McCulloch Chain Saws

[HeRoze]

waiting on the blade (since the 16th). did some JB weld on the clutch cover and hit it with the rattle can. any advice on a jack-leg AF hold-down? That seems to be the only thing missing that I can't easily rig (other than some spikes).

View attachment 225883View attachment 225884

 

[Eccentric]

Are you using that early flatback that you posted pics of earlier? On that carb, it looked like there was a threaded plug (grub screw) in the AF stud hole on the carb. Can you rig a stud to replace that plug? Probably could use a length of all thread. Put some red locktite on it and thread it into the carb body. Then thread a thin nut down onto that (and torque it down with some red locktite). The stud should pass through the AF and AF cover. Secure it with a wingnut and a flat washer. You may be able to get a threaded knob that would work with the stud at your local hardware store. They often have a good selection. I'll see if I have a spare carb AF stud. If so, I'll send it to you. I've got a few flatbacks laying around that I could rob a stud from. I may also have a spare AF cover knob.

The factory AF stud has two different size/pitch threaded sections (with a thin hex head in the middle). What runs into the carb body is larger than the stud that passes through the AF and AF cover. The top part is 1/4-20 IIRC, and the part that threads into the carb is 5/16-18 or 5/16-24 (and REAL short) IIRC.

 

[watsonr]

I won't share a mug shot; I'll just leave it at Aaron could be my big little brother. I will share a Youtube video I stumbled upon today that I'll share to plant a seed with any here who have saws but nothing to cut. Maybe your community could use one of these. Please don't flame me for the kids running a splitter - I'm just a volunteer cutter there with the exclusive distinction of running big loud yellow saws. Ron

[video=youtube;AUd-9y5AZ3M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUd-9y5AZ3M[/video]

That really 's!

 

[HeRoze]

Are you using that early flatback that you posted pics of earlier? On that carb, it looked like there was a threaded plug (grub screw) in the AF stud hole on the carb. Can you rig a stud to replace that plug? Probably could use a length of all thread. Put some red locktite on it and thread it into the carb body. Then thread a thin nut down onto that (and torque it down with some red locktite). The stud should pass through the AF and AF cover. Secure it with a wingnut and a flat washer. You may be able to get a threaded knob that would work with the stud at your local hardware store. They often have a good selection. I'll see if I have a spare carb AF stud. If so, I'll send it to you. I've got a few flatbacks laying around that I could rob a stud from. I may also have a spare AF cover knob.

The factory AF stud has two different size/pitch threaded sections (with a thin hex head in the middle). What runs into the carb body is larger than the stud that passes through the AF and AF cover. The top part is 1/4-20 IIRC, and the part that threads into the carb is 5/16-18 or 5/16-24 (and REAL short) IIRC.

Yes, I'm using that old kart carb. it does have a threaded plug. I didn't think of adapting it to a post - - good idea. I looked at the 640 AF covers I have and the shaft is too long on those hold-downs. I'll check the diameter and thread pitch of the plug to see if it is a nice, standard threaded rod conversion to use a COTS knob.

 

[rwoods]

Cool stuff Brother Ron. Big/little in size/age? Are you in the video? No flames, but the kids on the splitter thing does creep me out some. Too much room for error and injury. Hopefuly they're well trained, conciencous, and well supervised.

I've been wanting to do something similar to the firewood mission that you're involved with through our church. My main wood hauling truck died last year, and I can only haul so much with the Ranger. There are guys with trailers, tractors and such. Just needs some time and organization. I have plenty of saws for my own cutting, and could let a few competent guys run some of mine. Most of the guys that are competent have their own saws already though. The majority of my saws don't have chainbrakes, and I only have a couple loops of safety chain. Not going to let some 'new guy' (especially the many teens that'd want to help out) run one of my old saws and get hurt...

I already have been giving my firewood to a few church familes that need it, plus the church/scout groups when they've gone camping. Since I moved to my current house, I haven't been able to burn wood at home. I just burn a bit when I go camping. I had a couple cords of wood left from the last house (my folks thought I was crazy for hauling that wood when I moved). It's about all gone now. Going to do some more cutting soon to replenish the supply. People still need it. We have stupid enviro regulations here that limit firewood burning (and instalation of wood stoves in homes.......which is why I'm outa luck for my own house as it only has an open fireplace). People that have wood burning as their ONLY source of heat are exempt however. Lots of folks in need still....

Big = size. I'm 6' 230# You appear to be stouter. Little = age. I'm about to turn 56.

The organization has grown and gotten more formal - I've seen those little boys wheel a lot of firewood but I've have not seen them run the splitters so it may be a thing of the past as almost all the serious injuries have been splitter related. There are a few of us that will fall trees but most of the wood is already down and just needs bucking. Much of the back breaking work is done by inmates on community service. Periodically, church or school groups come help - that is what you see in the unloading pictures - but most of the wood is actually delivered by 35 to 70 year old volunteers with some inmate assistance. It can be a busy place with 6 splitters running. Another organization, the local food bank, handles all the qualifications issues since as you can imagine that there are many who can afford to pay but want free firewood. I'm sure either one of the guys in the video would welcome any question you might have on how to get started. Ron

 

[Warped5]

I've been wanting to do something similar to the firewood mission that you're involved with through our church. My main wood hauling truck died last year, and I can only haul so much with the Ranger.

Need more hauling capacity with the Ranger? Answer: SuperSprings! You can find 'em for cheap on CL!

 

[Eccentric]

Big = size. I'm 6' 230# You appear to be stouter. Little = age. I'm about to turn 56.

The organization has grown and gotten more formal - I've seen those little boys wheel a lot of firewood but I've have not seen them run the splitters so it may be a thing of the past as almost all the serious injuries have been splitter related. There are a few of us that will fall trees but most of the wood is already down and just needs bucking. Much of the back breaking work is done by inmates on community service. Periodically, church or school groups come help - that is what you see in the unloading pictures - but most of the wood is actually delivered by 35 to 70 year old volunteers with some inmate assistance. It can be a busy place with 6 splitters running. Another organization, the local food bank, handles all the qualifications issues since as you can imagine that there are many who can afford to pay but want free firewood. I'm sure either one of the guys in the video would welcome any question you might have on how to get started. Ron

Thanks for the info Ron. I'll contact those guys with some questions.

I turn 39 in July, and am 5'07" 260+. "Stouter" is a nice way of putting it!

Short and stocky. I'm barrel chested, and need to loose some around the middle. When I was 23 and in shape, I was still 215#. The BMI charts at the Dr's office are a joke however. At my height, I'm "supposed" to be something like 140-160Lbs. At 3% body fat I MIGHT crack 170...

 

[Eccentric]

Need more hauling capacity with the Ranger? Answer: SuperSprings! You can find 'em for cheap on CL!

LOL. I've seen 'day laborers' driving clapped out old Rangers with about 3000 pounds of rock in the bed (heaped up to cab level). Springs (and add on helper springs) just about bottomed out. Tires squashed. A disaster waiting to happen. Sometimes I follow them for a while to see if their wheel bearings give out (or they break an axle shaft or blow a tire). I had 2000+ pounds of iron and steel truck parts (axles, transmisisons, cylinder heads, blocks, transfer cases, etc) in the bed of my F250HD when I moved years ago. Rode level, tires were fine, but felt like a Cadilac. The usual buckboard ride was gone. That truck has an 8800pound GVWR. Too bad the engine took a dump last spring.

My Ranger already has the optional higher payload capacity suspension. I'm not one to add springs to carry more load (than what it's rated for), especially on a truck with a semi-float axle. I'll pull a reasonably loaded trailer instead. What I really want to do is fix the F250HD. That'll be a while however. Then there's the Internationals. A Loadstar dump truck would figure nicely into my fleet and the wood program....

 

[rwoods]

Bar Adjusters

Kyle, how are the bar adjusters coming? Although you lose a little adjustment, here is what I had in mind - shown is a MAC380 adjuster nut. It is threaded 10-32 versus the stock 10-24 so I still need to find a strong machine screw than the common screw shown. The stock ten series nut shown has been straightened one too many times and it is now cracked. Ron

 

[promac850]

Ron, the bar adjusters got sidelined due to the Ranger needing new u-joints on the rear drive shaft. The Spicer 412-2 dust boot that keeps crap out of the centering ball is hard to find. Odd how a fairly critical 5 dollar part is nearly impossible to find.

I might try to get started on some bar adjusters today. It looks fairly easy... anyone want mild steel for the adjustment nut? Or are you guys just going to break the clutch cover by over tightening the adjuster? I can also make some out of 6061 aluminum, which should work pretty good as well.

Probably just jinxed myself... I said basically the same thing when I looked at the u-joints and drive shaft off of my truck... those OEM bastards took lots and lots of beating to get them out.

At least the Maxima is getting some exercise... waking the dead everywhere she goes.

 

[Eccentric]

Kyle, how are the bar adjusters coming? Although you lose a little adjustment, here is what I had in mind - shown is a MAC380 adjuster nut. It is threaded 10-32 versus the stock 10-24 so I still need to find a strong machine screw than the common screw shown. The stock ten series nut shown has been straightened one too many times and it is now cracked. Ron

Ron, the bar adjusters got sidelined due to the Ranger needing new u-joints on the rear drive shaft. The Spicer 412-2 dust boot that keeps crap out of the centering ball is hard to find. Odd how a fairly critical 5 dollar part is nearly impossible to find.

I might try to get started on some bar adjusters today. It looks fairly easy... anyone want mild steel for the adjustment nut? Or are you guys just going to break the clutch cover by over tightening the adjuster? I can also make some out of 6061 aluminum, which should work pretty good as well.

Probably just jinxed myself... I said basically the same thing when I looked at the u-joints and drive shaft off of my truck... those OEM bastards took lots and lots of beating to get them out.

At least the Maxima is getting some exercise... waking the dead everywhere she goes.

Go with steel for the adjuster nuts Kyle. Aluminum wouldn't keep people from breaking clutch covers. That happens when people crank down the bar nuts with the adjuster 'tit' not seated in the bar. That'd break the covers whether the adjuster was steel or alluminum methinks.

I like Ron's thoughts regarding the design. Something similar to the MAC380 ajuster nut would work great. You could make the body narrower (almost as narrow as the round 'tit' on that nut) and it'd still be worlds stronger than the stamped steel POS that we're saddled with now. We wouldn't loose so much adjustment range then. Thread it for #10-24 like the stocker. Get to it young man. Fix your Ranger and produce some stout 10-series adjuster nuts.

 

[promac850]

Go with steel for the adjuster nuts Kyle. Aluminum wouldn't keep people from breaking clutch covers. That happens when people crank down the bar nuts with the adjuster 'tit' not seated in the bar. That'd break the covers whether the adjuster was steel or alluminum methinks.

I like Ron's thoughts regarding the design. Something similar to the MAC380 ajuster nut would work great. You could make the body narrower (almost as narrow as the round 'tit' on that nut) and it'd still be worlds stronger than the stamped steel POS that we're saddled with now. We wouldn't loose so much adjustment range then. Thread it for #10-24 like the stocker. Get to it young man. Fix your Ranger and produce some stout 10-series adjuster nuts.

Aye! Currently sailing through the interweb sea to find some HD socket cap machine screws... someone, somewhere, has to have them in stock. I gonna find them.

Monday be the day where I call around for that annoyingly important dust boot... I gonna find one of them too...

Remember mates, keep them tits properly seated!

 

[Eccentric]

Fillister head screws would work fine too if you can't find socket head in that size.

 

[Brian13]

What is it with the saws that have the 2 man engines in them? I have seen saw king list another and he said the same thing again, that fallers had this done on purpose. What was the reason, were the 2 man blocks ported differently? Its still a 103cc block like the 790-795.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[rwoods]

Kyle, a good strong machine screw is important as well. Below is a picture of today's carnage. I used an adjusting nut from an older 10 series that was a little stouter. So I mangled the stock screw instead.

For those wondering why/how do I keep doing this - two ways: bore cuts and cutting tangled messes. Today's casualty was from bucking downed "tornado" trees; a giant pick up sticks game.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

Ron, I am going to have to come cut with you some day. From the luck you seem to have (all bad) I figure I would have a pretty good day.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Kyle, I forgot to add - don't waste your time with aluminum. As Aaron stated steel is the only way to go. I believe you can make the tab a little longer than stock (as there should be a relief in the mount) and if you do then you can sharpen the tab to make it easier to hit the bar hole. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Ron, I am going to have to come cut with you some day. From the luck you seem to have (all bad) I figure I would have a pretty good day.

Mark

That would be great. I am sure I would learn a thing or two. As to bad luck - that is what spares are for. Ron

 

[HeRoze]

Aye! Currently sailing through the interweb sea to find some HD socket cap machine screws... someone, somewhere, has to have them in stock. I gonna find them.

Monday be the day where I call around for that annoyingly important dust boot... I gonna find one of them too...

Remember mates, keep them tits properly seated!

what is HD? you talking grade 8?

 

[Warped5]

Marlin Perkins here ... that's a common sparrow, not a tit(mouse) ....