mikemouse
ArboristSite Lurker
great thread! It brought back good memories.
I found an article that stated McCulloch had 29 firsts over the years that were important innovations to the chainsaw market since 1948, for other saw maker to follow. Since the 1980's it looks like things have kind of went down hill ever since.Well... since Bruce started this thread about Mac's, we won't get off into the Lombard's here... they're another of the old saw makers... some really clunky antique saws when you get into their 1940-1950's models. I just used Lombards as an example of counter-weights for the brushcutter... there's a few Old Mac chainsaws which weigh more than the whole rig... without even getting into the 2-mans.
I rummaged around in my Mac's today and found some models I left off my earlier list:
Pro Mac 55
Super Mac 55A
Power Mac 310
Power Mac 320
Power Mac 330
Power Mac 340 (2)
Pro Mac 700
Bruce, I think McBob is The Man on the high-cc Mac's... tho Al Smith and some others know the racing end of the Mac's really well, too. Probably Wayne Sutton in Amboy WA has the most Mac's under one roof... unless the House-o-Saws or Bryce at cheapsteelparts has as many...
Mark, I'll rummage around in my Mac literature and see if I can find some sales flyers on that brushcutter.
:yourock:i have ipls for almost all the mac models if any of you ever need any
:yourock:
I'd appreciate an IPL on the MAC 110. I'm trying to fix my father-in-law's saw, it needs a new chain at the least. Thanks!
[email protected]
Thats a good price. I use Mini Macs all the time, here for limbing. Nice and light saws for that type of work. I cut up toI don't have any Mac saws but I have the chance to pick up a couple Mini Macs. I don't know much about them but thought they might be a fun project. Are thet worth getting? I know they're not very big saws but I can probably get them both for 50-60$
Apparently they both run if primed..
Thanks
:yourock:
I'd appreciate an IPL on the MAC 110. I'm trying to fix my father-in-law's saw, it needs a new chain at the least. Thanks!
[email protected]
If you have the number, and type of your Carburetor, you can get a replacement Carburetor Repair Kit, on the Buy It Now to match your Carburetor.No chance on any of yall having a carb for a Pro Mac 700 eh? I found one on fleabay, but I keep getting out bid. So needless to day, I don't want to take a hammer to my computer because I'm pissed.
How do you get to the carb on these saws? I have one and it needs a carb cleaning!
They probably call it Canadian, because McCulloch had a plant that built Chain Saws up here in Ontario, for a while. Mississauga to be exact. For a while the Mac 10-10 was called Light Weight for a while too. I asked another Member of As about the Mac 10-10 Light Weight, and he said it was an Advertisement thing. So that is what I think, what happened in this case with your Saw. Bruce.Especially for our Canadian friends on AS, I fixed up this little feller today.
It's quite a thrifty Mac I must say, but why thy called this model 'Canadian', is still a mystery to me ...oke: :hmm3grin2orange:
You have to remove the whole engine to get at the carburetor. You have ti remove all the bolts, even the filter, and the starter mechanisms, the both front and top handle. There is even a bolt inside the filter shroud that has to be removed.
The choke lever has to be removed, and without removing the spark plug, and turning in the needle valves, slide the whole engine out through the front of the saw.
There is a slot in the bottom of the saw, you might have to take a screw driver, and push up on the fuel, and bar oil tank.
Pay attention to how the bar oil pump is put together, because there is a "T" that comes out of the oil tank, that is between the pump, and the oil tank.
Bruce.
If I remember correctly, there was a Homelite Modle that came apart basisly the same way as the Mini Mac. That was when I was in High School, 20 some odd years ago. Don't hold me to that, it was a long time ago.That's indeed the way to do it. It looks complicated and a lot of work but actually it isn't really. Mine had a ton of oily sawdust in it so the engine did not come out easily. I also had to take out the idle screw otherwise the engine would not slide out. You also have to remove the coil and the flywheel to get the carb out. I have respect for the guy who engineered this saw...
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