HeRoze
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These are the wraps, the half wraps will replace them.
... and there is the template for some dogs. cool.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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... and there is the template for some dogs. cool.
HeRoze
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that is a beast - - I think my testosterone went up a couple of clicks just looking at the pics.
paccity - 161 cc of brute force. The starter has an odd spring type overrunning clutch to avoid problems if it kicks back when shutting down, but I find them a nuisance when trying to start the saw, particularly if it leaks a little oil into the starter.
Mark
Mark
This is one of my latest projects. I didn't have to do much to it but put in a new air filter and rebuild the battery pack. The filter was oily and plugged so the dufus owner cut some "windows" out of the felt so it could breath through the wire screen. The original Nicad cells were rated at 1 amp/hr and I replaced them with 2.1 amp/hr batteries so it really spins over. The saw doesn't seem to charge, I haven't had time to do any trouble shooting to see if it's the resistor or voltage regulator. It will start many times on a single charge so it's not a real high priority right now. If it's the voltage regulator, it's going to be like hen's teeth to find. Thanks to Mark H for the electric start shop manual! 
Jim
Jim
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I have a motor for one of those if you need something.
Thanks for the offer Randy. I may need the resistor if it's bad, the voltage regulator is built into the start/stop switch. Looks like that could be missing on yours. I'll post a video of it starting a little bit later.
Jim
Jim
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
Been spending some time working on a CP70 I picked up last weekend.
There were a few issues that I have found with it, some were fixed and some waiting to be fixed. First off, the intake boot was completely fried, which someone tried to JB Weld it back together, causing the epoxy to run down into the intake block. This needed cleaned up.
The intake boot in the IPL was listed as Part Number 69647. I took a chance on part number 213987/215247 and it was successful. The boot was a direct bolt on, although the lower part of the boot in the IPL shows no "flanges" in the IPL. It mated up to all mounting surfaces just fine.
The crankcase had certainly been apart on this saw previously, and was resealed with orange silicone sealant. In a way I was glad for this, because I found a few little bits of the epoxy down in the crackcase and transfers.
This is a thin ring/domed piston saw. It seems to make good power although I certainly do not have it tuned in right just yet.
Anti-vibe is on par with other macs of this variety, such as the SP80, SP81, PM800, 805 and 850.
Although the motor is supposedly very similar to other 4.3 cubic inch Macs the muffler that is on it produces a much different sound, which is somewhat more similar to my J-red 49sp, as opposed to other 4.3 cubic inch Macs that I have. I think I'm going to try and find a way to remedy this, as I prefer the loud, ear piercing sound.
It seemed to produce good torque, but I have not had the thing in ideal conditions, just a quick couple of passes at some spruce I had laying out there in the pile. More to come, for sure.
It has a few small issues that need sorted out including the kill switch, and some hardware issues.
And a Video that can be seen by clocking the following link....
905faffb.mp4 video by Thieroff1 - Photobucket
There were a few issues that I have found with it, some were fixed and some waiting to be fixed. First off, the intake boot was completely fried, which someone tried to JB Weld it back together, causing the epoxy to run down into the intake block. This needed cleaned up.
The intake boot in the IPL was listed as Part Number 69647. I took a chance on part number 213987/215247 and it was successful. The boot was a direct bolt on, although the lower part of the boot in the IPL shows no "flanges" in the IPL. It mated up to all mounting surfaces just fine.
The crankcase had certainly been apart on this saw previously, and was resealed with orange silicone sealant. In a way I was glad for this, because I found a few little bits of the epoxy down in the crackcase and transfers.
This is a thin ring/domed piston saw. It seems to make good power although I certainly do not have it tuned in right just yet.
Anti-vibe is on par with other macs of this variety, such as the SP80, SP81, PM800, 805 and 850.
Although the motor is supposedly very similar to other 4.3 cubic inch Macs the muffler that is on it produces a much different sound, which is somewhat more similar to my J-red 49sp, as opposed to other 4.3 cubic inch Macs that I have. I think I'm going to try and find a way to remedy this, as I prefer the loud, ear piercing sound.
It seemed to produce good torque, but I have not had the thing in ideal conditions, just a quick couple of passes at some spruce I had laying out there in the pile. More to come, for sure.
It has a few small issues that need sorted out including the kill switch, and some hardware issues.
And a Video that can be seen by clocking the following link....
905faffb.mp4 video by Thieroff1 - Photobucket
watsonr
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Is it dull? Does it 4-stroke out of the cut? Is that the right bar, maybe it needs the spacer for the bar plates? That saw sounds like its bogged down before you even cut anything, especially in the last few seconds of the video when your bliping the throttle. Not making the RMP is should be, that was painfully slow on that last cut and it was Alder. Right about the 1:00 mark, you even look at the saw like somethings wrong.
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
Randy,
Of course it's the right bar! I hadn't even really tuned the saw before I took it out, just the basic settings for the carb as I only had a short time to tinker with it today.
That was the first time I put it under any load whatsoever, and I had the chain a hair too tight on it, as well as the rakers needing tuned up.
It was spruce in the video, and on the first cut it pulled fine, although you can't see it in the video I was fighting a bad angle and tight working quarters. For most of the last part of that cut I was not even getting enough wood to it to put a load on it.
That was a spruce round was only about 18" and has been setting the better part of a year, was kind of squirrley.
It was 4 stroking out of the cut, although still seems a tad rich, as you can hear it loading up.
Chris
watsonr
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I say that because it looked like you were struggling with it, close quarters and an angled cut will do it for sure. Watching again I can see it was angled. I'm watching because i have a CP70 I'm about to dig into. Thanks for posting the video!
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
I was kind of ticked off about the way the video turned out, but the conditions surely didn't make it right for the video.
That's the first time this chainsaw has been run in probably the better part of 20 years.
You will be pleased with it, I am pleased with mine so far. I just have a few small things I'll be needing to work out.
Chris
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Hiya Dook. Couldn't view your video earlier when you sent it to me in a PM. Tried both IE and Google Chrome. No dice. Just tried again with Chrome again and it worked. Strange...
High side sounds tuned right to me (as much as I can hear on the video). It just drops back to 4-stroking every now and then when you let up a bit in the cut. Chain doesn't look so great, and something still sounds very wrong with the saw. Bogs a lot when you hit the throttle. L side may be a bit lean. Also sounds like there's something bunged up in the muffler. Plugged screen maybe. Did you check/decarbon the exhaust port (and muffler inlet) while you had it apart?
Pull the muffler reed and see if it runs better. Retune it afterwards though. That'll make it louder for you! Somebody (Bryan P I think) has a 7-10 muffler up on feebay right now. See if he'll sell you one. He has a Homie 360 too. I know you were lookin' for one of those....
Last edited:
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
This is one of my latest projects. I didn't have to do much to it but put in a new air filter and rebuild the battery pack. The filter was oily and plugged so the dufus owner cut some "windows" out of the felt so it could breath through the wire screen. The original Nicad cells were rated at 1 amp/hr and I replaced them with 2.1 amp/hr batteries so it really spins over. The saw doesn't seem to charge, I haven't had time to do any trouble shooting to see if it's the resistor or voltage regulator. It will start many times on a single charge so it's not a real high priority right now. If it's the voltage regulator, it's going to be like hen's teeth to find. Thanks to Mark H for the electric start shop manual!
Jim
WOW! i've never seen one of those 10-10E models. i've been searching for one but never even see a pic. congrats. it looks great.
Duke, per chance do you have a picture of the domed piston? Just curious. Ron
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
that 10-10E looks good, i'm jealous. here is my 3-10E, its not as good of a video as yours though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ywXU5-4KR0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ywXU5-4KR0
...and finally two macs I picked up this week from a neighbor. I was at his house for another reason, and I took the 10-10E over because I thought he would enjoy it. He restores old Oliver tractors and Willys Jeeps and just generally enjoys old machinery. After discovering that I collect old Macs, he said "I have several in a shed out back, let's go look at them." I ended up getting these two from him.
The D44 is well used, but in good condition. Had a good air filter on it and a clean air box. It took about 10 prime and fires until it took off and ran on it's own. It seems to run pretty good and idles well. I'm surprised it didn't need the carb gone through. It started cold on the third pull today. I took a test cut, it wasn't a record setter, but it has .404 chipper chain that I didn't even touch up with a file.
Here is my primer. It's a turkey basting syringe. I had to cut the tip off with a dremel because it was made to shoot the marinade out sideways from the needle tip. It works great, just pop the fuel cap and draw some out, and squirt it in the carb. Especially usefull on those pesky "hats" over the carb on the 10 series, you can squirt it right in there without spilling a drop.
Here is the 4-30 I got from him. It ran at first and sounded pretty good. The kill knob on the flywheel cover wouldn't pull out so I gave it a shot of wd-40 and it works freely now. The next time I started it, it would fire erratically and not stay running. WD-40 is dielectric so it shouldn't cause trouble with the spark, I don't know why it did that. Maybe the knob is shorting out to the cover. I'll have to sort it out later.
Jim
The D44 is well used, but in good condition. Had a good air filter on it and a clean air box. It took about 10 prime and fires until it took off and ran on it's own. It seems to run pretty good and idles well. I'm surprised it didn't need the carb gone through. It started cold on the third pull today. I took a test cut, it wasn't a record setter, but it has .404 chipper chain that I didn't even touch up with a file.
Here is my primer. It's a turkey basting syringe. I had to cut the tip off with a dremel because it was made to shoot the marinade out sideways from the needle tip. It works great, just pop the fuel cap and draw some out, and squirt it in the carb. Especially usefull on those pesky "hats" over the carb on the 10 series, you can squirt it right in there without spilling a drop.
Here is the 4-30 I got from him. It ran at first and sounded pretty good. The kill knob on the flywheel cover wouldn't pull out so I gave it a shot of wd-40 and it works freely now. The next time I started it, it would fire erratically and not stay running. WD-40 is dielectric so it shouldn't cause trouble with the spark, I don't know why it did that. Maybe the knob is shorting out to the cover. I'll have to sort it out later.
Jim
[video=youtube;5ywXU5-4KR0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ywXU5-4KR0[/video]
That looks pretty good to me. I notice it starts very quickly. Mine was cold in the video, but even warm it cranks more than yours did before firing. That was the first video taken with my wife's new camera. Just a cheap one, but a huge leap ahead of the one we had.
Jim
watsonr
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It fired and ran good because it had real gas in it instead of that ethanol crap we run now! The good old stuff doesn't eat carb parts either. Nice old saws and a hoot to run..... for a few minutes anyway.... until your ears bleed and your arms go numb from vibration!
stinkbait
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Does anyone have a full wrap handle bar that will fit my 650 gear drive? It's not the same as the ones that you see on a super 250 or a 1-50 series saw. The handle on the 650 & 660 gear drive is wider to clear the extra wide clutch cover.
