McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The machine shop got the cheapo bolt out for me today, but I still can't remove the crankcase cover due to the liberal use of silicone sealant. ===

oven cleaner will sorta' soften in... but just sorta'. there ain't no easy way to remove silicone - it is inherently inert.

Another thing to try (actually try this first) is to hit it with a good penetrating oil .... Liquid Wrench. I've heard that a 50/50 blend of ATF/Acetone is an even better, but don't know this to be so.

The idea with the oil is to get something to separate the caulk from the base material.

(and what Mark said)
 
Last edited:
oven cleaner will sorta' soften in... but just sorta'. there ain't no easy way to remove silicone - it is inherently inert.

Another thing to try (actually try this first) is to hit it with a good penetrating oil .... Liquid Wrench. I've heard that a 50/50 blend of ATF/Acetone is an even better, but don't know this to be so.

The idea with the oil is to get something to separate the caulk from the base material.

(and what Mark said)

ATF/acetone is some nasty smelling stuff... :dizzy::dizzy: don't use it unless the area is well ventilated, and I mean well ventilated.

I'm sure it'll pop off if Ron uses the puller as prescribed by Mark. You know, pulling straight on the bolts, not crooked... :D
 
oven cleaner will sorta' soften in... but just sorta'. there ain't no easy way to remove silicone - it is inherently inert.

Another thing to try (actually try this first) is to hit it with a good penetrating oil .... Liquid Wrench. I've heard that a 50/50 blend of ATF/Acetone is an even better, but don't know this to be so.

The idea with the oil is to get something to separate the caulk from the base material.

HeRoze, always bear in mind when you read one of my posts that usually I don't know what I am doing. Given Mark's post regarding using a puller, it dawned on me that the fit may be the cause more than the silicone. We'll find out tomorrow after I purchase the right size bolts for the puller. Thanks for your help. I'm getting anxious to solve this rod binding issue and get this saw running. Ron
 
HeRoze, always bear in mind when you read one of my posts that usually I don't know what I am doing. Given Mark's post regarding using a puller, it dawned on me that the fit may be the cause more than the silicone. We'll find out tomorrow after I purchase the right size bolts for the puller. Thanks for your help. I'm getting anxious to solve this rod binding issue and get this saw running. Ron

Don't sell yourself short... There's a few of us "assemblers" around hoping to get to "builder" status.
 
Don't sell yourself short... There's a few of us "assemblers" around hoping to get to "builder" status.

My aspirations aren't that high. I just want unique saws that I can use and enjoy. I do enjoy living the builder's life vicariously through the various threads including yours. I am torn however between the pristine sleeper and MacBob's sleeper that looks like it fell out of the truck one too many times. Ron
 
Mark, what would I do without you? Makes me hope for a BP-1 barn find for you even more. Thanks, Ron

You might find the barn but it will be empty and Mark's truck driving out of the driveway as you pull in:msp_sneaky:
 
HeRoze, always bear in mind when you read one of my posts that usually I don't know what I am doing. Given Mark's post regarding using a puller, it dawned on me that the fit may be the cause more than the silicone. We'll find out tomorrow after I purchase the right size bolts for the puller. Thanks for your help. I'm getting anxious to solve this rod binding issue and get this saw running. Ron

We all start somewhere. I got into this knowing nothing about engines at all. The extent of my knowledge was you put fuel in it, oil somewhere push a button, turn a key, pull a rope and it should work LOL. Still dont know what I am doing most of the time, just figure it goes back together the same way it came apart LOL.

Don't sell yourself short... There's a few of us "assemblers" around hoping to get to "builder" status.

You got that right, I still have a lot more time to put in and a lot more experience to gain. Hell if I can get to Lee's quality I will be happy. But it would be nice to be able to port a kart engine and know what I am doing to:msp_thumbsup:.
 
New CAD addition to family

Hey Guys,
I know some of you have replied to some of my posts before but I had been looking for a good top handle limber... Well my grandfather has passed and we divided up the tools. I got the lil' MacCat seen below. I have used it before and it worked ok. I think dad will get some use out of it limbing the trees that I fell.

1.) 38cc's seems small to be running a 16in bar... What do you guys think? I was thinking of gettting a new 14in bar for it. Chances are this thing is never going to be burried since the 6401 does all the big grunt work now.

2.) Are the little MacCat's like this one just chain store sold like the Poulan? I guess I am getting at what kind of total hrs and reliability should I come to expect from it? It seemed to run and idle than the Poulan WT when i was using it...

P1020329.jpg

P1020330.jpg

P1020332.jpg

P1020333.jpg
 
Hey Guys,
I know some of you have replied to some of my posts before but I had been looking for a good top handle limber... Well my grandfather has passed and we divided up the tools. I got the lil' MacCat seen below. I have used it before and it worked ok. I think dad will get some use out of it limbing the trees that I fell.

1.) 38cc's seems small to be running a 16in bar... What do you guys think? I was thinking of gettting a new 14in bar for it. Chances are this thing is never going to be burried since the 6401 does all the big grunt work now.

2.) Are the little MacCat's like this one just chain store sold like the Poulan? I guess I am getting at what kind of total hrs and reliability should I come to expect from it? It seemed to run and idle than the Poulan WT when i was using it...

P1020329.jpg

P1020330.jpg

P1020332.jpg

P1020333.jpg

Are you gonna port it?!?! :blob2::blob2::blob2:
 
The 16" bar is rather optimistic for that saw, but if the bar and chain are useable why replace them? You don't have to use that saw for the larger stuff and at times you might appreciate the exta couple of inches of reach.

It is a cheap, throw away saw but since you don't have much invested you might as well get some use out of it. You won't be running it all day every day so in fact it will probably provide years of service unless you intentially abuse it.

If it gives you problems one day, you can always move up without feeliing like you are leaving a lot on the table.

Mark
 
Are you gonna port it?!?! :blob2::blob2::blob2:

I have several die grinders and have been thinking of doing some porting... I know how to port v8 engine heads but don't know what to look for and how to port small 2cycle engines. Has any one done a thread on porting; showing pictures before and after with a few instructions so I can read and SEE what to do????

I figured it was a cheaper throw away but the fact that there are so few hours on this saw will probably lend me to keeping it for a bit. The reason I was thinking 14in is b/c it would be easier to wield when doing tree pruning... Eventually I am thinking a Dolmar 3410 or 420 would be nice...
 
Last edited:
The 16" bar is probably a replacement, as many of the Mac Cats were sold with 18" bars. "Dreamer, you know you are a dreamer" must have been playing on the radio in the office that day. Reach is nice, and now that I know (somewhat) what I am doing I wouldn't bury the bar.
Unless its the only saw in my hands at the moment...
And you are still looking for a good top handle limber BTW.
 
And you are still looking for a good top handle limber BTW.

Sorry I edited the last post to reflect your question. A Dolmar 3410 or 420 might be in my future but the wife isn't crazy about me spending more $$$ when I got this mac for free. I am going to ditch the 2 poulan's in my sig and be down to 3 saws... Once this mac cat gives up the ghost or starts costing me more money I'll be in the market for a good top handle limber. Why do you ask?
 
Was a definitive statement, rather than a question. You are still looking for a good top handle saw, as you don't have one yet.
 
I have several die grinders and have been thinking of doing some porting... I know how to port v8 engine heads but don't know what to look for and how to port small 2cycle engines. Has any one done a thread on porting; showing pictures before and after with a few instructions so I can read and SEE what to do????

I figured it was a cheaper throw away but the fact that there are so few hours on this saw will probably lend me to keeping it for a bit. The reason I was thinking 14in is b/c it would be easier to wield when doing tree pruning... Eventually I am thinking a Dolmar 3410 or 420 would be nice...

Porting 101 thread...

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/108900.htm

Also, the most important thing to know, is to only widen the intake and exhaust... don't raise or lower them.

You can widen them to about 2mm from the edge of the narrowest part of the piston skirt. Accidentally going a hair more isn't gonna hurt you.

Now that I think of it, you may simply want to just run it as it is, and if it starts needing some work, like fuel lines and such, when you have the saw apart is the time to port it.

I ported my 30cc trimmer, holy crap, what a difference.

Jeff, I've got a top handle limber... it's 89cc... :D
 
Was a definitive statement, rather than a question. You are still looking for a good top handle saw, as you don't have one yet.

yeah I got ya now... I agree and would rather have a ms200t, 338xpt, or 3410, but I kinda have to deal with the cards I've been dealt. On the brighters side of things I also got a Generac 5500 watt generator! Grandpa fell into "the worlds going to shut down in the year 2000" deal so he had the generac "just in case."
 
The 16" bar is probably a replacement, as many of the Mac Cats were sold with 18" bars. "Dreamer, you know you are a dreamer" must have been playing on the radio in the office that day. Reach is nice, and now that I know (somewhat) what I am doing I wouldn't bury the bar.
Unless its the only saw in my hands at the moment...
And you are still looking for a good top handle limber BTW.

Now we quote SuperTramp lyrics? :msp_confused:

"Tell me Grey Seal, how does it feel to be so wise?" :cool2:

Personally, I like having a 16" - 18" bar for the reach; my 350 is ideal. I recently used an MS180 with a 14" and was constantly wishing the bar was longer. Just my $.02.
 
Now we quote SuperTramp lyrics? :msp_confused:

"Tell me Grey Seal, how does it feel to be so wise?" :cool2:

Personally, I like having a 16" - 18" bar for the reach; my 350 is ideal. I recently used an MS180 with a 14" and was constantly wishing the bar was longer. Just my $.02.

That MS180 needs to try out a 24" bar...

No creamsickles allowed here... :D
 
That MS180 needs to try out a 24" bar...

No creamsickles allowed here... :D

I agree about the creamsickles :hmm3grin2orange: Just trying to illustrate a point :laugh: I NEVER said the MS180 was mine! It actually belonged to the lady on whose land we were clearing; she was having difficulties starting it and asked us to check it out...
 
Back
Top