McCulloch Chain Saws

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The 1-43 decked out with full wraps, five tooth dogs. I may put the original parts back on and sell or trade it.
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mac1-43-1.jpg
 
How do you sleep at night?? LOL just kidding. I guess I'll have to spend more time at the garage sales this summer. They always have a huge one in late summer. US 127 and Lincoln Highway both have a hundreds of miles long garage sale. I happen to live near where they cross, you can spend days garage saleing.
It's my neighbors that have trouble sleeping..especially when I fire it up! You know, some people don't know these old saws are worth anything, they just want them out of the way.
 
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Lil Possum, I would not run the saw very long or hard without the spark plug cover in place as you will lose a lot of the cooling air that would otherwise pass over the cylinder.

Replacement parts can be found, I know Randy in Ohio (Duncan's?) has them available, not cheap but good replacement parts.

Mark

Thanks Mark.
Ill look. Seems that I will need 3 of them. I am looking forward to getting them running

What makes the Promac 700 desirable, I seen one the other day but left it because it seemed smaller.
 
Do any of you have a MAC 4-30? I just got mine up and running and there are no spikes on it and it would be a huge help when using it. If anybody has one would you be willing to take you spikes off and trace them on paper and send it to me to use as a template? Thanks!
 
Do any of you have a MAC 4-30? I just got mine up and running and there are no spikes on it and it would be a huge help when using it. If anybody has one would you be willing to take you spikes off and trace them on paper and send it to me to use as a template? Thanks!


PM me with an e-mail address and I should be able to help you out.

Mark
 
Try not to make that mistake too many times. I have 4 of the 70cc macs like that. I'll let you run them at the heritage festival. Then you'll be picking them up every time that you see one.

Thanks Mitchell. Ill get back over there ASAP. I gave 20$ a piece for the 1-43 and 250. So hopefully the 700 will be cheaper. He also had a model 15 but wanted 50$ for it, and Dean advised me they are a little more difficult to work on being gravity fed.
 
Thanks Mitchell. Ill get back over there ASAP. I gave 20$ a piece for the 1-43 and 250. So hopefully the 700 will be cheaper. He also had a model 15 but wanted 50$ for it, and Dean advised me they are a little more difficult to work on being gravity fed.

If he has an excess of 700s I'd be glad to take one of his hands!
 
If anything, the Mac 15 is easier to work on due to the fact it is gravity feed from the fuel tank to the carburetor, no complicated fuel lines and no fuel pump in the carburetor. The oiler is mostly external as well and does not require a lot of disassembly of the saw to work on. I think all of the ones I have use the Tillotson HC carburetor, which is basically an HL without the fuel pump so parts are readily available.

The Mac 15 is a very basic model with no anti-vibration, the fact that it looks different from other McCulloch models makes some believe it is a special or unique machine. Sort of like the e-bay sellers that call their 35's "rare".

Mark
 
McCulloch 1010 Leaking gas

My McCulloch 1010 is leaking gas into the airbox, I just installed a new tank cork gasket. It does not appear to be coming from the tank or fuel line. Could it be leaking from the carb and if so what measures need to be taken to fix this old brute.?
 
If anything, the Mac 15 is easier to work on due to the fact it is gravity feed from the fuel tank to the carburetor, no complicated fuel lines and no fuel pump in the carburetor. The oiler is mostly external as well and does not require a lot of disassembly of the saw to work on. I think all of the ones I have use the Tillotson HC carburetor, which is basically an HL without the fuel pump so parts are readily available.

The Mac 15 is a very basic model with no anti-vibration, the fact that it looks different from other McCulloch models makes some believe it is a special or unique machine. Sort of like the e-bay sellers that call their 35's "rare".

Mark
Thanks again Mark, I misread Deans information.
I hope to pick it up, just for CADs sake. Looked complete, and figure the b/c is worth what they want for them
I have a rare 33 and 35 :D
 
Devil Beaver 2.0 HELP!

I hope someone on here can help me before I rip my hair out...:chainsaw:

I am trying to put the engine/fuel tank assembly back in my Eager Beaver 2.0 to see if runs now with the new coil. The problem is I cannot get the wire between the plastic trigger and the carb snapped onto the plastic trigger to save my life. Right now the engine is bolted into the cast case and the fuel tank is nicely in place. I have the plastic trigger completey loose trying to fish the carb wire up through the slot in the casting and snap it in the groove on the trigger. After about 30 trys I am going crazy.

Someone on here MUST know how to deal with this.

Brian
 
Devil Beaver 2.0

Well AS is better than I thought. I typed up my problem, when to the garage and nailed it on the first try...

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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I dug my very first saw out of my parents basement. Eager Beaver 2.0 w/14 inch bar. I bought this as a gift to my Dad when I was 12 (21 years ago) but I used it for only one season for fire wood. Being young and dumb, I over tightened the bar nut what the was really hot, breaking it not at the nut end but some where by the bolt end. So I retired it. Living in New England, a chain saw is almost as important as winter salt for the driveway in January.
Nov 09 I was thinking about this saw and pulled it out it still had fuel and bar oil in it. Remember I said I was 12. I dumped the varnish out of the gas tank, cleaned the plug, added fresh gas, and with in 15 pulls it fired right up! The bar bolt and nut had some how fused making it very well bonded to the saw body. (Slap hand to forehead) "Oh it has a chain tensioner screw" I adjusted it and the saw was good to go. Then... I broke the tensioner screw after some use. Easy, take the clutch cover off, well not so easy, the bar bold is fused so that wont work. Short story long, I was fixing a computer for my dads friend, who I find out runs his own small engine repair shop. So in trade for some computer parts and 4 hours of my time, he has agreed to fix the saw. This saws engine has too much life left in it to chuck it. It has sentimental value, repairing it and giving back to Dad would make me feel proud, fixing my mistake from 21 years ago. I have bought and replace several saws for my Dad throughout the years, but this was the first one in the saga!
Thanks,
Chris :cheers:
 
Thats wonderful news brian

WAS wonderful news...I forgot to put the "lever/handguard" back on because I didn't put it on at first. I broke the stupid thing where it swivels, dropped the saw and broke the spark plug...

Need lever 92479 now...

DARN IT :chainsaw:

oh yeah, and cut my hand in three places!
 
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WAS wonderful news...I forgot to put the "lever/handguard" back on because I didn't put it on at first. I broke the stupid thing where it swivels, dropped the saw and broke the spark plug...

Need lever 92479 now...

DARN IT :chainsaw:

oh yeah, and cut my hand in three places!

I may wait now until next winter to get my Eager Beaver going..gives me something to do inside while it's snowing. I have to work on lawn mowers now.
Mine needs a carb kit and maybe a fuel filter.
 
I hope someone on here can help me before I rip my hair out...:chainsaw:

I am trying to put the engine/fuel tank assembly back in my Eager Beaver 2.0 to see if runs now with the new coil. The problem is I cannot get the wire between the plastic trigger and the carb snapped onto the plastic trigger to save my life. Right now the engine is bolted into the cast case and the fuel tank is nicely in place. I have the plastic trigger completey loose trying to fish the carb wire up through the slot in the casting and snap it in the groove on the trigger. After about 30 trys I am going crazy.

Someone on here MUST know how to deal with this.

Brian

A good set of needle nosed pliers are what I use to install it.
 

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