cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
The thread will probably kick off tonight if I can get the kids to stay in bed, LOL!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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promac850
formerly promac610
Oh, you got that one? I wanted that one, too but I'll be content with the 52 that went over earlier in the week. It'll go great with my 101 that came today.
Yay!! Your 101 came in!!!
Can't wait to see what you do with it.
Hmm... what are you gonna do with it? :msp_mellow:
Here's your cigar too! 
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mark is certainly successful in his yellow adventures. In my experiences with him he deserves everything good that comes his way.
Chris
:agree2: +1 of many. Ron
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
You ain't kidding Ron. Too many good fellas around here.
Lots to learn around here, chainsaws are just the tip of the iceberg.
Chris
Oh, you got that one? I wanted that one, too but I'll be content with the 52 that went over earlier in the week. It'll go great with my 101 that came today
I'm glad you got it. :msp_thumbup: I tried but failed as I had other obligations at closing so I don't know if you are as quick as Ambull. But does this mean you guys are now satisfied and the third one is mine? Just kidding. It is already approaching my limit. Ron
hwrdpromac7900
ArboristSite Operative
Mac 3200 won't idle
Put new primer bulb lines, primer bulb, tank line, carb kit and the saw will not idle. I start it and rev it up but won't idle. 130psi cold. I don't see any scoring on intake or exhaust port. I do notice fuel spitting back out of the carb when reved up. Any help appreciated.
Put new primer bulb lines, primer bulb, tank line, carb kit and the saw will not idle. I start it and rev it up but won't idle. 130psi cold. I don't see any scoring on intake or exhaust port. I do notice fuel spitting back out of the carb when reved up. Any help appreciated.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm good for a spell, I have my hands full now :hmm3grin2orange:!
Although whoever aped me on the Super 250 with a 42" bar off CL...
No harm, I was too slow on that one.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Forgive my ignorance having never worked over one of these, but when you did the carb kit, did you pop the welch plugs and verify clear passages? In my experience, this has been the number one problem when a saw won't idle or rev out due to one side or the other being plugged with goo...
LMAO.... I see the roller noses and I just go crazy.... lol. I will try to lay off the next one. I remember you telling me that the kart saw is just a novelty. Well, a 52" bar in this neck of the woods is a novelty as well.
I can't wait to see how the saw does with such a big bar.
JP
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not only is a 52" bar a novelty around here, but so is a saw that will pull it LOL. But I dont have it because I need it either:hmm3grin2orange:.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Given the cost of the chain loop, I'd take a 50"+ roller for $45 every time, but bro you STOLE that one
!
I noticed the the bar you got and I think there is a 60 somethign on there as well. I am on the edge of getting that 34". It would be a I deal for for what I mgith find around ehre to cut. SOmehow a 36" has a nicer ring to it.
I see my chain is a 404 when I measure it on the center pins. Not trying to be dumb but obviously I need a .404 chain to match to my rim drive. No other size will work on it correct. The reason I aks is my 660 has 1/2" chain on it with a 30" bar slim line bar. Not sure of gauge.
Where might I find a new rim drive? Is this as hard to find as everything else or does the rim drive on these saws interchange with other models? I looked on Baileys and of course could not find anything under sp125.
Just looked on the bay for the 34" bar...... gone
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What I meant was that I and many feel the same way about Mark.
I and many others also completely agree with your later statement. There are many good guys on this thread giving a lot of time sharing good advice and interesting stuff. In my book you're one of them. Ron
The replaceable rim should be a standard size. Keep watching eBay for a relisting of the bar or contact the Seller as he usually has more than one bar of each listed. Ron
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you have a replaceable rim sprocket, then they are easy to swap between 3/8s and .404. You can go to your local saw shop and get rims, should be the large spline. But you do have to run the right chain for the sprocket. Gauge dosnt matter so much, but the pitch has to be right. A 36"with .404 chain would be real nice for your saw I think. A hard nose or roller nose will work with any pitch, as long as you match the gauge of the chain to the bar.
The SP125 rim sprockets are very standard issue. They are the same as Husqvarna, Jonsered, Pioneer, and many other brands. To get the clutch off you can do the rope trick, or take off the flywheel cover and put a wrench on the flywheel nut to hold the crank. Remember that the clutch nut is reverse thread.
Saw runs really bad if you have a rim sprocket on it that does not match the chain's pitch. Also, the gauge must match the bar, or you will have major problems. If the bar has a sprocket nose, the pitch of the chain must match both sprockets as well.
The Mac 125 has kind of an oddball setup where the bar lines up with the guides and gets oiled. The bar is bigger than most modern bars, and it needs an oil hole that will line up the oiler slot. the oil then gets injected into the bottom of the top rail, and the chain scavenges it away after coming off the drive sprocket. My Homelite 750 has the oiler hole in a different spot than the MAC 125, and the bar end and guide plates are smaller, so the bars are not compatible, even though the studs, and the tension slots are the same.
Hope this helps.
Saw runs really bad if you have a rim sprocket on it that does not match the chain's pitch. Also, the gauge must match the bar, or you will have major problems. If the bar has a sprocket nose, the pitch of the chain must match both sprockets as well.
The Mac 125 has kind of an oddball setup where the bar lines up with the guides and gets oiled. The bar is bigger than most modern bars, and it needs an oil hole that will line up the oiler slot. the oil then gets injected into the bottom of the top rail, and the chain scavenges it away after coming off the drive sprocket. My Homelite 750 has the oiler hole in a different spot than the MAC 125, and the bar end and guide plates are smaller, so the bars are not compatible, even though the studs, and the tension slots are the same.
Hope this helps.
Rim drive sprockets should always be available from shops or on line, large spline for the big frame McCulloch saws, small spline for the 10 Series and 600 Series saws.
You can find new spline clutch drums for the 10/600 Series on e-bay all the time. I was able to get some new spline drums (to use with rim sprockets) for the large saws from Lil' Red Barn in VA. Took a while to get them (supplier did not ship on schedule) but they kept me informed and by waiting a few months I did finally get them.
Beauty of a hard nose sprocket is the fact you can use whatever pitch chain you want, but as Brian and others have noted, the gauge must match or the chain will either flop around or bind up.
I have had a few questions lately about removing the flywheel from the old McCulloch saws so I thought I post this photo again. This is a simple puller I made from a thick washer to line up with the two 1/4-20 tapped holes in the flywheel. In my experience all of the flywheels on the large saws have these tapped holes already in them, but sometimes it helps to clean the threads out by running a tap through them.
I think it was Saw Dr. that recommended leaving the flywheel nut on loosely to prevent the flywheel from becoming a flying wheel when it pops off. I have had the experience of getting the puller cinched up tight, turning around to get a hammer to tap the puller, and having the flywheel pop off while my back was turned.
This was a 1-70 Series saw so there where no starter pawls to contend wtih. I like to use socket head cap screws as they all tend to be grade 8 and so are a bit stronger than grade 3 or grade 5 fasteners.
Mark
You can find new spline clutch drums for the 10/600 Series on e-bay all the time. I was able to get some new spline drums (to use with rim sprockets) for the large saws from Lil' Red Barn in VA. Took a while to get them (supplier did not ship on schedule) but they kept me informed and by waiting a few months I did finally get them.
Beauty of a hard nose sprocket is the fact you can use whatever pitch chain you want, but as Brian and others have noted, the gauge must match or the chain will either flop around or bind up.
I have had a few questions lately about removing the flywheel from the old McCulloch saws so I thought I post this photo again. This is a simple puller I made from a thick washer to line up with the two 1/4-20 tapped holes in the flywheel. In my experience all of the flywheels on the large saws have these tapped holes already in them, but sometimes it helps to clean the threads out by running a tap through them.
I think it was Saw Dr. that recommended leaving the flywheel nut on loosely to prevent the flywheel from becoming a flying wheel when it pops off. I have had the experience of getting the puller cinched up tight, turning around to get a hammer to tap the puller, and having the flywheel pop off while my back was turned.
This was a 1-70 Series saw so there where no starter pawls to contend wtih. I like to use socket head cap screws as they all tend to be grade 8 and so are a bit stronger than grade 3 or grade 5 fasteners.
Mark
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Thieroff just posted his new S550 which I traded to him for this 650 gear drive. I finished converting this over to a HL with a locking choke. For a gear drive, this saw is no slowpoke. I'm expecting a batch of roller nose bars along with a total of 60' of 1/2" full chisel Oregon #10. Should be a 28" General in there that will find a home on this saw. I've wanted one of these for quite some time and I can see what all the fuss is about.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
FWIW, I found that a shimano pedal bearing is almost the exact same size as the bearing inside the auto oiler pump of a Super 250. I dont know if all the pumps use the same size bearing or not, but I lost one a while ago and had to steal it from my parts saw. Now the parts saw is on the rebuild table and I needed that ball bearing for the check valve in the oil pump. So if you lose one your local bike shop may have have a something you can use.
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