McCulloch Chain Saws

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Crankcase cover is off the kart motor thanks to Mark. :) Wouldn't you know that I can't bind it now that the crank is unsupported on the flywheel side. Anyway does anyone know a non-eBay source for the splined socket needed to remove the rod cap?

Is $12 and some change a piece too expensive for the crank seals? The inner seal had the lip folded. I might as well fix it right while I have it apart.

I ordered some NOS 125 parts today including: bar plates, spacer plates, clutch, clutch kit (bearing, sprocket and drum), :clap: muffler kit (includes muffler) and a muffler :clap: . Sorry, guys but they only had one muffler kit and one muffler. My homemade muffler project will just have to wait.

I also brought from an AS member something I do know a little about - a Super Pro 70. Shouldn't be too difficult to put it back together and I should already have in inventory all the parts that are missing or need replacing. Now I'll have a 700 with AV or would it be a 7-10 with AV? According to Acres it is closer in age to a 700.

Ron

I imagine the seals should be available at a local bearing house, as Mark mentioned a hundred or so posts ago...

Try NAPA. I plan to stop there tomorrow to pick up or order some crank seals for my 790. I do know they deal with bearings and stuff like that. See people come in with bearings many times.
 
I imagine the seals should be available at a local bearing house, as Mark mentioned a hundred or so posts ago...

Try NAPA. I plan to stop there tomorrow to pick up or order some crank seals for my 790. I do know they deal with bearings and stuff like that. See people come in with bearings many times.

Thanks, but I don't believe there is a local bearing house in my small town. I was never able to find a source for 10 series seals so I have taken my chances with NOS purchases - it bugs me to buy an old rubber part. Remember your fuel line experience. Ron
 
Ron - $12 for both seals would be fine, $12 each seems a bit high.

If the crank shaft binds when the cover is installed, it may be that the bearing is not seating fully pushing the crank shaft off center. You could try tapping the crank shaft on either end and keep trying it until everything works smoothly. That technique works on saw with a split case where the bearings are real snug in the bores.

Mark
 
Ron - $12 for both seals would be fine, $12 each seems a bit high.

If the crank shaft binds when the cover is installed, it may be that the bearing is not seating fully pushing the crank shaft off center. You could try tapping the crank shaft on either end and keep trying it until everything works smoothly. That technique works on saw with a split case where the bearings are real snug in the bores.

Mark

If you do this, use a rubber mallet. Then a little more 'tapping' can be done. ;)
 
Thanks, but I don't believe there is a local bearing house in my small town. I was never able to find a source for 10 series seals so I have taken my chances with NOS purchases - it bugs me to buy an old rubber part. Remember your fuel line experience. Ron

If you have the seal number sometimes an auto parts place can match them up.
 
Brass, put the nuts on first if you can't be sure to hit is square...

Mark

Plastic dead blow.
No nuts, no bounce.


Lee

Either will get the job done, I have both and use em. Usually dead blow first if there's room, brass is much smaller and gets into tight spots better. If it's real tight, I have a brass 1/2" rod to use as a punch. If you're a weekender and have none of that, use a hardwood dowel for a punch and let that soak up the damage. cheap, easy, and if you can't find one, step away from the chainsaw please sir!
 
Thanks, guys. It looks like it might be a simply fix after all. I do have a brass drift.

Seals: I have a kart source for NOS at about $2 each for the crank cover seals but you have to buy a bag of 10.

I can see now where with a little experience and the proper tools one can strip and rebuild these engines in no time. The 125 is easier to work on than a ten series - more room and bigger parts.

Ron
 
PM700 serial number question

I have what I have always assumed is a really late PM700. But the serial number is different. All my other 700's have 600601d as the model code on the tag. This one is 60011602. Does anybody know what this means? If that code means a 10-10 or something, the tank must have been changed because this thing cuts way too good to be a 10-10.
 
I have what I have always assumed is a really late PM700. But the serial number is different. All my other 700's have 600601d as the model code on the tag. This one is 60011602. Does anybody know what this means? If that code means a 10-10 or something, the tank must have been changed because this thing cuts way too good to be a 10-10.

On those old Macs about anything can be changed around. Some of the old 10-10 series are about like Johnny Cash's Cadillac.
 
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I would not part with that kind of coin if the saw did not have a NOS (or original) bar ..... and needed repair? Come on!

Makes me wonder what my Super 550 may be worth on feeBay .... :msp_ohmy:

There is only a $15 spread between the two and the reserve has not been met. To me the one needing repair looks to be in better shape of the two. 125s and 82cc MACs have been hot for a while now. I doubt the market is as big for a Super 550 but it maybe a saw that someone just has to have. Ron
 

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