McCulloch Chain Saws

[dieselsmoke]

Bolt up your Tilly HL to the saw and then give her a try. Those flat-backs are temperamental lil XXstards. Aaron's spot on, no change with adjustment means cloged or screwed up carby.

 

[promac850]

Something may be clogged. You're running the flatback correct? There's a check valve (or a sintered capiliary 'filter') under the big welch plug on those. It's acting like the H side is set too lean, but you say that adjusting the H side has no affect (so there could indeed be a problem with the high speed circuit). I have had zero luck with those flatbacks. Make sure you set the H side according to my sig line...

Clutch nut came off twice???

The clutch nut did come off twice. I tightened it a little more than the last two times, and also used blue thread lock. Hasn't come off again.

Wierd thing is when I first let it bite and spit chips out, it ran decent. Then fell right on its face. I've had that high side screw anywhere from 1 turn out to 3.5 turns out. Nothing changes.

I think I'm going to have to buy myself an ultrasonic cleaner, and tear the carb all the way down, welsh plugs out and all. Then set it in some carb dip in a container and set that into the US cleaner. Maybe that will turn a faultback into a proper flatback.

Dieselsmoke, I will try the Tilly and see if it runs better. Thing is, I want the Tilly to go on the S44A. Guess it may not end up in that airbox...


Stupid carb. Started up for me on the first pull, but doesn't let the engine get the fuel it needs to properly administer an ass whooping on a piece of soft maple. About as useful as a broken rake. Sure, it works... sorta.

I'm gonna go revisit Mark H.'s thread on the carbs and see if I can get my brain to understand them a little better. Later today, that is.

Got to go cut up that log. Yep, the 250 will bark once again.

 

[cbfarmall]

The clutch nut did come off twice. I tightened it a little more than the last two times, and also used blue thread lock. Hasn't come off again.

Wierd thing is when I first let it bite and spit chips out, it ran decent. Then fell right on its face. I've had that high side screw anywhere from 1 turn out to 3.5 turns out. Nothing changes.

I think I'm going to have to buy myself an ultrasonic cleaner, and tear the carb all the way down, welsh plugs out and all. Then set it in some carb dip in a container and set that into the US cleaner. Maybe that will turn a faultback into a proper flatback.

Dieselsmoke, I will try the Tilly and see if it runs better. Thing is, I want the Tilly to go on the S44A. Guess it may not end up in that airbox...


Stupid carb. Started up for me on the first pull, but doesn't let the engine get the fuel it needs to properly administer an ass whooping on a piece of soft maple. About as useful as a broken rake. Sure, it works... sorta.

I'm gonna go revisit Mark H.'s thread on the carbs and see if I can get my brain to understand them a little better. Later today, that is.

Got to go cut up that log. Yep, the 250 will bark once again.

Before you overreact and turn over hell and high water, try setting the metering arm a bit higher. Usually works wonders for a lean high side. If that doesn't do it, start chasing blockages back to the tank.

I've got flatbacks on several saws and they're fine. My Super 250s are both animals. Biggest problem I had with that one is the lacquered fuel at the bottom of the tank was sucked into the carby. It was fine when running, but when the fuel set up a bit, it glued the check ball closed and the saw refused to rev up at all. I finally had pull the tank apart and scrape the stuff out. BTW, I'd hardly blame the carb for that.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

Alright........where can I get seals for this crank? The clutch side seal looks ok but the flywheel side is shot. Id like to replace both regardless. Bearings are in great condition however.

Also the coil works but it has cracks all over it if you look closely, prob from heat and age. Not to mention the plug wire is cut. Should I replace it or just run it?

Seals are easily crossed at your local bearing house (or NAPA I suppose). Shame about the coil. I wouldn't worry much about the cracks, but the broken lead is not easily replaceable. If you think you can replace it the lead, try it. What's to lose?

Chris B.

 

[promac850]

Before you overreact and turn over hell and high water, try setting the metering arm a bit higher. Usually works wonders for a lean high side. If that doesn't do it, start chasing blockages back to the tank.

I've got flatbacks on several saws and they're fine. My Super 250s are both animals. Biggest problem I had with that one is the lacquered fuel at the bottom of the tank was sucked into the carby. It was fine when running, but when the fuel set up a bit, it glued the check ball closed and the saw refused to rev up at all. I finally had pull the tank apart and scrape the stuff out. BTW, I'd hardly blame the carb for that.

Chris B.

I will try that first then.

I don't think it's the fuel tank having lacquered fuel in it... I cleaned it all out real well, by scraping, and soda blasting. The soda blast residue was washed off thoroughly and that shouldn't be the problem either. I also dumped the tank like Aaron said to.

So how did you clear out the residue from the check ball? Can it be done without taking the welsh plug out?

 

[heimannm]

OT - Seal are normally easy to find, you might want to take the old ones and the crank shaft with you (or measure the journals where the seals ride) when you go to your supplier and they can easily match them up.

Kyle - Chris makes a good point on the metering lever, in my carburetor thread I do try to show the normal position but you can certainly raise it a bit to increase fuel flow. What you are describing sounds like a fuel delivery problem, did you replace the fuel pump and metering diaphrams? If not, you should certainly consider it; Bryce has the diaphragms and gaskets for around $27 on e-bay.

The check valve or capillary seal on the older carburetors is under the 1" welch plug.

Don't overlook the fuel filter in the fuel pump body either.

Mark

 

[Overtrained]

Alright thanks guys for the info.

 

[cbfarmall]

So how did you clear out the residue from the check ball? Can it be done without taking the welsh plug out?

Carb cleaner and compressed air. I may have even run it thru the ultrasonic cleaner. Took awhile to unglue the ball.

I'm not suggesting your tank is lacquered, just illustrating past carb troubles. Since you had the saw completely tore down the tank was opened, and you must have cleaned it.

Chris B.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Plug Wire

Overtrained,

If you keep the coil, Mark H. has a write up in here somewhere on replacing a plug wire.

He used a role pin in a hand drill to clean the wire end out of the coil.

The seam in the role pin was sharpened slightly to cut out the old wire and the role pin
will pass over the pin the delivers the electricity from the coil to the wire and on to the
spark plug.

I believe he just used some RTV to seal the new wire into the coil.

Good Luck,

ODW

 

[joeymt33]

OT, that coil is good. It was running when I had the saw. a good hot spark. Anyway, try changing the wire like ODW said. It's not too hard as I've done it as well. Some auto parts stores sell wire in bulk, you can reuse the plug end of that wire right?

You may be able to seal the cracks with some epoxy if you're worried about that.

After saying all that above, it sure would be nice to just replace it.

 

[Overtrained]

Well, ill assess the coil and see which is the best route to go after cleaning 40+ years of dirt grime and bar oil off of it. It did work but the coil wire is hacked and taped back together. Id find it more acceptable to leave it on a runner but not on a restore.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Alright........where can I get seals for this crank? The clutch side seal looks ok but the flywheel side is shot. Id like to replace both regardless. Bearings are in great condition however.

Also the coil works but it has cracks all over it if you look closely, prob from heat and age. Not to mention the plug wire is cut. Should I replace it or just run it?

You can always put a coat of epoxy glue on those cracks, just as long as you don't get it on the contacts. I would replace the plug wire.

 

[Overtrained]

OT, that coil is good. It was running when I had the saw. a good hot spark. Anyway, try changing the wire like ODW said. It's not too hard as I've done it as well. Some auto parts stores sell wire in bulk, you can reuse the plug end of that wire right?

You may be able to seal the cracks with some epoxy if you're worried about that.

After saying all that above, it sure would be nice to just replace it.

Someone was def in this saw at one time or another. Had some tell tale signs the points were redone etc.

 

[andydodgegeek]

Question for anyone who may know...Is a 1-43 pretty much the same as a 200? I have a couple of them and they sure do look the same.

 

[promac850]

OT - Seal are normally easy to find, you might want to take the old ones and the crank shaft with you (or measure the journals where the seals ride) when you go to your supplier and they can easily match them up.

Kyle - Chris makes a good point on the metering lever, in my carburetor thread I do try to show the normal position but you can certainly raise it a bit to increase fuel flow. What you are describing sounds like a fuel delivery problem, did you replace the fuel pump and metering diaphrams? If not, you should certainly consider it; Bryce has the diaphragms and gaskets for around $27 on e-bay.

The check valve or capillary seal on the older carburetors is under the 1" welch plug.

Don't overlook the fuel filter in the fuel pump body either.

Mark

Thanks Mark. I did replace the fuel pump and metering diaphragms. I think the flatback carb kit was one of the first things I bought for this build. I will check the filters again and reset the metering lever a little higher than you did in your carb thread.

 

[heimannm]

Andy - porting may be slightly different, not sure if either or both the 1-43 and 200 have all three exhaust ports opened up.

The 1-43 would have the "plunger" type choke operated with the operator on the left, the 200 has a butterfly choke with the operator on the right.

The 1-43 has plain bearings in the top end of the rod, the 200 had needle bearings in the top end.

They probably had different style mufflers but they would be interchangable in any case.

There may be other things I am missing in my haste.

Mark

 

[leeha]

Got these two bad puppys begining of the week.
From very well known fellow member. He also threw
in a nice gift but unfortuneatly it didn't make the
trip. These are two project 797's. One mostly complete
and the other just the block, crank, rod & piston. But
a great candidate for a full blown resto. I will have to
wait sometime before i touch them as they are still
a bit drunk.


Lee

 

[cpr]

Arrrrr...

 

[Brian13]

Arrrr indeed, very nice Lee!!

 

[RandyMac]

ARRRR!!! indeed.