McCulloch Chain Saws

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I know already that I'll need:

-Fuel line.

-Handlebar and mounting hardware.

-Gas cap.

-All AV buffers (top front, top bumper, top rear, rear handle, bottom bumpers, and front/bottom mount).

-Chainbrake lever, pivot pin, and spring.

-Intake boot.

-Some of the AV mounting hardware (some is there, but some is missing).

-Lower cylinder shroud and mounting screws.

-Flywheel cover and starter assy and mounting screws.

-Bottom plate/brace.

-Muffler cover, reed, and reed stop.

I've got your brake pivot and spring. I've also got your flywheel cover and starter. This flywheel cover is from a pm10-10 so you will need to drill two holes for the two extra fasteners that the pm850 has. It's no problem, I've done it several times. This flywheel cover is missing the starter handle and the saw dust screen.

If you want that stuff, let me know.

Joey
 
I've got your brake pivot and spring. I've also got your flywheel cover and starter. This flywheel cover is from a pm10-10 so you will need to drill two holes for the two extra fasteners that the pm850 has. It's no problem, I've done it several times. This flywheel cover is missing the starter handle and the saw dust screen.

If you want that stuff, let me know.

Joey

Sounds great Joey. I'll gladly take them.:cheers:
 
Thanks to Philbert I stopped in a shop earlier this week and picked up three old saws and a bunch of parts. Can't remember if I posted any photos of that stuff earlier.

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This is the second 250 I found with the short AF cover, this one has good compression, may be a project coming up in the future.

Mark
 
Rather that continuing on my 1-86 project like I need to, I decided to clean up the SP80 parts before I put them away. In the process, I just kept finding more and more, plus I stumbled across a new piston with rings and bearings for the SP80 while I was putting away the other pistons. Since it all appeared to be there I thought "why not"?

I ended up taking the muffler and fuel cap off the SP81, used one of the new boots from the small boxes among the pistons, the NOS piston, new seals, everything else came with the saw. I did manage to find a pretty decent cylinder in the SP80 box, the other one in the box was pretty rough. A little acid to remove some aluminum transfer, a quick hone and a soak in the Berryman's and the cylinder looked pretty good.

I made a few hiccups along the way, tapped the intake mounts out to 12-24 (luckily I had some 12-24 screws just the tight length), went back and forth a half dozed times on the automatic oiler and ended up keeping the original metal pump since it had an extra little locating tit on the base and a hole in the oil tank. I did add the top mounted clip from another pump in the box to help insure a good seal, a few gaskets here and there, and voila...another SP80 added to the collection. The crankshaft is not the unique SP80 version but has the standard taper/thread/keyway on the PTO end so I had to use a clutch from a RH start saw to have the keyway, necessary with a RH nut on the PTO side.

I did have a few frustrations with the carburetor, took it apart and gave it a rudimentary cleaning, internal gaskets and diaphragms looked good, pressure test O.K.. I installed the carburetor, 10-12 pulls and not even a pop, recheck the spark - spark good, prime and pop, prime sputter, just wouldn't pull fuel. Removed the carburetor again, still holds pressure, try the metering diaphragm and the pressure never dropped...what's up with that. Take it apart and check the metering lever/level, seem right, but no matter what the pressure never drops. Finally remove the needle and compare it with some kits I have on hand, somone had installed the wrong needle and it was too long so it wouldn't open. Find a correct needle in one of the drawers, put it all back together and away we go. For now I installed an old 24" sprocket nose bar I had on hand and used the original clutch cover that has never been drilled for the spikes. I will probably install a short clutch cover with a brake eventually and perhaps a longer bar but for now I just need to find some time and some wood to cut.

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Mark
 
I almost forgot, on Friday night I finished cleaning up the 7-10 I got a couple weeks ago from e-bay with the lever style compression release. I pulled the flywheel and ignition to gain some access for better cleaning. Other than replacing the three piece sawdust guard and installing a new 18" bar & chain I didn't have to do anything to this saw. Starts, idles, oils, even the kill switch works. Great compression on this one, should be as much fun in the woods as my earlier 7-10. Now I need to get a really nice PM700 up and running for a good side by side test. 2twannabe seems to have the good needed to make that happen...

A couple of photo's of my first 7-10 with pop up compression release, and the one I just got with the lever style compression release. I can't find the photos of the latest finished project, I will have to take a few more I guess.

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Mark
 
I found these at the hardware store the other day, trying to find a spring to mount the 3/8's bar to the 10 series bar studs:


Maybe it was meant to be given the company's color scheme:hmm3grin2orange:


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View attachment 283716



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View attachment 283717


They take up the gap quite well once installed...not absolutely perfect, but should work out just fine.


-Andy
 
Well I got myself another front tank mac. It's the eBay super 250. Says there's a prob with the engine. I say oh well I needed another project.
I will post pics when it shows up.

Well pics or it didn't happen right!
Well I have been a little busy working on my snow machines to be playing with chainsaws but I finally found some light at the end of the tunnel. View attachment 283722
This one has a bad crank and rod.
View attachment 283723
And this one has a good crank and rod.
So I will build one from two.
 
I have one. Was wondering what kind of silicon to use on the gas and oil tank of my pm 60?

Permatex, beginning with 518 in the number, 6 oz.? tube is under $13. Red and sorta a liquid, good stuff. Silicon will leak, eventually.
 
Hey guys, I've never seen a 10-10 like this. It's cool!

McCulloch Pro Mac 10 10 S | eBay

I see that the seller also has a PM555 setup the the same way. IIRC Mark has one of those PM10-10S Special Edition saws (with the red Plaid AF cover decal) and it has the PM800 style bottom skid and wrap handle. Neat stuff.

I believe this is just an imaginative use of MAC parts, after-market bars and some engineering. Nice concept though.

Everything interchanges between the SP81 and old style PM850.

Everything SP81 and PM800 except DSP valve (I see you have a later PM800 with a DSP valve), crank, cylinder, flywheel, and rear shroud (recoil cover, crank and flywheel as a unit will interchange in a pinch at least old to new; probably new to old as well but I don't know for sure). The recoil covers and shafts are different due to the flywheel and muffler and the bottom braces have the AV bumpers in a different location but all of these can be made to work. If you put an old style muffler on an 800, 805, DE80, 8200 or new style 850, you should make a lower shroud to direct the air flow as these saws use the top of the muffler for this purpose. AF covers and clutch covers are different but interchange without modification.

SP80s have a different clutch set up; I don't know about the crank. Also some manual oilers may have different linkages. I believe Mark can fill in the details on the SP80.

Ron

I forgot to add that the mag bottom AV saws (SPs) have a 90 degree different orientation to the bottom front mounting holes on the handle bar than the skid plate AV models (PMs).

Ron
 
I see that the seller also has a PM555 setup the the same way. IIRC Mark has one of those PM10-10S Special Edition saws (with the red Plaid AF cover decal) and it has the PM800 style bottom skid and wrap handle. Neat stuff.

I've had a couple of those special edition 10-10s saws. But neither looked like that. Ted has one if them now, it was well used.

I'm also curious, is that some home brew mods?
 

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