McCulloch Chain Saws

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It ain't lookin good fellas... I still can't get this 450 to turn over past about 270 degrees. And I've never seen an engine so packed with gunk, it must have run HOT for a long time.

I'm probably looking at a replacement P&C for this thing to ever live again.

View attachment 1209404
Maybe wrong length spark plug or something like a bolt (or broken points) behind the flywheel?
 
Shown here pulling the crankcase cover but the same arrangement would work on the flywheel with smaller O.D. washers.

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I like to leave the nut on, loosened a couple of turns. Those flywheels often come off when you least expect it, and with considerable velocity.

Mark
 
So I should just that style puller instead of buying a dedicated chainsaw engine flywheel puller, thanks Mark you saved me some money, I already have that style puller, just need some long 1/4-20 bolts.
 
Well i got the 795 today. Im happy to say im excited. Very clean, complete machine. No damage. The cylinder is in great shape, the piston looks fantastic. The carburetor has been swapped out with a tillotson hl119 already. Its not a mac carb. I did see a few fasteners missing. The muffler has very little surface rust. Inside the fuel tank is very clean. Other than some little things....i believe it to be a rather low hour saw. Perhaps this weekend ill have it running.
Im at softball practice or id send photos...sorry.
 
Big ol mess....

Question, what comes off next? Fuel tank?

View attachment 1209903
What's the end goal? If getting to the guts is your objective pull the clutch side completely apart. Next remove the 6 circular screws around the crank and pull the "case half" off. Fuel tank is next, pop the cover off, then the back half and you will see the cap screws. Pop 'em off, catch the 5 million needle bearings that fall out, tap the crank out the fw side, and pull the rod out or ram a dowel through the plug hole and drive it out.
 
What's the end goal? If getting to the guts is your objective pull the clutch side completely apart. Next remove the 6 circular screws around the crank and pull the "case half" off. Fuel tank is next, pop the cover off, then the back half and you will see the cap screws. Pop 'em off, catch the 5 million needle bearings that fall out, tap the crank out the fw side, and pull the rod out or ram a dowel through the plug hole and drive it out.
Yes sir that's my objective!!

A million needle bearings eh... that sounds fun. Haha

Thank you!
 
The bar studs....and the oil pump / passages... are in the fuel tank? Man oh man....

So at this point....how many of those bolts need to come out to separate the tank from the engine? Can the oil tank stay attached to the fuel tank or does everything have to come apart?





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The bar studs....and the oil pump / passages... are in the fuel tank? Man oh man....

So at this point....how many of those bolts need to come out to separate the tank from the engine? Can the oil tank stay attached to the fuel tank or does everything have to come apart?





View attachment 1209906

Undo the 4 large bolts, they have rubber washers/orings to seal the tank. I don't recall perfectly but I don't thing anything on top around the oil tank is holding that assembly to the case. So, the oil tank can stay attached.
 

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