McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

Well, you certainly went all out on the bar and chain, good enterprise! Make sure the chain and your sprocket are the same pitch, I know that e-bay seller was promoting 3/8" chains with the bars and your saw likely had a .404 sprocket on it.

Looking at the photo there are three screw on the left side of the carburetor, the two lower ones perpendicular to the body of the carburetor and the H and L adjustments, bottom one is L, upper one is H. Above those two screws at a angle into the body of the carburetor is the idle speed adjust screw. Start there by backing it out just a bit (once the saw is thoroughly warmed up) to see if you can bring the idle speed down to where the chain stops moving.

It is also possible that the clutch springs are worn or the bushing/bearing are hanging up causing the chain to turn. The clutch can be found at customchainsawparts (e-bay seller), he may have a used clutch drum as well other wise you will have to do a little searching, again e-bay can be very helpful here. In the mean time, try removing the clutch and adding a dab of grease to the bearing to see if that helps.

Mark

 

[Toolslinger]

Yep, the chain is .404, .063. Bar is .063 as well, and happily the same length as the one I had, which works out as the saw balances nicely in this configuration for me. I don't think the drum bearing is hanging. It feels right based on the other clutches I've dealt with in the past. I was actually going to pull the clutch, and clean/grease the bearing. When I looked at that, it appears I need a spanner to hold the clutch while turning the nut, and I didn't have the right one. Some day I'm going to get one of those adjustable pin spanners, and call it a day... I suppose the clutch springs could be tired, but it does sound a bit fast at idle. I'm going to start there and just go slow, and see if I can get it in a happy place without screwing anything up. Damn thing starts better than any other machine I have...

 

[promac850]

That 795 sure looks good...


Regarding bars and chains, which one should I get? I was thinking the 37" black and yellow hard nose...

I got the oil tank put back on, and there is a thin layer 1194 on both sides of the gasket. I'll be checking on it after a letting it cure some more to see if it leaks oil again or not. We'll see...

 

[homelitejim]

found a yellow saw today, paid $5 for it as the guy behind the counter felt sorry for me, this bad boy is smashed, but I think the case and P&C are going to live to see another day, on the bottom of the case is stamped 1-80, 87cc of mac power, just so happens I have a complete 250 that is seized up tight, might be time to make it a franken super. Oh yeah it is free and has quite a bit of compression, once I find out how to remove the smashed muffler I will get a peek at the piston.

 

[rwoods]

Oiler - Ten Series

I replaced the oiler seal in my PM800 today as it was sucking oil. The new one leaks as well. The saw will only hold a vacuum for a second or so (I can hear the air drawing in through the oiler and I can also send a bubble through the oil when I put a little pressure to it. Just like every other oiler seal I have replaced the old one is as hard as a brick and the new one is as well. Are the new ones meant to be hard or are they supposed to be soft and/or flexible? Ron

 

[rwoods]

Brian - There is one screw holding the "top" of the pulse operated oil pump in place, and should be a metal retainer that springs in place at the bottom to hold it securely. It could be that the gasket/seal is bad (they are rather hard so don't be alarmed that it seems stiff) or just that the clip was not installed properly and let the bottom of the oil pump come loose.

Mark

Okay so they are little bricks. This particular saw has the single spring arm that screws to the adjuster. Maybe I need to swap in the wide spring clip (which is a much bigger pain to install). Any other thoughts? Ron

 

[joeymt33]

I replaced the oiler seal in my PM800 today as it was sucking oil. The new one leaks as well. The saw will only hold a vacuum for a second or so (I can hear the air drawing in through the oiler and I can also send a bubble through the oil when I put a little pressure to it. Just like every other oiler seal I have replaced the old one is as hard as a brick and the new one is as well. Are the new ones meant to be hard or are they supposed to be soft and/or flexible? Ron

can the oiler fail and cause this problem? if you need a gasket or a oiler, let me know.

another idea, cut your own gasket from some new stock that will still be soft.

Joey

 

[Warped5]

Okay so they are little bricks. This particular saw has the single spring arm that screws to the adjuster. Maybe I need to swap in the wide spring clip (which is a much bigger pain to install). Any other thoughts? Ron

Ron - Mac had an oiler kit (#215246) that has in it the spring 'brace' as well as a new gasket and a couple of fresh rivets (?).

I have one of these kits in my small inventory ... I looked at it and the gasket is quite thick and hard as a rock.

 

[RandyMac]

Excess kart parts.

 

[rwoods]

can the oiler fail and cause this problem? if you need a gasket or a oiler, let me know.

another idea, cut your own gasket from some new stock that will still be soft.

Joey

Ron - Mac had an oiler kit (#215246) that has in it the spring 'brace' as well as a new gasket and a couple of fresh rivets (?).

I have one of these kits in my small inventory ... I looked at it and the gasket is quite thick and hard as a rock.

Thanks, guys. I went through my IPLs - it looks that the SP81, PM850 and newer SP70s used just the one screw. The early SP70 had the same set up as this PM800 (which means somebody surely swapped it out). The newer saws have the flat spring clip. Apparently MAC was aware of the problem and the flat spring clip was the fix. Must be some reason that they didn't change the seal composition. I'll just buy a kit. As a side note the oiler is an old design and on some saws it was attached with 4 screws and some with a single screw and a special set screw - per the instruction sheet included with the seal. I thought of drilling for back screws but the holes would come out in a bad place on the crankcase. Ron

 

[Toolslinger]

Is there a list of the various models/numbers and how they compare?... I can read the posts, but I haven't got the foggiest damn idea what the saws you guys are discussing are... It'd be nice to at least be able to compare them mentally against my 795, or some of the smaller non McCulloch saws I do have my head wrapped around... It seems like they went through a whole lot of model number systems...

 

[promac850]

Is there a list of the various models/numbers and how they compare?... I can read the posts, but I haven't got the foggiest damn idea what the saws you guys are discussing are... It'd be nice to at least be able to compare them mentally against my 795, or some of the smaller non McCulloch saws I do have my head wrapped around... It seems like they went through a whole lot of model number systems...

Here is a Pro Mac 850... it's the 82cc version of the 10-10...

Here is a Pro Mac 700... 70cc version of the 10-10... (10 series)

Here is a 250, this goes with the front fuel tank saws, like the 1-43, 1-45, Super 250, etc.

Here is the 790, same basic thing as your 795... minor differences. Big Macs in the 700-800 series, and the 1-76 and similar saws. Gear drive boxes add a bit up front for the gear drive models like the 890, 1-86, etc.

And here is the 610, known as the cinder block... 605/610/650/Timber Bear 3.7, etc are in this saw design. Often referred to as the 600 series.

 

[promac850]

And Acre's site helps most of the time. Doesn't ever seem to get updated though.

acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/GasbyManufacturer?OpenView

 

[rwoods]

... The early SP70 had the same set up as this PM800 (which means somebody surely swapped it out). ... I thought of drilling for back screws but the holes would come out in a bad place on the crankcase. Ron

You would think that I would know by now that MAC apparently used whatever was handy. I discovered a second PM800 of mine has the single spring arm. I also discovered that the oiler's back two holes are threaded 8/32. I have a spare crankcase so I'm am going to attempt to drill the case for the back two holes and see what happens. MAC might have decided against this because you will have to remove the gas tank to remove the pump - or it maybe a bad spot to put holes in the case. We will see. BTW the seal is wedge shaped so I don't think I'll be making a soft one. Maybe a little gasket sealer??? Ron

 

[Eccentric]

found a yellow saw today, paid $5 for it as the guy behind the counter felt sorry for me, this bad boy is smashed, but I think the case and P&C are going to live to see another day, on the bottom of the case is stamped 1-80, 87cc of mac power, just so happens I have a complete 250 that is seized up tight, might be time to make it a franken super. Oh yeah it is free and has quite a bit of compression, once I find out how to remove the smashed muffler I will get a peek at the piston.

Pics or.......

 

[promac850]

Pics or.......

Nope... top secret. FYEO.

 

[mad murdock]

need pics of the copter please.




would trade all of my saws for a hughes, bell or rotoway.

Ok I guess I will post some here tomorrow. Will have to pose a Mac with it to keep it appropriate to this theadI hope this link doesn't break with forum rules, here goes nothing. http://westernhelicopterservices.com/Photo-Gallery.html some of the ships in our fleet.

 

[sawbones]

Ok I guess I will post some here tomorrow. Will have to pose a Mac with it to keep it appropriate to this theadI hope this link doesn't break with forum rules, here goes nothing. Western Helicopter Services, Inc. some of the ships in our fleet.

Are you kidding? this is the mac thread. Anything goes here. :msp_thumbup:



great link. :cool2:

 

[rwoods]

:agree2: Most of us MAC guys are pretty laid back. If we weren't MAC's little idiosyncrasies would bust our band. Ron

 

[heimannm]

Many years ago I spent part of one summer working in a small local welding shop. Our big project that summer was taking a highly modified IH straight truck with a beefed up front axle and building a landing pad for a helicotper above a large water tank. This vehicle became a mobile refilling/refueling station for the helicopter when he was spraying crops, could be parked conveniently to where he was working, and required only one ground crew to help with each refill. Without getting out of the 'copter the pilot could start the (gasoline powered) pump, run the valves for the water and mix, ground crew would connect/disconnect the hose and keep on spraying. One of my tasks was builidng the spare fuel tank that was also a step up to the control area.

Sadly, the pilot was killed a couple of years ago in an accident where he was flying a film crew shooting a movie here in Iowa.

I was running a McCulloch 200 as my main firewood saw at the time doing all of the splitting by hand with an axe or with wedges and an 8# sledge hammer. I was much younger and tougher in those days...

Mark