McCulloch Chain Saws

[Warped5]

[video]http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/jmueller57/chainsaw/?action=view&current=007-2.mp4[/video]

Forgive me if this is redundant or sounds TOO stupid .... but why pull the starter rope when shutting down the saw? Flame away ...

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks guys. The link worked, though my computer was still cranky with lots of buffering. My connection is kinda sketchy at times too. Since I live in the sticks I'm limited to satalite internet. If a bird farts at the wrong time, my connection gets interrupted. The neighborhood is talking about getting cable ran out here (so we can get decent high speed internet and better TV). That's spendy though...

I may well go to Firefox soon. Things were even worse when we switched to IE 9 a while ago. We dumped it and went back to IE 8.whatever that we had before, as none of the flashplayers or other cool stuff wanted to work with IE 9. It's crap....

Saw sounds fantastic BTW. What a beast!!!

 

[Eccentric]

Forgive me if this is redundant or sounds TOO stupid .... but why pull the starter rope when shutting down the saw? Flame away ...

We covered this at length a few weeks ago (and a few years ago too). On saws that have the starter pawls on the flywheel, it's a good practice to pull the rope out a bit before shutdown. The engine will "bounce back" a bit at shutdown and can break starter parts when the pawls grab. Pulling the rope out a bit gives some "cushion" for it when it snaps back.

McCulloch and others used to put instructions for this in the opperators manuals. Saws that have pawls, dogs, or fingers in the recoil mechanism (most modern saws, and saws with Fairbanks-Morse starters) do not require this practice, and can be damaged if you pull the rope out while the engine's running.

 

[Warped5]

We covered this at length a few weeks ago (and a few years ago too). On saws that have the starter pawls on the flywheel, it's a good practice to pull the rope out a bit before shutdown. The engine will "bounce back" a bit at shutdown and can break starter parts when the pawls grab. Pulling the rope out a bit gives some "cushion" for it when it snaps back.

McCulloch and others used to put instructions for this in the opperators manuals. Saws that have pawls, dogs, or fingers in the recoil mechanism (most modern saws, and saws with Fairbanks-Morse starters) do not require this practice, and can be damaged if you pull the rope out while the engine's running.

"I see ..." said the blind rat ...

Thanks for the detailed info!
Appreciate it!
Repped!

 

[Eccentric]

"I see ..." said the blind rat ...

Thanks for the detailed info!
Appreciate it!
Repped!

Thanks for the rep. No need to flame you. A lot of guys don't know this. A few years ago, a guy here was flamed and belittled because he posted this info. Guys who thought they knew everything slammed him. He wasn't the best at getting his point accross.............but didn't deserve the crap he got from the 'experts'. He hasn't been here in a long time...:msp_sad:

Make sure you pull the starter rope out at shutdown (unless it's an emergency shutdown) when running that McCulloch SP81 and Super 550. Nice saws to have BTW!

 

[Brian13]

Here I thought we were in for a trip back to bell bottoms and roller skates, vans and disco balls, easy women and cheap gas.

Nice saws, Mark, but still a buzz kill.

It took me a few minutes to figure out how a pair of vans shoes fit in with the rest of the list. Guess I am showing my age LOL:msp_tongue:.

Thanks for the info Mark.

Here are some pics and a vid of my new 125/101B. This saw is the real deal. I never had a saw that torque steers this much when I goose the throttle. Can't wait to do some cutting with it. I will probably swap bars to cut with it. It has 404 .058 skip tooth set up now.

Very nice and healthy sounding saw!!!! Looks like it has the large spikes as well if I am not mistaken. Looks to be one badass saw!!!!

Forgive me if this is redundant or sounds TOO stupid .... but why pull the starter rope when shutting down the saw? Flame away ...

When shutting down the saw, the pawls on the flywheel sometimes grab the starter and gives it a jerk. If the starter is pulled out a bit there is no real stress put on anything and helps prevent breakage.

 

[Brian13]

We covered this at length a few weeks ago (and a few years ago too). On saws that have the starter pawls on the flywheel, it's a good practice to pull the rope out a bit before shutdown. The engine will "bounce back" a bit at shutdown and can break starter parts when the pawls grab. Pulling the rope out a bit gives some "cushion" for it when it snaps back.

McCulloch and others used to put instructions for this in the opperators manuals. Saws that have pawls, dogs, or fingers in the recoil mechanism (most modern saws, and saws with Fairbanks-Morse starters) do not require this practice, and can be damaged if you pull the rope out while the engine's running.

Beat me to it with a better explanation LOL.

 

[Eccentric]

It took me a few minutes to figure out how a pair of vans shoes fit in with the rest of the list. Guess I am showing my age LOL:msp_tongue:.
.

You got it now Brian. Vans shoes were an '80s and '90s thing. Shaggin' Wagon van-conversions are what Jeff was talkin' about methinks...:jester:

Beat me to it with a better explanation LOL.

Ha!!!
Old age and treachery beats youth and skill.......:jester:

I'm not that much older than you Brian, although I sure feel that way sometimes. Beats the alternative though. Also, it's not the age.........it's the miles that hurt...:cool2:

 

[Warped5]

Make sure you pull the starter rope out at shutdown (unless it's an emergency shutdown) when running that McCulloch SP81 and Super 550. Nice saws to have BTW!

Thanks!

I definitely will adopt that habit! I refer to my Dolmar as 'my little monster' .... I now definitely have a couple of 'larger monsters ...'

I just picked those two up last night and they're still in my Jeep. I will hopefully post a thread tonight with pics. They will be projects right after the PM 610. The 550 will be a bit of a challenge getting some parts for.

 

[Ambull]

When you pull the rope out a bit and shut those big saws down, it is quite a yank that they give. After doing it once you will be convinced that it is a good idea.

 

[promac850]

I've gotta start getting that 'pull rope trick' into my routine when shutting the saw off. Old habits die hard, that's one thing I can tell you.

Good news all, my telescoping gauges finally arrived today!!!

In a while, expect the resulting measurements to show up in the 790 project thread.

I got that little green weedeater back together after a minor porting of the exhaust and a small hole drilled into the muffler cover. She popped, and then ran for a few seconds, so I'm getting close to handing over a 20cc rip snorting weedeater to pop's work. I think they use it to trim around the building.

All I know, is they might be wondering why it's louder...

 

[struggle]

I received my new NOS bar today for the SP125 but have an issue. Things are not what they seem to be:msp_unsure:

The oil holes are not quite right The part # on my old bar is 87077RG and the new bar is 86255XM

It would seem it would work if I make the two holes one by grinding the center section out. Ideas?

 

[bergman 501]

just bought a 250 cylinder, but it must be for a super 250? bigger bore and a compression release? no part # or id stamped into the bottom (no paint--looks new) part # on box that it came in is 87273 and on the shipping tag is 87450-5. ?? thanks in adv-----

 

[struggle]

Here is a couple more pictures. The chain is about 1/4 from being out of adjustment:msp_scared: I am thinking after it stretches a bit it will be maxed out:confused2:

Would removing a link take care of this or would it then be to short?

I must say though I do like the way it looks but I need it to work though.

 

[SawGarage]

Mac ID??

Hey guys... a local guy contacted me about a partial trade with THIS and a Wright blade saw (looks based on a 26lcs, or something??)

can someone give me an idea of what Gear-drive this is??

thanks all..

he's putting a price tag on it of $100... BUT... it doesn't run (Said he got it started with a socket and a drill

 

[RandyMac]

1-60 series, $100 too much.

 

[rwoods]

I received my new NOS bar today for the SP125 but have an issue. Things are not what they seem to be:msp_unsure:

The oil holes are not quite right The part # on my old bar is 87077RG and the new bar is 86255XM

It would seem it would work if I make the two holes one by grinding the center section out. Ideas?

Here is a couple more pictures. The chain is about 1/4 from being out of adjustment:msp_scared: I am thinking after it stretches a bit it will be maxed out:confused2:

Would removing a link take care of this or would it then be to short?

I must say though I do like the way it looks but I need it to work though.

Oiling: Lay one of your bar plates against the new bar; if the oil slot and the oil hole line up you should be okay.

Lenght: You can run it until it stretches too much and then you can shorten the chain. Or if you have the lenght you can shorten it now.

Bar spacer: You might need a bar spacer with your bar if it is a narrow (height) bar. There should be some posts on this thread that will help you with this.

Ron

 

[promac850]

Struggle, that bar looks nice on that big old yellow saw.

 

[struggle]

Oiling: Lay one of your bar plates against the new bar; if the oil slot and the oil hole line up you should be okay.

Lenght: You can run it until it stretches too much and then you can shorten the chain. Or if you have the lenght you can shorten it now.

Bar spacer: You might need a bar spacer with your bar if it is a narrow (height) bar. There should be some posts on this thread that will help you with this.

Ron

If I lay the bar plate over the bar it barely catches the edge of the upper hole which would leave it way short on oil. If I open the space between the holes with a grinder it will be good to go like the elongated hole on the old bar pictured.

 

[Brian13]

You got it now Brian. Vans shoes were an '80s and '90s thing. Shaggin' Wagon van-conversions are what Jeff was talkin' about methinks...:jester:

Ha!!!
Old age and treachery beats youth and skill.......:jester:

I'm not that much older than you Brian, although I sure feel that way sometimes. Beats the alternative though. Also, it's not the age.........it's the miles that hurt...:cool2:

Shaggin Waggins were already out of style by the time I came around I think LOL. I grew up with vans shoes.....still wear them today LOL. Thats why it took a second for me to put 2and2 together LOL. And I agree about the miles, some days I feel a good 10-15 years older than I really am.....Today is about 15ish.

Here is a couple more pictures. The chain is about 1/4 from being out of adjustment:msp_scared: I am thinking after it stretches a bit it will be maxed out:confused2:

Would removing a link take care of this or would it then be to short?

I must say though I do like the way it looks but I need it to work though.

That bar looks good on there, hope you can get it to fit right.