McCulloch Chain Saws

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Someone sent me a message that this saw was available. A few follow up messages with the seller and it came to Dike. Mismatched paint color, some poor quality painting, broken bits, and general abuse...

Notice the starter is clocked CCW; two of the normal holes were tapped 1/4-20 and the third completely wallowed out.

20250106_171259.jpg

You can't see it in this photo but whoever had been using this saw was constantly pulling the starter straight back and cut a deep groove in the starter cover. That and the fact that they used some 5/16" braided polypropylene rope for the starter meant I had some work to do.

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Here you can see the groove in the starter cover and the badly wallowed out hole about 4:00.

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The AF cover looks good but the color is wrong and doesn't match either the muffler guard or the clutch cover.

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Clutch cover had been broken and welded, but was still missing two of the three holes for the spike, oil tank has all three so the spike will go there.

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The biggest surprise was the lower brace was broken but hidden inside the protector sleeve.

Mark
 
I had a used/repaired lower brace and a new starter cover. I installed some 10-24 threaded inserts for starter and replaced the chunky rope with a suitable piece of 1/4" nylon.

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The H&S spike is impressive.

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Starts, runs idles, and oils like the Exxon Valdez.

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My tree service friend is going to put this one to work for real.

Mark
 
I had a used/repaired lower brace and a new starter cover. I installed some 10-24 threaded inserts for starter and replaced the chunky rope with a suitable piece of 1/4" nylon.

View attachment 1232005

The H&S spike is impressive.

View attachment 1232006

Starts, runs idles, and oils like the Exxon Valdez.

View attachment 1232007

View attachment 1232008

My tree service friend is going to put this one to work for real.

Mark
I see you have the same issue I do. Buggered clutch cover with the clutch brake delete option. 😂.
 
Top one is a 440, 87cc top tank saw that was to replace the 380 models.

Bottom one is most likely a 1-51, 1-52, or 1-52 with the long black air filter cover over the oil tank. Should have a full wrap handle bar. 1-51 is 80 cc, 1-52 and 1-53 are 87cc.

There will be a model number stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. That is usually the best way to identify the older McCulloch models as many other parts can be interchanged. This is a 1-50 serial number 8700.

IMAG2494.jpg

Value is hard to pin down. Since I have the different models I would not give more than $25 for either but on the market they could get as much as $100 depending on the buyer.

Mark
 
Hi,
could someone quickly tell me what kind of McCullochs these are and how much they would be worth in such a questionable condition? View attachment 1232109
View attachment 1232110
Bottom one is a 1-51 or another from that series like Mark said. My dad has one. Value wise I’d pay $50 usd, but to the right collector with money they could sell for $100 like Mark said.
 
Hello

I have a mac 250 im working on and a parts 1-42 machine. The 250 has the flatback carb and the 1-42 has the HL carb with the spring style choke. Can the HL carb swap into the HL directly along with the spring choke setup? If so would you recommend doing this?

If i dont have to take gasketed components apart i dont want to, with that said any tips how to clean and what cleaner to use on the 30+ year old goo on accessible surfaces? I know i cant use carb cleaner on the paint.

IMG_7842.jpegIMG_7843.jpeg
 
Hi,
could someone quickly tell me what kind of McCullochs these are and how much they would be worth in such a questionable condition? View attachment 1232109
View attachment 1232110
Looking at the saw above it sports a uncommon halfwrap handle, the starter cover is tear dropped shaped and tells me it is not a 440 but a 1-7x or a 740L.
 
Hello

I have a mac 250 im working on and a parts 1-42 machine. The 250 has the flatback carb and the 1-42 has the HL carb with the spring style choke. Can the HL carb swap into the HL directly along with the spring choke setup? If so would you recommend doing this?

If i dont have to take gasketed components apart i dont want to, with that said any tips how to clean and what cleaner to use on the 30+ year old goo on accessible surfaces? I know i cant use carb cleaner on the paint.

View attachment 1232247View attachment 1232248
Wd40 or mineral spirits normally work well for me.
 
Yubi - Alan is correct, I just glanced at the all yellow saw and made an assumption...

This is a 440 with the "non Super Series" type engine and shroud. They generally came with a RH starter as shown here.

DSCN0801.jpg

That saw you show is indeed a Super Series engine design with LH starter and the somewhat special 1/2 wrap type handlebar. The only Super Series that I have encountered with a LH starter is the 795L but they had a different color scheme here in the US. You probably need to investigate that saw further as it seems to be somewhat unique. It would be very interesting to know the model number stamped on the bottom of the crankcase.

Mark
 
mopar4u - Just looking at the condition of the two carburetors, I would be inclined to keep the MAC carburetor in the 250. Knightmax, Ralley Guy, and Jeffrey F all have the gaskets and diaphragms for the MAC flat back carburetors and I have rebuilt primers if yours doesn't function as it should. Max and I both have the fuel lines as well, looks like someone installed some Tygon on yours. Switching carburetors is a lot more complicated in your case since the manual oiler functions are on opposite sides of the rear handle. You would have to tear the saw down quite a ways to be able to change the oiler pushrods from one to the other.

Mineral spirits, WD-40, and some of the water base cleaners like Simple Green, Purple Power, etc. will go a long way in getting that one cleaned up if you work at it. If you use one of the water based cleaners (they are really effective at taking off stains that petroleum products to not) follow up with some WD-40 to restore the shine.

The fuel cap on your 250 is a bit of an oddity, and it missing a cover.

Mark
 
mopar4u - Just looking at the condition of the two carburetors, I would be inclined to keep the MAC carburetor in the 250. Knightmax, Ralley Guy, and Jeffrey F all have the gaskets and diaphragms for the MAC flat back carburetors and I have rebuilt primers if yours doesn't function as it should. Max and I both have the fuel lines as well, looks like someone installed some Tygon on yours. Switching carburetors is a lot more complicated in your case since the manual oiler functions are on opposite sides of the rear handle. You would have to tear the saw down quite a ways to be able to change the oiler pushrods from one to the other.

Mineral spirits, WD-40, and some of the water base cleaners like Simple Green, Purple Power, etc. will go a long way in getting that one cleaned up if you work at it. If you use one of the water based cleaners (they are really effective at taking off stains that petroleum products to not) follow up with some WD-40 to restore the shine.

The fuel cap on your 250 is a bit of an oddity, and it missing a cover.

Mark
Thanks Mark

Sounds great, ill proceed with teardown and inspection of the flat back. I guess i didnt realize the primers could be rebuilt👍. Is there any videos going through the teardown of a flat back? Any tips or watch outs? Ive done a lot of carbs in my life but not one of these.
 
Click on the McCulloch Carburetor link at the bottom of my signature and go to the last pages in the thread for more details. There are some You Tube videos by Parker Jameson as well to help you.

Mark
What size fuel line should be used from carb to fuel tank?
 
Thanks Mark

Sounds great, ill proceed with teardown and inspection of the flat back. I guess i didnt realize the primers could be rebuilt👍. Is there any videos going through the teardown of a flat back? Any tips or watch outs? Ive done a lot of carbs in my life but not one of these.
I also heard Pine-Sol works great also. Haven't tried it because wife hates the smell.
 
Thanks Mark

Sounds great, ill proceed with teardown and inspection of the flat back. I guess i didnt realize the primers could be rebuilt👍. Is there any videos going through the teardown of a flat back? Any tips or watch outs? Ive done a lot of carbs in my life but not one of these.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
Here's my store, maybe I can help with gaskets etc.
 
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