McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian13]

Well Mac heads... I've got that puller tightened as tight as I can get it... tightened it a little more with a wrench acting as a lever on one of the unoccupied slots in the puller, and used a ratchet with the proper socket to turn the screw...

it's had tension on it for almost 48 hours now... Lots of rust penetrant in the keyway, still on there. Pretty incredible that you spend 1/3 of the actual time the saw has been around to get a flywheel off...

Be careful with all that pressure on the puller. On my Super 250 the flywheel was stuck on there real bad like that. Took about a wee to get it off. I ended up deforming the bolt on the puller, I dont know if it was just cheap quality puller or what but the end was all mushed. In the end I just kept taking a small torch heating up the flywheel, some more PB Blaster, and more pressure on the puller. Just kept doing that and eventually it came off. Ended up getting Grade 8 bolts that went into the flywheel, cause I snapped others I had. Just be patient and keep working at it, it will pop off eventually. As somebody said when I was working on the Super 250 "it didnt get that way overnight, dont expect to get to come apart overnight" LOL.

 

[cpr]

Yup, took a week of pressure, PBlaster, and taps with a hammer to get the one on my 795 off.

 

[promac850]

Hmm... probably should get some grade 8 bolts and such then... :hmm3grin2orange:

I'm using a slotted machine screw in one hole and a bolt in the other... those are the only 1/4-20 long enough to use with the puller...

I noticed I bent a washer too, probably should get some thicker washers...

As for tapping the puller bolt, will try that a bit today and see if it wants to be nice and pop off for me. Will heat it some more with the propane blows-o-matic torch and tap the puller bolt and see if it pops off then. Kinda itchy to get inside of a motor big enough to put on a Toro snowblower...

 

[leeha]

Not sure why some of you guys are having
such a hard time with removing flywheels.
I use a good nut with a very short bolt threaded
half way into the nut then screw onto the crank.
Pry up under the flywheel then a couple good wacks
on the installed bolt and pop there off.
To me penetrating fluids don't work on two machine
surfaces just rusted surfaces.



Lee

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not sure why some of you guys are having
such a hard time with removing flywheels.
I use a good nut with a very short bolt threaded
half way into the nut then screw onto the crank.
Pry up under the flywheel then a couple good wacks
on the installed bolt and pop there off.
To me penetrating fluids don't work on two machine
surfaces just rusted surfaces.



Lee

I have a little, flat crowbar for prying...it doesn't leave a big scrape or dent like a screwdriver or regular bar does.

 

[heimannm]

I've had a few flywheels that were stuck pretty tight as well. After you have the puller good and tight, a good swat with the hammer on the end of the puller will normally do it. As I mentioned from Saw Dr.'s advice, leave the nut on to prevent the flywheel from becoming a flying wheel, I like to hold the saw up by the puller to try and minimize the impact on the bearings.

PM - if your washer is deforming you may be losing a lot of the tension from the flywheel. Try a thicker washer or doubling them up to make sure the maximum force is working on the flywheel.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Nice looking 1-72 Mark!!

Its time to track down a 895 project saw!! Got some cash for the b-day, and that is what I am going to try to find with it. I think that will pretty much take care of the big saws for me LOL.

I have an 840 project in pieces, waiting to make a swap with JJ for a 795 engine to put in it, I have a 1-70 boxed up ready for him to be part of a kart saw project of his own.

795 + gear box = 895. If it ends up a nice runner I will likely switch the 48" bar over to that one, put the 36" back on the 840 and be ready for anything that comes up.

Mark

Mark

 

[watsonr]

ID please if possible?

Looking at a saw and don't know what it is, seller say's 55, but that's not it. One of you smart Mac guys will nail it in a couple seconds.

Thanks,

 

[leeha]

Looking at a saw and don't know what it is, seller say's 55, but that's not it. One of you smart Mac guys will nail it in a couple seconds.

Thanks,

Could be a 55, Super 55 or a 1-80



Lee

 

[watsonr]

thanks Lee

 

[cpr]

If the starter and filter covers are correct, it's a D-55. Super 55, Super 55A, and 1-80 are also possible...

 

[dogder]

McCulloch Timber Bear

I was given a McCulloch Timber Bear Model 60013414 today. It had been sitting for about 3 year. I put fresh fuel in it and won't start. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thank you

 

[briantutt]

I was given a McCulloch Timber Bear Model 60013414 today. It had been sitting for about 3 year. I put fresh fuel in it and won't start. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thank you

Get a carb kit for it and a new fuel filter. Might as well replace the fuel lines too. I suppose you could try to just clean the carb first but I always end up getting a new kit since they are pretty cheap.

 

[heimannm]

Ron - I would say 55 is probably right. The starter cover, the front handle mount, and the air filter cover are all typical of the 55. The Super's normally had a cast cover rather than the stamped steel one, and the Super A's have a cast grill over the flywheel air intake.

I don't have a clear photo of my 55 from the top, but you can see in the photo's of the 44 Series the differences between the three.

Mark

 

[watsonr]

Ron - I would say 55 is probably right. The starter cover, the front handle mount, and the air filter cover are all typical of the 55. Mark

Thanks Mark

 

[heimannm]

I was given a McCulloch Timber Bear Model 60013414 today. It had been sitting for about 3 year. I put fresh fuel in it and won't start. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thank you

Empty any old fuel mix from the tank, pour in some fresh mix, dump it out, repeat until the tank is clean then add some more fresh mix.

Next thing is to pull the spark plug and crank it over with the spark plug touching metal on the saw to verify you have a good spark.

If yes, before replacing the spark plug pour a teaspoon or so fo fuel mix right down the plug hole into the combustion chamber. Replace the plug and pull it a few times with the throttle held wide open, it should fire and run for a second or two. If you catch it before it ties try slipping the choke on and see if it will pull a little fuel on it's own. If it dies, again pull it over with the throttle wide open to make sure it is not flooded, if no go then try again with the choke, if not go then you may have to prime it a bit down the carburetor with a little more fresh mix.

If priming it and starting it 2-4 times does not get it running, you will likely have to clean the fuel system and carburetor, may require a carburetor kit as Brian noted.

You may not get a lot of attention here with a TB as we tend to favor the vintage saws.

Mark

 

[paccity]

250

saw dosn't seem to have many hr's on it. p&c look almost new. clean it up alittle and find an apropriate b&c for it sould be good to go.View attachment 178862View attachment 178863View attachment 178864

 

[homelitejim]

A while back I acquired a Mcculloch 250 from a ma and pa saw shop. This saw was in their junk pile and let me have it at a fair price. I finally got a chance to tear it down and clean it up this weekend and was pleasantly surprised to find that the only thing wrong with it was the corroded lower portion of the rear handle, which I replaced 2 weeks ago and a broken clutch cover, which I am still looking for. The entire fuel system had been rebuilt, new lines, new filter, new carb kit. The electrical had also been gone through as the coil looks new and has a gold electronic ignition chip mounted to it. After clean up and re assembly she fires right up. I could not ask for more from a junk pile saw, hope the C9 I'm picking up later is in as good a shape.

 

[cpr]

I've put down a bunch of 1-53s and 250s because I felt they'd never compare to my Super 250 and would sit unused as a result. There's been a rash of them here lately and I'm getting the itch for one...

paccity, you have a nice one there.

 

[Eccentric]

Ron - I would say 55 is probably right. The starter cover, the front handle mount, and the air filter cover are all typical of the 55. The Super's normally had a cast cover rather than the stamped steel one, and the Super A's have a cast grill over the flywheel air intake.

I don't have a clear photo of my 55 from the top, but you can see in the photo's of the 44 Series the differences between the three.

Mark

A wise McCulloch Man uses words like "usually", "normally", and "probably". The old blessing/curse of Mac interchangablilty makes "100%" identifications dificult.

RandyMac's 790 has the Super A style "hockey mask" grill guard on the starter cover (but a plastic inner grill). My 790 (verified with a bore measurement) has a Tillotson HL, when it's "supposed" to have a flatback. Randy's 790 wears an AF cover that has no decal left on it. The cover does have "440" written on the top of it with a sharpie. Lots of parts swapping going on over the course of 45+ years...

I saw a pic of a 55 or Super 55 listed in an Oregon CL ad a while ago. That saw had what was clearly a stamped steel McCulloch 77 AF cover on it! The cover had the starting instruction lettering and "77" intact. The seller never answered my emails. I'd have liked to know where the rest of that 77 was...