McCulloch Super Pro 125C motor

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And when its buttoned up no one is any wiser



And heres its sister saw competing at Dungog in 2008 at the nations with Neil Onley steering it



And it would have been just as fast as any stock powered 101
 
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And when its buttoned up no one is any wiser



And heres its sister saw competing at Dungog in 2008 at the nations with Neil Onley steering it



And it would have been just as fast as any stock powered 101
Wow, that was pretty cool. I have seen some other vids on youtube but I think that was the fastest. Did that saw have anything special done to it like a polish and port job? Also, What size chain and sproket was it running? I bet if you ran a 10, 11, or 12 tooth race sproket it would really get scarry fast. I put a 11 tooth Piltz race sprocket on my Stihl 084 running a cannon 50" bar with .404 ripping chain. I use it on a granberg mill and let me tell you, that saw will dump buckets of sawdust in a hurry.
 
Wow Bubba, I tried a 8 pin with 404 on my 101b with a 50" bar and it didn't like it. It did love the 36" however. I suspect a 7 pin would be just the thing with a 50". I'm surprised an 084 could pull a 50" bar with 404 at all using an 11 pin. That must be some 084. I doubt my ported 088 and 880 could do that, much less mill with it.

Oz, I have another 101b I'm building and want to put my BDC 14 on it rather than the SDC 20. I may have some questions about how to hide it under the hood.
 
Wow Bubba, I tried a 8 pin with 404 on my 101b with a 50" bar and it didn't like it. It did love the 36" however. I suspect a 7 pin would be just the thing with a 50". I'm surprised an 084 could pull a 50" bar with 404 at all using an 11 pin. That must be some 084. I doubt my ported 088 and 880 could do that, much less mill with it.

Oz, I have another 101b I'm building and want to put my BDC 14 on it rather than the SDC 20. I may have some questions about how to hide it under the hood.

Ozflea, I take it back. I went and checked, It was a 9 tooth sprocket on my 084. I have a new 10 tooth that I was going to try with a 30" Cannon fat belly, but have not got around to it. As far as a 7 tooth running the 50" it has more torqe but is really slow. The 9 tooth lets her rip nice and fast and it does not seem to effect it all that much on the torqe either. My 084 is stock as far as I know, and I havent even modded the muffler. 50" is all it can take. really, it likes the 50" alot even better than my 36" or my 47". I don't know why but it is in the realm of a almost perfect harmony with that bar.
 
We don't run bars bigger than needed I get away with 16" bars or 20" bars about 7 or 8 tooth in 3/8" no use being a show pony with big big bars

Engine was stock standard but fitted with a V4 reed block off a Mac 92 93 or 101 sloper manifold
 
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We don't run bars bigger than needed I get away with 16" bars or 20" bars about 7 or 8 tooth in 3/8" no use being a show pony with big big bars

Engine was stock standard but fitted with a V4 reed block off a Mac 92 93 or 101 sloper manifold

I'm not showboating it, It is used for slabbing on a Granberg MKIII mill. I got tired of the time it was taking to mill wide long slabs. with the 9 tooth I would say it only takes 3/4 the time it took with a 7 tooth.
 
Well if your going to be slabbing with it the 101 is not really the engine of choice it has a steel bore and in high hour use would wear it itself to death really quickly best using the 125C with its chrome bore.
 
I bought a SP125C a while back with the intention to rebuild it and use for some large tree work and Slabbing. I have always wanted one and found one on ebay that was complete but had no spark. The saw looked in great shape and I wanted it bad enough, that I won the bidding at $320. When I got it it was in real nice cosmetic shape and felt like it had real good compression. I installed an electronic ignition module and got good spark. The saw would try to start with a prime but the fuel tank was pretty gummed up with varnish so I decided to rebuild the entire saw. Upon teardown I found everything except the piston and bore to be in awsome shape. The seal on the clutch side had gone out and was packed with redwood sawdust. When I got the motor apart I found the bore to have alot of the chrome plating missing and alot of scratches, the piston and rings also. I thought that I could hone the bore and put a new piston and rings in it but wanted to have a saw mechanic look at it to see what he thought about it. The mechanic said that honing it would not help it because the bore needed rechromed. He said that it would be a waste of time and would not last. I found a site on the net from Australia that said you could not rebore the SP125C cylinder. It also said that you would have to sleeve the motor or find a 101B Kart block for it. I can not find a good SP125C shortblock anywhere that is in decent shape and can't find a NOS or a 101B block either. Anybody ever sleeve one or know where I could get this done? Does anybody have a good one or a NOS or 101B that is in great shape that they would sell or does anybody have any suggestions on what else I could do for this saw to get it back to its former glory without spending a boatload of money on it? Remember, I plan to use the saw for real work so I need it to be able to last.
 
I bought a SP125C a while back with the intention to rebuild it and use for some large tree work and Slabbing. I have always wanted one and found one on ebay that was complete but had no spark. The saw looked in great shape and I wanted it bad enough, that I won the bidding at $320. When I got it it was in real nice cosmetic shape and felt like it had real good compression. I installed an electronic ignition module and got good spark. The saw would try to start with a prime but the fuel tank was pretty gummed up with varnish so I decided to rebuild the entire saw. Upon teardown I found everything except the piston and bore to be in awsome shape. The seal on the clutch side had gone out and was packed with redwood sawdust. When I got the motor apart I found the bore to have alot of the chrome plating missing and alot of scratches, the piston and rings also. I thought that I could hone the bore and put a new piston and rings in it but wanted to have a saw mechanic look at it to see what he thought about it. The mechanic said that honing it would not help it because the bore needed rechromed. He said that it would be a waste of time and would not last. I found a site on the net from Australia that said you could not rebore the SP125C cylinder. It also said that you would have to sleeve the motor or find a 101B Kart block for it. I can not find a good SP125C shortblock anywhere that is in decent shape and can't find a NOS or a 101B block either. Anybody ever sleeve one or know where I could get this done? Does anybody have a good one or a NOS or 101B that is in great shape that they would sell or does anybody have any suggestions on what else I could do for this saw to get it back to its former glory without spending a boatload of money on it? Remember, I plan to use the saw for real work so I need it to be able to last.
I have a One Owner SP125C in Superb condition purchased a pair in 1974 or 5 San Diego California, has been stored for over 25 years since I retired very low hours 53 inch roller nose New Chain,saw shows very well, have complete History has Original Air cleaner,chain plates,Start rope,and original Plug in it! Very low use. For further info and detailed pics contact Owner please! [email protected] a message will be returned with number to call. Saw is located in Alabama. Thank you. PS Asking $1800 saw speaks for itself and was properly stored thank you
 
You can Google on the internet. I was wondering what someone would do with all the 125s that are still out there being maintained and used! Appears to be a solution for you, check it out it's surely worth putting some money to it. They don't Disappoint you willows the Saw
 

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