McCulloch Chain Saws

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Worked for me Ron, I had to click "Download" on two differnt screens but it popped up in about 5 seconds.

Joey, the part numbers changed, but did hte anti-vibe front and rear mounts actually change? I have several on hand and no matter what the numbers were when I bought them (if they had numbers) the parts all look the same.

Last night I added another row of shelves in the attic to allow me to put up a few more part saws and saws waiting for repair. I was actually able to get a few parts saws out of my little garage and up into the attic so I could get all the work saws arranged in the little garage.

Brother Ray (rheima) and Moody came up today and we managed to spend around 4 hours in the shop plus a great chili lunch provided by Mrs. Heimann.

Ray brought along his Wright with no spark and we did manage to get the flywheel off, points cleaned up, but the spark plug wire must be replaced and I didn't have any suitable wire on hand.

We did replace the diaphragm on his 99 (I ended up with a NOS diaphram in the haul of stuff from Woody) and after a few futile attempts Moody provided the right touch to the primer and the beast was alive. We did not manage to put it in any wood today and I'm sure the chain will need a lot of attention but it did seem to start and run pretty nicely.

We also spent a fair amount of time getting a 1-10 for Moody up to the point where it would start but did not get the bullfrog/flat back completely sorted out.

After Ray and Justin left older son Jeff helped me finish sorting through the carburetor parts from Woody, some of the items were possible to I.D. and get put away where they can be found again, there were still a couple of small parts cabinet drawers filled with miscellaneous diaphragms and gaskets, metering screws/springs/needles, etc., and other carburetor parts.

Sorry, no photos today...

Mark
 
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I had no trouble getting the PDF Joey put up, but since others were, I PM'd him and had him email me the original spreadsheet. I converted it to a picture that everyone should be able to see:

attachment.php
 
Mark, you're right about AV mounts. Their part numbers changed but I've found no difference like you said. That is why this helps. I think most numbers I used here are for the most common used parts and are interchangeable between models. I left off number that do not interchange.

Enjoy.
 
Worked for me Ron, I had to click "Download" on two differnt screens but it popped up in about 5 seconds.

Joey, the part numbers changed, but did hte anti-vibe front and rear mounts actually change? I have several on hand and no matter what the numbers were when I bought them (if they had numbers) the parts all look the same.

...
Mark

Mark, you're right about AV mounts. Their part numbers changed but I've found no difference like you said. That is why this helps. I think most numbers I used here are for the most common used parts and are interchangeable between models. I left off number that do not interchange.

Enjoy.

Guys, I can't address the part numbers but I have two different mounts. I never noticed it before until I replaced Lazarus' a few weeks ago. Maybe tomorrow I can get you a picture. Ron
 
Lee I hope it does have a 101 in it but if it doesn't I have a low hour 1976 101 in mint condition I can throw in it. I am definitely inspired by your cp125 build, it came out nice. I want to build something hopped up a little but I want to keep it new factory appearing like yours.
 
Joey - I have some well used 24" bars, not sure that is the same thing as good used bars...

Ron - the front mounts are typically "hollow" and do not have threaded inserts, the rear mounts are "solid" and have the threaded inserts. You can knock the the threaded inserts out of the rear mounts and use them up front, I guess you could add nuts or inserts to the front mounts and use them in the rear.

Mark
 
Joey - I have some well used 24" bars, not sure that is the same thing as good used bars...

Ron - the front mounts are typically "hollow" and do not have threaded inserts, the rear mounts are "solid" and have the threaded inserts. You can knock the the threaded inserts out of the rear mounts and use them up front, I guess you could add nuts or inserts to the front mounts and use them in the rear.

Mark

Joey & Mark, there are two models of each mount - a solid center and a hollow center. I believe the hollow center is the more modern, but I am only guessing. As Mark noted the only difference from front to rear is the rear has threaded inserts in the outside holes and the front does not. Ron

Mounts compared (rears are on left and fronts are on right):

attachment.php


View attachment 260886
 
I was talking to Ted the other day about this same thing. We both said we've seen those differences. I agree that the hollow mounts are probably more modern.
 
I bought a few pair of those mounts some time back might have to see what i have tucked away in my shed that needs them as i have a few of that style of Mac will do a head count today and id what i have most of are old prop cutting saws that got sold around here to cut timber for the mining industry but them days are almost completely gone ................ i think i have a PM570 as well anyway i'll look sometime today.

McBob.
 
Yessterday

Worked for me Ron, I had to click "Download" on two differnt screens but it popped up in about 5 seconds.

Joey, the part numbers changed, but did hte anti-vibe front and rear mounts actually change? I have several on hand and no matter what the numbers were when I bought them (if they had numbers) the parts all look the same.

Last night I added another row of shelves in the attic to allow me to put up a few more part saws and saws waiting for repair. I was actually able to get a few parts saws out of my little garage and up into the attic so I could get all the work saws arranged in the little garage.

Brother Ray (rheima) and Moody came up today and we managed to spend around 4 hours in the shop plus a great chili lunch provided by Mrs. Heimann.

Ray brought along his Wright with no spark and we did manage to get the flywheel off, points cleaned up, but the spark plug wire must be replaced and I didn't have any suitable wire on hand.

We did replace the diaphragm on his 99 (I ended up with a NOS diaphram in the haul of stuff from Woody) and after a few futile attempts Moody provided the right touch to the primer and the beast was alive. We did not manage to put it in any wood today and I'm sure the chain will need a lot of attention but it did seem to start and run pretty nicely.

We also spent a fair amount of time getting a 1-10 for Moody up to the point where it would start but did not get the bullfrog/flat back completely sorted out.

After Ray and Justin left older son Jeff helped me finish sorting through the carburetor parts from Woody, some of the items were possible to I.D. and get put away where they can be found again, there were still a couple of small parts cabinet drawers filled with miscellaneous diaphragms and gaskets, metering screws/springs/needles, etc., and other carburetor parts.

Sorry, no photos today...

Mark

As I sit in front of the computer Sunday afternoon thinking--why didn't we take some pictures yesterday! Thanks for a fun visit Mark and Terri! I love the way the 99 sounds and moody and I plan on doing some cutting with it on Wed. afternoon. When we got home I fired the 99 up just to make sure I had the touch---second pull-- loud noise and it was great. Still being in the mood, I fired up the PM10-10 and decided the little saw made more noise than the 99, or more painfull at least. Thanks for the help again Mark!


Ray
 
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McCulloch 15

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A Nice Lookin Mac 15 I just picked up.
Tanks are very clean, Fuel line from tank to carb will need replacing, but besides that seems to be a nice clean example.
 
I was thinking the same thing due to the trimming around the decomp button, but I was unsure what this saw really was.

I just now noticed the pic of the decomp valve. Didn't the saw originally have a lever that came out between motor and tank close to the trigger?
 
The 101 I have has the decomp on the cyl did they make them with the decomp on the head? If so what saws had the decomp on the head?
 
beep, beep, beep, beeep, beep............Mc-update!

i changed the coil on the DE80 and "oh yeah" its much better. now i can tune the motor by listening for the 4 stroking. with the old coil, the RPM would not rise when the high needle was turned in. that made it more difficult to know that i had it tuned properly. i put a 610 coil in it and now i tuned it like all other Macs. i'll finish tuning when i can get it good and hot while cutting. i will say that i could not tell the difference between the DE80 coil and the PM610 coil. i bet my DE80 was faulty unless someone knows that it was governed electronically.
 
beep, beep, beep, beeep, beep............Mc-update!

i changed the coil on the DE80 and "oh yeah" its much better. now i can tune the motor by listening for the 4 stroking. with the old coil, the RPM would not rise when the high needle was turned in. that made it more difficult to know that i had it tuned properly. i put a 610 coil in it and now i tuned it like all other Macs. i'll finish tuning when i can get it good and hot while cutting. i will say that i could not tell the difference between the DE80 coil and the PM610 coil. i bet my DE80 was faulty unless someone knows that it was governed electronically.

Good to hear. Nice to see another 5 cube 10 series will live again, I have 3 here that I need to get running.
 

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