McCulloch Chain Saws

[briantutt]

no, I'm waiting for a new needle bearing from Baileys. I suppose it will be fairly obvious. I could just try it as the box suggests and if the rotor doesn't tighten up on the crank I would think it would simple not work. My only concern would be if it slips it might bugger up the shaft.

 

[briantutt]

Most likely not. Those kits are made for several different saws in many cases. They include the washers for each separate application. You may need only one, a combination or all of them. I don't have that particular model, so I can't be a lot of help. I try and match what the IPL shows or what comes off the saw. Unfortunately, what comes off the saw is more often than not, not how it left the factory.

Yeah, that's sort of what I am afraid of who knows if it was correct in the first place. The thickness of the OEM drum and the Oregon one are both exactly .512 maybe I should just do it like it came apart and if the drum spins freely then I should be good. If it scrapes I will put one washer between the rotor and the drum.

 

[Hangtown]

ashtray is toooo cool, and the matches, icing on the cake. great stuff man. thanks for sharing!!

 

[boda65]

Need some 1-72 parts

Hey all, this thread has sure been quiet lately. Anyways, thanks to inspiration from Mark, CPR and some others,I have finally plunged into my 1-72 and am suffering from mission creep. When I got the saw, I squirted some mix in the carb and it fired. I thought Cool! I'll just rebuild the tillotson and see how she runs! Then I made the mistake of checking compression. A dismal 95 lbs So, here I am tearing it all the way down and trying to track down 45+ year old parts. I haven't got the piston out yet, but what I can see through the ports looks OK. Hoping just a set of rings will do it.

I have seen sources named in various posts, I thought I compiled them all for when I needed them, but now am unable to locate the list. One was Bob's lawnmower repair? I think. I would appreciate names and numbers if anyone wishes to share.

Here are the remaining parts I need.
48691 piston rings
57870 seal
57784 seal

Here's a pic of the first thing I did. The muffler was rusty and pitted but I took it to work and bead blasted it, then took it back to my bud at the plater. It's not "chrome" but looks nice. It's some type of zinc chromate which is more of a dull silvery finish. I don't know if it will hold up to the heat or not. This muffler has a factory reversible muffler mod. I know it's a spark screen, but the holes are so stinkin' big you could throw a cat through them. The only sparks these holes would stop would be like a chunk of piston or some such.
Muffler with no mod:

Muffler Modded

Thanks to all for any help and also for the inspiration to finally get started on this
Jim

 

[sawbones]

1961

 

[stinkbait]

That's a neat muffler. You can swith from loud to extra loud.

 

[Urbicide]

I like the plating. Would be nice to have the capability to plate things like mounting hardware, saw dust guards, & handlebars. A lot of the vintage Mac bars I have acquired have been run through a bar shop at least once in their long life. The final step with those involves running the bar sides on a big sanding belt to clean & shine them up. This, unfortunately, removes a great deal of the protective plating that helps prevent the bars from rusting and also grinds away a lot of the detailed images that are stamped onto the sides. I have wondered if it would be feasible to try to re-cut the images with tools used for firearms engraving by following the shallow lines that are left. This should make the designs stand out. Re-plating the bar would make it look good & help restore some corrosion resistance.

Anyone have any good plating tips & web sites that you would recommend? I do know that chrome plating, for example, involves the use of any number of different forms of cyanide and you have to be extremely careful not to ingest it or else....It sure would permanently break fingernail biters of that habit.

 

[boda65]

1961

I love their use of the term "extra quiet". Thats using some poetic license in their advertising. I have never heard a running McCulloch of any model that I would even remotely call extra quiet

 

[terry2tmd]

Hey all, this thread has sure been quiet lately. Anyways, thanks to inspiration from Mark, CPR and some others,I have finally plunged into my 1-72 and am suffering from mission creep. When I got the saw, I squirted some mix in the carb and it fired. I thought Cool! I'll just rebuild the tillotson and see how she runs! Then I made the mistake of checking compression. A dismal 95 lbs So, here I am tearing it all the way down and trying to track down 45+ year old parts. I haven't got the piston out yet, but what I can see through the ports looks OK. Hoping just a set of rings will do it.

I have seen sources named in various posts, I thought I compiled them all for when I needed them, but now am unable to locate the list. One was Bob's lawnmower repair? I think. I would appreciate names and numbers if anyone wishes to share.

Here are the remaining parts I need.
48691 piston rings
57870 seal
57784 seal

Here's a pic of the first thing I did. The muffler was rusty and pitted but I took it to work and bead blasted it, then took it back to my bud at the plater. It's not "chrome" but looks nice. It's some type of zinc chromate which is more of a dull silvery finish. I don't know if it will hold up to the heat or not. This muffler has a factory reversible muffler mod. I know it's a spark screen, but the holes are so stinkin' big you could throw a cat through them. The only sparks these holes would stop would be like a chunk of piston or some such.
Muffler with no mod:

Muffler Modded

Thanks to all for any help and also for the inspiration to finally get started on this
Jim

That plating is cool, you'll have to give us the details on how it holds up, I am looking forward to seeing the saw when it's done. Maybe you could hook us up with a video of this badboy in action.

 

[boda65]

That plating is cool, you'll have to give us the details on how it holds up, I am looking forward to seeing the saw when it's done. Maybe you could hook us up with a video of this badboy in action.

I certainly hope to. I have to locate the parts I need first, then get it all put back together.

 

[lumberjackchef]

6-10 right handed starter question

Hopin someone on this thread might be able to tell me how the right hand style starter rope on the old 10 series saws is held in the rope housing. I'm helping a friend get his old macs running and totally disassembled the starter, cleaned all of the grime out of everything. It works great now but the rope is very old and I'd like to replace it too. Thing is, I couldn't tell how in the world that thing was held in the there. Any help would be much appreciated! That thing is a cutting machine with an 18" bar and a fresh sharp chain. Can't slow that thing down I Love these old macs!

 

[Urbicide]

There is a metal retaining ring which holds the dust shield in place on the inside of the clutch cover/recoil housing assembly. This ring fits into a groove that is located right below the opening in the cover, between the second bar stud and the clutch drum. It looks kind of like a piston ring. Carefully pry one end of the ring out and the rest will follow. Be careful when you remove the recoil spring so that it doesn't jump out and get you.

 

[lumberjackchef]

There is a metal retaining ring which holds the dust shield in place on the inside of the clutch cover/recoil housing assembly. This ring fits into a groove that is located right below the opening in the cover, between the second bar stud and the clutch drum. It looks kind of like a piston ring. Carefully pry one end of the ring out and the rest will follow. Be careful when you remove the recoil spring so that it doesn't jump out and get you.

Yeah I got that part figured out, pretty tricky. I cleaned all the crap out of there while I had the spring out. But how do you get the old rope out of the spindle. It looks like it goes into a hole in the spindle but I can't find any place where the other end comes out to get it loose, remove it, and replace it. Thanks for your response

 

[Urbicide]

Look for the mold lines on the outside of the pulley left from the casting process. Then look inside the pulley. The rope passes through a "lug" (for lack of a better term on my part) which is approximately 3/8" or 10mm in length. It then passes around the exterior core of the pulley to a smaller lug corresponding to the mold casting line on the opposite side of the pulley hub. The end of the rope is then secured once the rope has passed through the second lug. A nylon rope can be melted with a flame to increase its outside diameter so that the rope does not pull out.

 

[heimannm]

Sawbones, you have some really nice McCulloch promotional goods, please be sure to leave a little something for me in your will.

I haven't added any saws in this thread for a while, think I have a candidate now. This is another e-Bay saw, advertised as a 10-10 but I didn't think that was right so I bid it up a bit and was the winner.

The saw arrived last week and I posted photo's in another thread asking for I.D. help, CPR came through with what I believe to be the correct call as a CP70.

The bar arrived a few days later, but I was already on the road this week so today I was able to put it together and check it out.

The saw starts and runs reasonably well, and seems to be mostly complete. I need to find a new part for the chain tension adjuster, current one has been damaged and just barely catches the bar.

I like the 3/8" skip chain on this one, I haven't used skip chain much but I suppose if makes sense on this 70 cc saw with a 26" bar.

This saw has been run pretty hard, obvious looking at the cooling fins on the cylinder that the chain has come off at full speed a few times, missing paint, etc. On the other hand, this is my first saw in the CP Series, I do hope to find a few more including a CP 125 one of these days.

Mark

FYI Sawbones, this one came from Aberdeen, WA

 

[sawbones]

Sawbones, you have some really nice McCulloch promotional goods, please be sure to leave a little something for me in your will.


FYI Sawbones, this one came from Aberdeen, WA

you should get my widows email address, she will be glad to get rid of it, and me


I just talked to Ted a few days ago, great guy .

I used to live down there near aberdeen and hope to at least get back down there
this year for the logging show.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Look for the mold lines on the outside of the pulley left from the casting process. Then look inside the pulley. The rope passes through a "lug" (for lack of a better term on my part) which is approximately 3/8" or 10mm in length. It then passes around the exterior core of the pulley to a smaller lug corresponding to the mold casting line on the opposite side of the pulley hub. The end of the rope is then secured once the rope has passed through the second lug. A nylon rope can be melted with a flame to increase its outside diameter so that the rope does not pull out.

Thanks Urbicide. thats what I was looking for. So chances are since this thing has probably never been replaced it will be in there pretty darn good. I kinda dug around with my pick trying to figure it out. But the way you just explained it helps me to understand what it was I was seeing in there. Guess I'm gonna have to just keep diggin til I can it the old one out. So it goes into that hole and then internally wraps around the spindle? If thats the case it would explain why I coundn't see shznit in there. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Metals406]

I can't remember who was asking, but I believe these are all Mac handles???

 

[lawnmowertech37]

mark guess what ever heard of a mac part # 95631 ? or 95763 ?

95165 95166 88809 88806 93668 91967 216230 reason i ask is i have them

2 of the hdb-6b carbs and 2 of the hdb7b carbs

and now that google has put me in top place on mcculloch parts i dont know how long this stuff will last

also for those people that have a eager beaver super 16 100 series part # 216551 may be a eye shocker to know i have a complete unit

brand new in the package
yes these items i mentioned will be on the site

 

[lumberjackchef]

12-25A Two Man Saw

I've just scored a 12-25A two man from a buddy that supposedly runs but may need some parts to make it cut. He wasn't sure what might be missing but he said it had to do with a gear or something he thought. Gotta carve him a penguin and 50 bucks cash. I thought that was a reasonable enough deal even if I have to search for some parts for a while to get it to cut. Anybody have some experience with this particular model and know if there is an IPL or parts sources floating around out there anywhere. I would really like to take this one with me to the Mo GTG if it is really.