning.

So the 790 engine is on the bench...
I have gotten a few parts pulled off of it, but am at a stalemate with the flywheel... will work more on that tomorrow. Have sprayed penetrant on there, heated it up with the little puny propane torch just enough that I could barely hold it, and held the flywheel with my hand while firmly tapping the end of the crank with a rubber mallet.

Figured it would come off by now, I guess not...



--Ron, I forgot to put the kill switch that you need in the mail... been so busy this past week, beating a dead horse the whole way on almost everything. Not necessarily one of my most efficient weeks... I will do everything I can to get in the mail tomorrow... I hope I remember... :bang:

PM - There are two 1/4-20 tapped holes in the flywheel; I screw a couple of 1/4-20 socket head cap screws through a large, thick washer and my gear puller to apply the force and on occasion have to give a rap on the end of the puller under maximum pressure to get them to pop off. Make sure to hold the saw up by the puller when you smack it to avoid putting any more abuse on the bearing than absolutely necessary.

Good advice from Saw Dr. is to leave the flywheel nut on but back it off a few turns. The nut will keep the flywheel from leaving the saw at high velocity and potentially landing on the floor where it can break a fin.

Mark

Always have had to use a puller on these. The fins are already boogered. Take a pic PM. I have no idea how they all got rounded over like that. I wouldn't run that flywheel if it was me...

 

[promac850]

Alright, here are some pics of the booger wheel...

Here is a closer one...

To be honest, it seems like something that shouldn't be much of a problem, but I am not sure... it's a pretty clean machining that seems to have occurred from something riding along the tip of the fins. Nothing like something was shoved into the fins while it was running.

After I get it off and cleaned, I was thinking if it has no cracks or the like at the base of the fins, I would run it. I have a lawn mower blade balancer.... maybe I can see if the flywheel is balanced with that... anyone ever do such a thing?

 

[heimannm]

I would clean up the rough edges and use that flywheel until a better one comes along.

For your information, the flywheels are interchangable from the D-30 and 44 Series saws through the 1-40/50/60/70/80 and 200/300/400/500/600/700/800 all the way up to the SP125.

The only differences along the way were the addition of the starter pawls to the flywheel for left hand start models. You can see on the one in the photo that the bosses are there for the pawls if you wanted to convert it to use on a left hand start saw.


Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you don't have a puller all you need is a flat piece of steel with two holes drilled in it to make your own puller.