I found the original E.B.2.1 oil pump from my first 2.1 & I know it's missing the check valve disc.It has the piston in it,but I don't know what else it's missing.I remember buying a used oil pump on Feebay about 4 yrs.ago & I put that on the saw,but couldn't get it to oil at all.I found that the spring that's supposed to be in the oil line is missing the other night when I was reading the service manual.Probably the problem right from the get-go.
McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's
- Thread starter Overtrained
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
The check valve (disc) is the same as the ones used on the 10 Series and 600 Series saws if that helps at all.
Mark
Mark
I didn't know that.When I took the oil pump off the E.B.a few yrs.back & took that fitting off the pump a small thin paper-like disc fell out,there was no disc in there like the ones in the pics.
I'm going to pull the pump off the newest E.B.either today or tomorrow & see what's going on with it.I may be able to swap some parts around & make a good pump out of the 2.
I think I found the oiler problem on the E.B.2.1,Lol.I've never seen an oil pump piston come apart like that.Good thing I found the old oil pump from my 1st 2.1.It had a good piston in it & I managed to make a good pump out of the 2.Getting the bail off proved to be quite a task.
Attachments
It's amazing how well those oil pumps work when they're in good order. If the limiter screw is backed out too far it will drain your oil tank faster than you can spill gas all over your Mini Mac.
I have two 2.0's and a mini-mac 25 right now. Used to have another 2.0,---cut mountains of firewood with it. Got a EB356 here with the oil pump off for some reason,---bought it from an auction taken apart,---saw runs great and I never got the oil pump put back on it yet.
My other Beaver is a 3.7 which I also did use for firewood cutting for many years.
My other Beaver is a 3.7 which I also did use for firewood cutting for many years.
Those 3.7s are pretty much indestructible.I've got my 1st Mac saw I ever bought - a Timber Bear,which is quite close to the 3.7.I ended up getting 2 more TB & several 610s,& I revived them all.
I haven't had much luck with the 300 series saws though as they're a biotch to work on.
What size fuel line do I need for a eager beaver 2.0. Thank you
I put the oil pump back on the E.B.2.1 on Sun.& today I put oil in the tank to see if it'd oil.NOT.Anyone got any idea as to how much oil line should protrude from the oil tank prior to hooking it onto the oil pump elbow?
Hilarious because it's true.
Not sure on the 2.0, but most (if not all) Mini Mac type saws use one of two types of fuel line depending on your carb. It's best to take your saw apart to see which carb you have first. One carb you can use standard 1/8" ID (if I remember correctly) fuel line. Or use McCulloch part number 89059. The other carb used a special hose that has an 1/8" ID on one end and a larger (like 1/4"?, don't know) flared hose end on the other. McCulloch part number 90661.
Yep, I'd like to know what they were thinking having those earlier carbs with the large fuel inlet?? Haha. Those fuel lines are hard to find and it sucks when they crack.
Have a Mini Mac 35 , that has tried all my patience . Carb flooded over no matter what I did ,first firing issue, fixed, then carb issues from Walbro MDC carb, replacement parts . Saw this post 11/15/2019, tried fuel inlet arm setting at posted .020 , was a winner . first time carb held . Thank you MacAttack, and others for sharing.Couldn't have done it without all your guys help!
Back when it would run but couldn't pull on the top end, I am wondering if the old metering lever was actually too low and starving it for fuel. But also the points gap was too large. I am running the original coil which seems to be A-OK.
In any case, it seems to run good with the metering lever actually about .020" above the carb body, certainly not rich.
Now I can dive into my "Evil Dead" HOMELITE, then probably one of my project 10-10 Pros that needs to be revived, I have 2 of them in addition to my 2 running 10-10s.
And then like 3 basket case Mini Macs.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I'm glad my trial and error helped you out!
My experience with the Mini Macs is they can be a challenge to get right, but once you do they work pretty darn reliably.
That is very cool. Let us know how the recoil works out.
And thanks for the cap pictures MacAttack.
Yes, those are the caps I was thinking of. Underneath those plastic inserts is a piece of foam. It's usually completely dissolved. I always thought that it was just the plastic. I never quite understood how it works... but I guess it does.
Once again, thank you.
M
Any of you guys know the correct length of the recoil rope on a Mini Mac?
Sure enough I don't have one laying around, I'm almost done with my 2nd PVC repaired recoil.
Also got our Christmas tree today with that Mini Mac 25 that gave me so much trouble tuning. That saw must feel like it owes me because I swear it's the best running saw I own now, haha.
Sure enough I don't have one laying around, I'm almost done with my 2nd PVC repaired recoil.
Also got our Christmas tree today with that Mini Mac 25 that gave me so much trouble tuning. That saw must feel like it owes me because I swear it's the best running saw I own now, haha.
My old boss said 3' on everything, but I'd just wrap it till it's close to popping out of the pulley.
Sorta depends on how thick the rope is and how narrow the pulley is.
3 feet sounds about right, I have some new rope, might be 3.5 or 4mm, I'll probably try wrapping it around the pulley until it seems right.
I try to be careful not to have it too long and mess up the recoil spring.
I try to be careful not to have it too long and mess up the recoil spring.
I always start with about 3 feet and do final adjustment then cut the excess off if you have some. Rope size and pulley wear will dictate exact length needed.
