McCulloch Chain Saws

[wudpirat]

MAC 15 Update

Had a chance to dig into my newest addition.
What was locking the engine was a Craftsman 3/8 drive 1/2" socket, it was stuck onto the flywheel magnet. In its travels it broke off two fins, not quite opposite each other. I don't plan on using the saw extensively, I have others,much lighter saws, It should run fine.
The big question is, How did it get in there in the first place ?
Removed the bar and chain. The bar is very rusty but the groves are in good shape, a little wire edge on the sides, will clean up ok.
Now how do I get the rust off the bar? I was thinking Naval Jelly, it worked on a rusted pair of pliers I had.
That nasty chain, with the big teeth, can be saved, no frozen links. It measures 0.808" between three links, so I,m thinking its a 404 or what we used to call a 7/16's
The carb is a Tilly HC, made in Toledo, Ohio. So you can quess how old it is, they moved to Ireland years ago. Wonder if parts re still available?
I haven't checked for spark but will after I get the mouse nest out from under the flywheel.
One thing I don't have to fix is the bar oiler, It works just fine.

Why? why am I fooling with this antique ? I have four other Macs, two Steels, three Makita/Dolmars and a Craftsman 50cc/20". I don't need another saw. I musta caught the CAD from hanging on this site. Yah that must be it. :msp_biggrin:


FREDM, The old wood pirate

 

[briantutt]

PM650 Oiler

I think I figured out why the PM650 isn't oiling. Gasket is gone where it's supposed to seal near the exit. There is also a small crack where the red circle is but I am not sure that matters. How does the adjuster work? It looks like it just adjusts the stroke of the piston maybe?

//www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208648&stc=1&d=1322324664

 

[Dennis Gauge]

Hey guys, quick question:

Any trick to getting the clutch off a ProMac 10-10?

The reverse-thread nut is off, but the clutch is on there tighter 'n an inappropriate Southern euphemism involving parts of the female anatomy.

I know the answer's somewhere in the 795 pages of this thread, but I ain't got that kind of time... I'd like to replace the rim sprocket and get it running again before I retire!

 

[wyk]

The old 250 has infected more people with Yellow Fever than the 10-10s.

This 250 is my testbed for carbs, it has the most compression of any 250s I have had.
It normally has a choke equipped Flatback in it. It is also a mix of parts, to my own specs.

Nice, mang. I am also eying a pro mac 850 in good condition. What would sumfin like that be worth? Are they good runners?

 

[RandyMac]

Nice, mang. I am also eying a pro mac 850 in good condition. What would sumfin like that be worth? Are they good runners?

they are crap, pay $25 and send it to Ron.

 

[Eccentric]

I believe DSP is MAC speak - Decompression Starting Port. Ron

they are crap, pay $25 and send it to Ron.

Pay $30 and send it to Aaron!:jester:

 

[wyk]

I take it an 850 in good condition is worth some beans then?

 

[8433jeff]

I take it an 850 in good condition is worth some beans then?

I'll go $37.50, and a Homelite bar. I do need an old Mac.

 

[rwoods]

they are crap, pay $25 and send it to Ron.

Thanks. I'll chip in the shipping. If it's primo, it's yours. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Bad day Good day

It has been one of those days of two steps forward and three back. I thought I would put in a few hours whittling down the log pile at the wood lot. Seeing Mark’s posts, I say what the heck I’ll take my PM700 (been a year or more since I’ve run her) and a PM800. As I was loading the Landcruiser, I remembered that a bucking spike bolt on the 800 was AWOL. It took me 30 minutes to find a replacement. I finally got to the woodlot and fired up the 700. :biggrin: Sweet – I had forgotten how easy it is to pull over with the DSP as compared to my non-DSP 800s. I had only cut a few links off a two foot oak when the yard boss asked me to save them for another day as someone had dropped off a gnarly load of 30”+ oak which was in the way and since I have the “big” saws he would appreciated it if I would take care of the new pile. So I swapped the 700 for the 800 and begin work on the new pile. Not only was the wood rough (looked to be from yard trees with the usual multi-forked trunks) but it was a tangled pile and looked to have been pushed through the mud with a bulldozer. It didn’t take long to dull the chain. I replaced with a new chain. I did a few bore cuts to try and stay out of the mud but I got a little too aggressive with not enough down pressure and managed to not only bend the bar adjustment screw but the flat nut as well. Of course, I didn’t have a wrench or pliers small enough to hold the retaining nut. I loaded up and went home and straighten everything with a vice. I reloaded with a 32” 125 and returned. I filleted a 40” long piece of a 30" trunk and cut a section off a 32” stem with the 125. As usual most everybody stops what they are doing to watch a 125 in action. :biggrin::biggrin: I don’t know how Michael sharpened my chain but it would just about pull the saw out of your hands – unfortunately it was done by the second cut. When I went to change it, I noticed there were no bar spacers and the bar plates were really taking a beating. :frown: So I just parked it as of course I didn’t have any spacers with me. As I was preparing to put the 800 back to work I noticed that the two screws that hold the rear shroud were missing. It was time to quit with only 1 ½ tanks used. I actually found myself pondering why do I bother with old saws and dirty wood.

Things will get better. I put the 700 to work this evening putting a fresh cut on this year’s Christmas tree. And today marks one year from my brush with death. So all in all I am thankful and I shouldn’t complain.
:smile2: Ron

 

[8433jeff]

Well, you did get to use them a little, and you didn't tear anything up beyond normal maintenance. And you remembered that, so you did have a good day, despite the amount of wood cut.

 

[rwoods]

Evening did get better. Put the Christmas tree up, sharpened 3 chains, put the bar spacers on the 125 and figured out another reason why folks swap out the SP125 muffler for the round ones - the chain snags on the rim of the box muffler but goes on/off easy as pie with the round muffler. Of course the port doesn't match the flange but at least on my directional round muffler a prior owner had filed the flange to make it a little closer to the oval port. I also ground two bars to take the edge off. Both bars are new McCulloch. I am a little disappointed that with very little use both were already developing an edge. Must not be very hard material. One had the ten series slot - machinist said he had no problem milling it to fit the 125 so I guess I should have expected the quick wear. Ron

 

[wyk]

Thanks. I'll chip in the shipping. If it's primo, it's yours. Ron

Wow, it's like talking to my Grand Pa back in the day. Getting answers was like pulling teeth. Only pulling teeth hurt a lot less and was faster and with less blood.

So now then, will a PM 850 have tradition port design? Or will she still have a dozen ports hiding in there?

 

[RandyMac]

That series is pissed-on ported, they are 10-10s on steroids.
One thing though, you can't just pop the muffler off to check condition, the dammed thing is on the bottom of the saw, partial field-stripping is needed.

 

[rwoods]

PM850s are very desirable saws but as Randy said you have to check them thoroughly as many are toast. They are 82cc hotrods. MAC was still recommending 32 to 1 mix for these and their offspring long after it had gone to 40 to 1 on all its other saws. eBay prices range from low $200s to $400. A primo will bring $500 but Randy is the only one who deserves a primo example. Carcasses have been bringing $200 on eBay. You can ocassionally find complete saws on CraigsList for under $100. A Super PM 850 (looks to be a rebadged PM800) is worth more to a collector as there aren't many around. The immediate predecessor to the 850 was the SP81 (I believe the cylinders are identical). There are many admirers of it and Stinkbait just listed a nice one on eBay for $275 - it apparently sold quick. If it is a runner - buy it. IME most out of the NW and SE have been used in production but you can find the ocassional limited use one. Ron

 

[Clarkbug]

Eager Beaver Question

Mornin' All.

I dont normally play with the yellow saws, but after a Thanksgiving visit this weekend, I came home with a "gift" from the grandfather-in-law. (Yep, note the quotes) He gave me an Eager Beaver 2.0 (Model 600123-12) that is in great shape, and runs fine. He told me that its only problem was that it "ran hot" which it didnt used to do before.

I have read all of the horror stories about trying to play with these things, since its a lot of stuff in a little space. My first thought is that perhaps its running lean, and I just need to open the screws up a bit to help.

Since this is a new thing for me to tinker with, anyone have any tips on where I should look first on this thing? Any help is much appreciated.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mornin' All.

I dont normally play with the yellow saws, but after a Thanksgiving visit this weekend, I came home with a "gift" from the grandfather-in-law. (Yep, note the quotes) He gave me an Eager Beaver 2.0 (Model 600123-12) that is in great shape, and runs fine. He told me that its only problem was that it "ran hot" which it didnt used to do before.

I have read all of the horror stories about trying to play with these things, since its a lot of stuff in a little space. My first thought is that perhaps its running lean, and I just need to open the screws up a bit to help.

Since this is a new thing for me to tinker with, anyone have any tips on where I should look first on this thing? Any help is much appreciated.

You might see how many turns out the screws already are. Turn the screws in and count how many turns until it is lightly seated then turn them out the same amount then add maybe 1/8 turn to it. In any case the screws should be out at least 1 turn. If they're not, that's why it's running warm.

 

[Clarkbug]

You might see how many turns out the screws already are. Turn the screws in and count how many turns until it is lightly seated then turn them out the same amount then add maybe 1/8 turn to it. In any case the screws should be out at least 1 turn. If they're not, that's why it's running warm.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I was curious how many turns are normal on these guys. I found an IPL online already, but thats not always the most helpful.

Hopefully today I can fire it up and report back.

 

[wyk]

That series is pissed-on ported, they are 10-10s on steroids.
One thing though, you can't just pop the muffler off to check condition, the dammed thing is on the bottom of the saw, partial field-stripping is needed.

Cool. I'll check it out. I like the looks of the 250s the most, but a working pm 850 looks like a good time.

 

[heimannm]

If you are looking for a saw that you can use, the PM850 or SP60 would be good first picks.

If you are looking for a saw that will really impress people, get the 7-10.

If you are looking for a saw that will scare people with the noise and weight, get the 250.

One big advantage to the 10 Series saws above (SP60, 7-10, PM850) is they all have automatic oilers, the 250 will be manual only. Unless you have some experience operating a saw with a manual oiler only, it takes a lot of getting used to.

Having put a little run time on the 82 cc 10 Series saws lately, I will say I am quite impressed. I have plenty of the large frame 80 cc saws, but they will only come off the shelf for GTG's, any work that need doing will be assigned to the PM800 or SP81; they just plain rip and the SP81 in particular sounds good doing it. The muffler on the PM800 is just too effective...

Mark