McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Pm850's......I wish shipping costs weren't so high,i'd chuck my near mint PM850 Super (with a cosmeticly(SP) mint condition piston scewed spare 850super)on the bay and see what i could get......Heck i only payed NZ$140 for it..about US$114


Finally got around to playing with my 7-10a today,I stripped it down and checked the piston last week,it all looks good.
Thought i'd chuck a carb kit in it before i reassembled it.
Got it all back together and took it outside for a play
It was a b*&ch to get started.....didn't want to idle,it would rev out nicely but bog down off idle.It would idle for a few minutes then die,20 pulls later it would start......
Spent about an hour messing around with carb settings before giving up and grabbing a spare carb i got in the 700 barrel parts. Chucked that on,didn't even clean it,second pull it fired....
Pirated the 24" b/c off the Pm700 and cut up a few noodles...

Man these things have some grunt.....I'm happy now.
 
Pm850's......I wish shipping costs weren't so high,i'd chuck my near mint PM850 Super (with a cosmeticly(SP) mint condition piston scewed spare 850super)on the bay and see what i could get......Heck i only payed NZ$140 for it..about US$114


Finally got around to playing with my 7-10a today,I stripped it down and checked the piston last week,it all looks good.
Thought i'd chuck a carb kit in it before i reassembled it.
Got it all back together and took it outside for a play
It was a b*&ch to get started.....didn't want to idle,it would rev out nicely but bog down off idle.It would idle for a few minutes then die,20 pulls later it would start......
Spent about an hour messing around with carb settings before giving up and grabbing a spare carb i got in the 700 barrel parts. Chucked that on,didn't even clean it,second pull it fired....
Pirated the 24" b/c off the Pm700 and cut up a few noodles...

Man these things have some grunt.....I'm happy now.

Use lots of carb cleaner when rebuilding a carb. I always set the H and L screws out 1 turn when starting for the first time. Set the idle pretty high, and you can lower it later. Don't give up - you will get better at it.
 
Hey Warped5! Lets see that puppy .

Not his, but who cares!


ec177af6.jpg


82915f93.jpg


91602092.jpg


Chris
 
Use lots of carb cleaner when rebuilding a carb. I always set the H and L screws out 1 turn when starting for the first time. Set the idle pretty high, and you can lower it later. Don't give up - you will get better at it.

I did skip the carb cleaner part..blew it out with my compressor,I was in a hurry to get it done before dark.
I also set the H&L screws at 1 turn out and had the idle maxed out.
Just thought it abit strange a carb i had laying around went on and ran good.
i need to pop out the little caps(another step i bypassed) and give it a proper clean and try it out on the PM700(its carb needs going thru).
Any tips on getting the little suckers out would be appreciated.

Not his, but who cares!Chris

Man those things look like tanks......
 
Last edited:
I did skip the carb cleaner part..blew it out with my compressor,I was in a hurry to get it done before dark.
I also set the H&L screws at 1 turn out and had the idle maxed out.
Just thought it abit strange a carb i had laying around went on and ran good.
i need to pop out the little caps(another step i bypassed) and give it a proper clean and try it out on the PM700(its carb needs going thru).
Any tips on getting the little suckers out would be appreciated.



Man those things look like tanks......

I would reccomend soaking it in gas or some type of solvent first and then blowing it out before you get into drilling out the welch plugs. There is a outline on how to do this in the 10 series shop manual as well as the Walbro SDC manual.

You could have something clogged/gummed up in there, if you put a known working carb on there and it ran fine obviously this one has an issue somewhere. Get it cleaned out proper before possibly doing some unneccessary labor.

Those saws are tanks! That S550 has some snot behind it.


Chris
 
I would not part with that kind of coin if the saw did not have a NOS (or original) bar ..... and needed repair? Come on!

Makes me wonder what my Super 550 may be worth on feeBay .... :msp_ohmy:

Hey Warped5! Lets see that puppy .

Yea man, let's see T-Rex and Brontosaurus. Or are you too scared to get them out of their hiding spot?

Chris
 
Thanks Thiery. This is the hot thread today.

Kinda busy just now, border skirmish. I think its a diversion, the invasions usually cross the river to the west.
 
Thanks Thiery. This is the hot thread today.

Kinda busy just now, border skirmish. I think its a diversion, the invasions usually cross the river to the west.

Nothing like waking up and going straight into the subject of yellow saws.


Did you get my PM the other day? Feel free to drop me a line in about 30 minutes.


Chris
 
Nothing like waking up and going straight into the subject of yellow saws.


Did you get my PM the other day? Feel free to drop me a line in about 30 minutes.


Chris

I did get it, thx, been living the night life, getting behind. I'd ring you up, at work, insert fat frowny face of boss.

Not diversion, pinchers attack, where the heck did all those troops came from, dammit!
 
Thanks, but I don't believe there is a local bearing house in my small town. I was never able to find a source for 10 series seals so I have taken my chances with NOS purchases - it bugs me to buy an old rubber part. Remember your fuel line experience. Ron

NOS will work fine. That may get old after a few radial shaft seals, though. Also, since these things are made of rubber, NOS runs the risk of being old, hard, and worthless especially if they have lived the last 20+ years in the back of some hot out building somewhere. did you check out the seal links I sent with the ability to find your own Timken p/n's? once you have the p/n, your small town is no longer a factor.
 
NOS will work fine. That may get old after a few radial shaft seals, though. Also, since these things are made of rubber, NOS runs the risk of being old, hard, and worthless especially if they have lived the last 20+ years in the back of some hot out building somewhere. did you check out the seal links I sent with the ability to find your own Timken p/n's? once you have the p/n, your small town is no longer a factor.

You sent a link? Didn't get it if you did. Thanks, Ron
 
Pix - POSTED!

I will pull them out today and post the pix. I am away from home most of the day, but be patient ..... :msp_smile:

Here we go fellers, I have not touched these since picking them up 10 days ago. The Super 550 has a 30" (maybe original) bar and the Super Pro 81 has a 24" that is probably not original. Enjoy! (Chris, the wife was over at the MIL's house)

First, the siblings together ...

185464d1306608478-dscn1895-jpg


The Super Pro 81 ...

185463d1306608473-dscn1896-jpg

185466d1306608488-dscn1897-jpg


The Super 550 ...

185462d1306608468-dscn1898-jpg

185465d1306608483-dscn1899-jpg
 
Last edited:
Here we go fellers, I have not touched these since picking them up 10 days ago. The Super 550 has a 30" (maybe original) bar and the Super Pro 81 has a 24" that is probably not original. Enjoy! (Chris, the wife was over at the MIL's house)

First, the siblings together ...

185464d1306608478-dscn1895-jpg


The Super Pro 81 ...

185463d1306608473-dscn1896-jpg

185466d1306608488-dscn1897-jpg


The Super 550 ...

185462d1306608468-dscn1898-jpg

185465d1306608483-dscn1899-jpg

Braggart!



I would be also.
 
All Warped needs is a good 10-10 to fill out a three saw plan.
(the 610 don't count:hmm3grin2orange:)

A 10-10 would do the trick.



RandyMac and Thieroff put me up to it .... I hadn't intended to post pix until I began work on them, like the 610. :givebeer:

If your wife isn't allowed to see them neither are we, huh?

:laugh:


Nice saws man!

Another man fallen victim to Yellow Fever.


Chris
 

Latest posts

Back
Top