McCulloch Chain Saws

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Pulled this out of my soon to be, new storage shop. What exactly is it?
msyterymac002.jpg

msyterymac003.jpg
 
I picked one up just like it this week , not sure if i paid to much for it( $50 but it runs), and it helped me get the 056 for cheep the guy was selling also, Is yours running

Haven't really done anything with it except for pulling the muffler and checking the piston and cylinder. Might clean the carb and see what it will do tomorrow. Don't really need it, but had to give a little more than you did for it.
 
Picked up a nice piece of Mac Meat today.

I'm thinking I'm going to tear it down this week and try to get er going


Chris

Great score Dook. Don't see those too often. That model's on my 'list' for sure (and is one of the 'stars' of Sometimes a Great Notion). Replace the flywheel cover screws with the correct ones though, and keep the Homelite starter handle!:D
 
I've enjoyed using about all the Macs the last few years except I've never had one of the bigger ones like the 895 and others. I think I'm gonna make it a priority this summer to pick one of them up at the flea market and see how they do. I still see a few of them around but never had the desire to carry it from the flea market area to the truck (a half mile away or so).
 
I'm in the shop today working on the SP125C. It starts easy, oils good, compression will break your fingers off. Upper RPM power is great, but on the low end it wants to run away. It takes about two rounds out on the low needle to get it to settle it down. The intake boot is new, so now I guess I'm looking at pulling the motor to pressure test. I'll gladly take any tips since I've not pressure tested one of these yet. I'm calling the gurus out, thanks guys.
 
I'm in the shop today working on the SP125C. It starts easy, oils good, compression will break your fingers off. Upper RPM power is great, but on the low end it wants to run away. It takes about two rounds out on the low needle to get it to settle it down. The intake boot is new, so now I guess I'm looking at pulling the motor to pressure test. I'll gladly take any tips since I've not pressure tested one of these yet. I'm calling the gurus out, thanks guys.

Might be a good idea to pressure test it...it's sure old enough to need main seals.
 
I was hoping to get some pointers on block off plates, what pressure for how long, and is the seals the first place to look or somewhere else. Thanks
 
this is a pic of the flywheel side seal, it looks like the lip of the seal is on the inside.
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this pics shows the lip on the clutch side, it is facing outward
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my question is, is this correct?

is the lip on the inside letting the vacuum pull air into the crankcase? or does this seal even have a lip?

i pressure tested this seal and it leaks at 6-7 psi while the other didn't.
 
Are you sure your intake boot is seated correctly?
A saw that old i would skip the pressure test and
just replace all 3 seals. The seals in the pic's are
installed correctly. The PTO side is a double lip seal.
There are 2 seals on the mag side. Once you pull the
outer seal you will see another. The outer is just to
keep oil out of the points if the inner weeps a bit.
Your also so close to removing the side case, It might
be a good idea to remove and reseal it to the block.
You can also check that side crank bearing at the same
time.



Lee
 
Are you sure your intake boot is seated correctly?
A saw that old i would skip the pressure test and
just replace all 3 seals. The seals in the pic's are
installed correctly. The PTO side is a double lip seal.
There are 2 seals on the mag side. Once you pull the
outer seal you will see another. The outer is just to
keep oil out of the points if the inner weeps a bit.
Your also so close to removing the side case, It might
be a good idea to remove and reseal it to the block.
You can also check that side crank bearing at the same
time.



Lee

Yeah, that's a good thought. I might as well do it right one time. Thank you
 
Are you sure your intake boot is seated correctly?
A saw that old i would skip the pressure test and
just replace all 3 seals. The seals in the pic's are
installed correctly. The PTO side is a double lip seal.
There are 2 seals on the mag side. Once you pull the
outer seal you will see another. The outer is just to
keep oil out of the points if the inner weeps a bit.
Your also so close to removing the side case, It might
be a good idea to remove and reseal it to the block.
You can also check that side crank bearing at the same
time.



Lee

Now I remember those two seals from the time I rebuilt that SP105. Thanks for the reminder
 
New Mac addict

I've been following the chainsaw forum for about four months now. Here's my story.
I build bows, (archery), as a hobby. Last fall i decided to get ready for a wood, (yew), gathering up in the pacific northwest in the coming spring. Bought a used chainsaw, 036. I'll get to the Mac part, bear with me. I cut post and poles up in Seely Lake Montana about 22 years ago and we used the Stihls so that's how I decided on that. It was a lot of fun tearing it apart and cleaning it up so I thought I'd buy another big saw to work on. I was looking for a 070 and came across Mr Big Saw, (Sawbones). From him I purchased a 106 lightning. While researching that, I found this site. At first I thought I wanted one of all makes. I got a Poulan 306, then a Homelite 955, then a Mac 250. The 250 Mac was a beautifull piece of engineering. Really started reading all I could find on here about Mccullochs. Then got a Super 250, a 1-43, a 1-86 and just picked up a CP 125. I'll stick with the Mccullochs from now on. Here I was, trying to downsize so I could spend my retirement in Mexico, fishing, and I've picked up this habit of buying chainsaws :msp_confused:View attachment 225231
 
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