McCulloch Chain Saws

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If anyone on here has any mcculloch 99 parts saws or just parts and wanting to part with them i would be interested. I am needing carb parts/assembly, recoil, possibly a throttle cable, points cover, and everything between the recoil and the flywheel its self. I have attached pics of the saw i am working on. Thanks ahead of time, Garrett.
 

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I had to get something out of the utility closet today and remembered I'd put the PM700 in there to allow the Red Cote to fully cure (warmer in the closet...).

Fueled it, started in 3 or 4 pulls and only needed a little tweaking of the H screw. Automatic oiler works very well.

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Mark
 
There are some parts that will interchange on some models, but it is a lot more complicated than your might think.

Some crankshafts, some connecting rods, probably some pistons are the same. The crankshaft seals and mufflers (with some exceptions...) will interchange. The starter rope and handles will interchange...

The cylinder and crankcase for the PM 6 models is distinctly different from the Mini Mac models.

The flywheel will interchange on early models, ignition coils and condensers are the same...

The starter pulleys are even different, the PM6 are smaller in diameter and the hole in the center is smaller.

They both use MDC carburetors but the fuel inlets are different, and the choke shaft is different so you even swap the carburetors (after changing the fuel inlet portion).

Mark
"There are some parts that will interchange on some models, but it is a lot more complicated than your might think."

Mark, Truer words were never spoken!
 
Well I sold off my PM570 last night and now I'm on the hunt for a PM55....
Well...I have this. Some shop grime on it, but not a bad looking saw. It fired up on prime this morning.
 

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Unintended consequences...

A few weeks ago someone left a very rough McCulloch PM650 here. I have an intern (local high school) so I had him work on it for the experience. We checked compression and it was 155 so I decided it was worth the time & effort to make it a runner again. Tore the saw down, removed the flywheel using the "smack the nut while holding the flywheel method" and proceeded to tear the saw down for a good cleaning.

After cleaning I tried spinning the saw over and it would only go part of a revolution...so I had him break the crankcase open (clamshell design). We could see nothing wrong, no foreign objects in the crankcase or cylinder...so reassemble the saw with a new PTO side bearing two new seals. Upon reassembly and torquing the screws we were back to a dragging resistance and I thought the flywheel looked awfully close to the crankcase. I used a hard plastic hammer to "realign" the crankshaft from the PTO end and the saw turned freely again.

At that point I just assumed the intern had dropped it while cleaning and caused the crankshaft to shift, but when I was installing the flywheel nut I remembered our disassembly process and knew what had happened.

I will still use the "smack the nut" method for many saws, but will try to be more aware that it is possible to shift the crankshaft on the bearings when you use that procedure.

Mark
 
Unintended consequences...

A few weeks ago someone left a very rough McCulloch PM650 here. I have an intern (local high school) so I had him work on it for the experience. We checked compression and it was 155 so I decided it was worth the time & effort to make it a runner again. Tore the saw down, removed the flywheel using the "smack the nut while holding the flywheel method" and proceeded to tear the saw down for a good cleaning.

After cleaning I tried spinning the saw over and it would only go part of a revolution...so I had him break the crankcase open (clamshell design). We could see nothing wrong, no foreign objects in the crankcase or cylinder...so reassemble the saw with a new PTO side bearing two new seals. Upon reassembly and torquing the screws we were back to a dragging resistance and I thought the flywheel looked awfully close to the crankcase. I used a hard plastic hammer to "realign" the crankshaft from the PTO end and the saw turned freely again.

At that point I just assumed the intern had dropped it while cleaning and caused the crankshaft to shift, but when I was installing the flywheel nut I remembered our disassembly process and knew what had happened.

I will still use the "smack the nut" method for many saws, but will try to be more aware that it is possible to shift the crankshaft on the bearings when you use that procedure.

Mark
Thanks for sharing that Mark. I had a similar experience once, except that it didn't actually stop the crank, just caused it to turn harder than it should have. Once I realized what had happened, I used the same method you did to address the problem.
 
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