McCulloch Chain Saws

[watsonr]

I normally use .010-.012 .004 seems pretty tight.

 

[rwoods]

I took a PM800 and a SP125c down to the wood lot today to do a little cutting and get some exercise. Some of the guys talked like I was crazy for toting such a big saw but understood when I told them I was just trying to get back in shape for the season and for the bigger stuff to come. The 125 ran like a top with an 8 pin sprocket and a new Carleton .404 chisel, but not being used to the 32" bar I shortly stuck it in the gravel. I turned to the 800 but before I could make any real headway she just quit and wouldn't restart. I tried several times to fix the 125's rocked chain but I wasn't able to get it right. I failed to bring a 5/8" sparkplug wrench and no one else had one either so I just packed up and when home having cut only a few days worth of firewood. Neither NAPA or O'Rielly's had the right plug so I had to order some. My day wasn't entirely wasted as the rocked chain prompted me to install my new ABN grinding wheel from Bailey's and I sharpened my first chains with a grinder. It was quite the tool - cuts quick and cool. I sharpened three chains so I figure I have about 45 more to do before the ABN pays for itself - with another 60 to pay for the grinder. I also cleaned the 800's plug, got her going and I leaned it up a bit. Ron

 

[Brian13]

On a serious note......

I have my 740 disassembled and am going to put it back together this week. I measured the bore and piston and everything is well within tolerance so I am just going with a new set of rings. My question is what should I set my ring end gap at. The info that I have gives a range of 0.004" to 0.012". I know that a tighter end gap will result in increased compression but what is a safe minimum gap? Is 0.004 ok or do you guys recommend a little more?

A book I have somewhere said .004 for every inch of piston dia.. IIRC the 740 is 2.165ish, so I would use about .008-9ish. From what I understand not enough will cause problems from heat expansion, and too much you loose compression. Thats the rule of thumb I use.

 

[struggle]

I took a PM800 and a SP125c down to the wood lot today to do a little cutting and get some exercise. Some of the guys talked like I was crazy for toting such a big saw but understood when I told them I was just trying to get back in shape for the season and for the bigger stuff to come. The 125 ran like a top with an 8 pin sprocket and a new Carleton .404 chisel, but not being used to the 32" bar I shortly stuck it in the gravel. I turned to the 800 but before I could make any real headway she just quit and wouldn't restart. I tried several times to fix the 125's rocked chain but I wasn't able to get it right. I failed to bring a 5/8" sparkplug wrench and no one else had one either so I just packed up and when home having cut only a few days worth of firewood. Neither NAPA or O'Rielly's had the right plug so I had to order some. My day wasn't entirely wasted as the rocked chain prompted me to install my new ABN grinding wheel from Bailey's and I sharpened my first chains with a grinder. It was quite the tool - cuts quick and cool. I sharpened three chains so I figure I have about 45 more to do before the ABN pays for itself - with another 60 to pay for the grinder. I also cleaned the 800's plug, got her going and I leaned it up a bit. Ron

I ran a PM800 actually two of them that MoJim had at the GTG and I was impressed. I think he had a 37" on the one 800 and it seemed to have no issues eating wood with it and his other one was maybe a 28" bar and pulled really nice.

I have a 800 here that only has 110 psi that I hope to go through this winter. I can only hope it runs close to what the ones I ran. It is a really nice saw:msp_smile:

 

[rwoods]

I run 28" bars on most of my 800s. That might be why I stuck about 4" of the 125's bar in to the gravel. Anyway I think (but I don't know) that a muffler mod will wake these saws up a little more. I have one with a square hole in the muffler (it was there when I bought it) - that saw really screams and appears to have considerable more power than the others -one day I'll take it down and look to see if it has been ported. It isn't a noise preception as I can't tell any difference in sound with my earmuffs. Ron

 

[leeha]

the one on the left is loose

from behind you can see grind marks where old rivet was removed

i noticed one of the rivets was slightly loose, allowing the pawl to move sideways more than the other one. i thought this might lead to it riding up on the starter teeth and jam the starter, though it hasn't yet. i can't see a way to get the piece that holds the pawls off so i can peen the rivet down tight. it looks like this may have been done once to replace a spring. it looks like there is some brazing , kind of coppery around the hub. what is this?
is there any way to get this apart further to get a clear shot at the back of the rivet ?
the tight, original rivet looks to have a spun head, like on a chain.

You have to remove the shoes. Then you can use a punch
and hammer to peen the rivet a bit more so it's tight.



Lee

 

[joeymt33]

awhile back we were talking about a way to seal the gas tank on a 10 series saw. i was sealing a tank on an old 7-10 today and thought i'd take some photos.

wipe the saw with alcohol so the 3M will stick
View attachment 203084

then i take the 3M tape and cut it so its not so wide
View attachment 203085

here is the tape appied
View attachment 203086

i removed the backing
View attachment 203087

then i trimmed the excess
View attachment 203088

 

[joeymt33]

here is the leak test

Tank seal - YouTube

 

[joeymt33]

i've done this several times without seeing one leak. i like this better than some kind of glue or epoxy because it easy to dissasemble again. also, there is no wait time for this to set up. the little bit that hangs inside of the tank will swell up and fall off after a little use. when this has happened, it was always big pieces and nothing clogging the fuel filter.

 

[Warped5]

i've done this several times without seeing one leak. i like this better than some kind of glue or epoxy because it easy to dissasemble again. also, there is no wait time for this to set up. the little bit that hangs inside of the tank will swell up and fall off after a little use. when this has happened, it was always big pieces and nothing clogging the fuel filter.

Nice job showing how it's done!

Exactly what kind of 3M tape is that you used?

I'm going to be sealing one up today and would like to do the same. :msp_w00t:

 

[joeymt33]

The tape is an automotive emblem tape I believe. It was all that I found at the auto parts store


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[turtle561]

yeah, thanks lee. that's what i was afraid of, just hoping for a secret door.
i'll man up and get to it. hope the spring doesn't stretch out.

 

[turtle561]

unhooked the spring, doh!

the wascally wivet

punched and peened the thing tight.
back to the spring, this is going to be fun.
thanks for the shove lee.

 

[cowroy]

Would two promac 610 McCulloch chainsaws be worth $75? local craigslist ad and the guys dad bought two of them back in 1979 and has the bill of sale manuals and all.

 

[joeymt33]

Would two promac 610 McCulloch chainsaws be worth $75? local craigslist ad and the guys dad bought two of them back in 1979 and has the bill of sale manuals and all.

Do you need two? Of course you do! That does sound like a deal I'd jump on.


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[HeRoze]

The tape is an automotive emblem tape I believe. It was all that I found at the auto parts store


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?

Buy 3M Scotch-Mount™ Molding Tape 1/2" x 5 ft 03609 at Advance Auto Parts

 

[Warped5]

Thanks, HeRoze .... exactly what I bought.

 

[joeymt33]

?

Buy 3M Scotch-Mount™ Molding Tape 1/2" x 5 ft 03609 at Advance Auto Parts

That's the stuff


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[joeymt33]

Now I'm working on how to get around that 10-10 fuel line. I hate that fuel line. Everyone should note that I live in Alabama. That's my disclaimer for these redneck so called "fixes".


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[joeymt33]

Here is what I got so far.... I drilled a bolt to go through the tank. Then cut the line to a point so it could be inserted. I used fiber washers to seal around the bolt. Now I got to figure out how to get that line on the barb on the carburetor. I pulled the barb out, it actually come out pretty easy by prying behind the lip so I don't damage it. I will be taking ideas for something else to insert into the carb that will be small enough for the fuel line. Actually, I'll take any other idea other than a bolt through the tank since its an eye sore. This works for me though and doesn't leak. I can make this quicker and cheaper than buying a $15 dollar line.


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