McCulloch Chain Saws

[cpr]

Hey gang, wanted to check in quick. Trying to keep up, but the hours be few. 791R still won't run on it's own yet. Stabs at the shatback here and there. It'll come soon enough. Whoever got the Super 250 on feebay the other day, you suck . Wanted it, but couldn't convince myself to pull the trigger.

Tough to get time, can't believe it's mid-October and I've been cutting exactly 1 day. Better get some in, or it's going to be a cold winter, LOL.

Shop Monkey get the 790 done, Aaron make a 795 sing, Mark stay in the midwest and curate, Brian good luck on the 6 cuber, Lee I await the next karter, Ron I hope the 101 comes off, and Randy I miss the spider bites, hope the book is coming well.

Enough exhortations...

Good night.

 

[heimannm]

I'm trying Charles, I'm trying...

Mark

 

[rwoods]

CPR, I hestitate to cut up a good 125 handle/tank so until I find a handle/tank the kart is on hold. Ron

 

[Ambull]

CPR, I hestitate to cut up a good 125 handle/tank so until I find a handle/tank the kart is on hold. Ron

Ron, your inbox is full. Anyways, I have a crappy 125 tank that I would be glad to donate to your project. Hit me up.

JP

 

[Tomcurtis]

Thanks guys

I realy appreciate everyones comments. I will post some pics as soon as i figure out how lol.

 

[briantutt]

10-10 Auto

Joey sent me a "new" gasket for the auto-oiler. Put it in on Tues. night. Ran it Wed. night after filling it with bar oil. Started right up last night (no hydrolocking yet!) and I got the carb tuned pretty good (left it a bit rich for the new rings) however, now it seems like it doesn't auto-oil or manual oil... it did prior to the gasket install. Do I need to rip it apart again or should I just use it more?

I rebuilt a Johnny 590 and the auto-oiler wasn't doing much, after a few hours of cutting it started oiling like crazy.

 

[Warped5]

Joey sent me a "new" gasket for the auto-oiler. Put it in on Tues. night. Ran it Wed. night after filling it with bar oil. Started right up last night (no hydrolocking yet!) and I got the carb tuned pretty good (left it a bit rich for the new rings) however, now it seems like it doesn't auto-oil or manual oil... it did prior to the gasket install. Do I need to rip it apart again or should I just use it more?

Is there any way you can prime that pump a bit?

Worked very well when I had issues with my PM1000 a couple weeks ago. I'll have a 10-10A torn down a bit tonight and I'll take a look.

 

[briantutt]

Is there any way you can prime that pump a bit?

Worked very well when I had issues with my PM1000 a couple weeks ago. I'll have a 10-10A torm down a bit tonight and I'll take a look.

Good thought, you would think the manual oiler would just "work" if it's primed...

 

[heimannm]

There are two check valves in the system, one is just a disk (Item 48) that installs under the manual oil pump, the other is a spring and ball in the automatic oiler (Items 72, 73). Both valves must we working, and no ports blocked for the oilers to work properly.

Mark

 

[briantutt]

There are two check valves in the system, one is just a disk (Item 48) that installs under the manual oil pump, the other is a spring and ball in the automatic oiler (Items 72, 73). Both valves must we working, and no ports blocked for the oilers to work properly.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I know item 48 is present as I was in that area when rebuilding. I didn't take the pump apart but what seems wierd is when I first got the saw I pushed the manual oiler and it shot a stream of oil out the oiler hole so I know it used to work before I took the saw apart...

 

[Brian13]

Went out and gave the Super 250 and 10-10 some exercise this morning. I need to get a spring to go in the fuel line, it keeps kinking on me, but other than that it did well. The 10 series are really growing on me, seem to be pretty compact for their power. The Super 250 is definitely tied for my favorite with the 797. I am still amazed that it even runs. For sitting under my bench for quit awhile it fired right up and ran very well.

 

[heimannm]

Brian13 - There is just something wrong with a guy who poses his chainsaws...

Mark

 

[briantutt]

Brian13 - There is just something wrong with a guy who poses his chainsaws...

Mark

I agree!

 

[Warped5]

I agree!

..... but posting pictures of EBs, under ANY circumstances, is just plain wrong!

:yoyo:

 

[briantutt]

..... but posting pictures of EBs, under ANY circumstances, is just plain wrong!

:yoyo:

AND...advertising that you have EB parts in your siggy is expressly forbidden

 

[turtle561]

795 pawl rivet

the one on the left is loose

from behind you can see grind marks where old rivet was removed

i noticed one of the rivets was slightly loose, allowing the pawl to move sideways more than the other one. i thought this might lead to it riding up on the starter teeth and jam the starter, though it hasn't yet. i can't see a way to get the piece that holds the pawls off so i can peen the rivet down tight. it looks like this may have been done once to replace a spring. it looks like there is some brazing , kind of coppery around the hub. what is this?
is there any way to get this apart further to get a clear shot at the back of the rivet ?
the tight, original rivet looks to have a spun head, like on a chain.

 

[Warped5]

AND...advertising that you have EB parts in your siggy is expressly forbidden

..... sorta like a funeral director .... dealing with the carcasses.

The ones I have for sale are the 'old school' models (but you knew that). True story: I was given a running EB similar to yours on the left about 5 months ago. It just didn't feel right an I couldn't sell it through CL to save my life. I had about $12 invested in a B&C on it and threw it into a garage sale with a sign '$25 or Today's Special Deal' ... and a guy asked about it. He insisted on haggling and was stuck on $10, so I removed the B&C and gave it to him. :jester:

 

[briantutt]

..... sorta like a funeral director .... dealing with the carcasses.

The ones I have for sale are the 'old school' models (but you knew that. True story: I was given a running EB similar to yours on the left about 5 months ago. It just didn't feel right an I couldn't sell it through CL to save my life. I had about $12 invested in a B&C on it and threw it into a garage sale with a sign '$25 or Today's Special Deal' ... and a guy asked about it. He insisted on haggling and was stuck on $10, so I removed the B&C and gave it to him. :jester:

Funnier story abou that one on the left. I passed it up at a garage sale for $15 in a case with extra chains etc. only to drive over to my fathers later in the day and see it sitting outside his house, he bought it as a joke. I cleaned it up and made it run, compression is so low my 91 yr old grandma could easily pull it over :smile:

 

[Brian13]

Brian13 - There is just something wrong with a guy who poses his chainsaws...


Mark

There isnt anything wrong with me:msp_tongue:. Now if I put a nice bikini and model with them, then there might be something wrong with me.

 

[Deprime]

You have to be careful what saws you pose together though. The mini mac leaked bar oil all over itself when I took this one! :hmm3grin2orange:

On a serious note......

I have my 740 disassembled and am going to put it back together this week. I measured the bore and piston and everything is well within tolerance so I am just going with a new set of rings. My question is what should I set my ring end gap at. The info that I have gives a range of 0.004" to 0.012". I know that a tighter end gap will result in increased compression but what is a safe minimum gap? Is 0.004 ok or do you guys recommend a little more?