Mini mill action

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Got a little maple cut today. I ran the planer over them a pass and they smoothed up pretty good. Now to wait on them to dry some and sand.

1198.JPG
 
I got a video of one cut. Dang chain brake kept tripping. I need a new spring in there to hold the handle back. It was a lot slower than the 288 through the wood. I did use round filed chisel chain since I don't have any semi chisel for the Stihl bars yet.
 
try to keep your bar 90 degrees to the log ,the way you were tilting makes the cut faster ,but a rougher finish at the same time ,think slow =smooth,my sawdust looks a little bigger than a skillsaw sawdust milling

i use the smaller side cover milling too ,it seems to shoot the sawdust more away from under where you are working ,one of these may work good for cutting the sides off bigger logs i mill ,i have been freehanding the sides of the logs off to make them fit on my mill
 
try to keep your bar 90 degrees to the log ,the way you were tilting makes the cut faster ,but a rougher finish at the same time ,think slow =smooth,my sawdust looks a little bigger than a skillsaw sawdust milling

With the hand planer I don't worry too much about the finish. I can make it smooth in about 3 minutes on a slab that size.
 
I need to figure a way to kiln dry them so I can use them next year.

I've got some maple and cherry to cut over. Xmas hopefully.

Mike, you can build a kiln from a refrigerator box -- I chit you not. Cardboard combusts at like 750. You need a milkhouse heater (or similar non open flame type). Time/temp tables for the wood you want to dry can be found online I'm sure.

The beauty of the system is, it's moving hot air -- like a convection oven. You make a flap type vent (or similar) on the opposite side of the heat to control temp.

Sent using two cans and a string.
 
Mike, you can build a kiln from a refrigerator box -- I chit you not. Cardboard combusts at like 750. You need a milkhouse heater (or similar non open flame type). Time/temp tables for the wood you want to dry can be found online I'm sure.

The beauty of the system is, it's moving hot air -- like a convection oven. You make a flap type vent (or similar) on the opposite side of the heat to control temp.

Sent using two cans and a string.

I may have to check into doing that if I keep making lumber and slabs.
 
I may have to check into doing that if I keep making lumber and slabs.

Yeah, it's pretty much a free setup. You get the boxes for free from local appliance places behind the store.

You can make smaller versions for baking painted parts, or even powdercoat.

Sent using two cans and a string.
 
Speaking if square chain for milling, I bet a lot of the roughness comes from back-angle on the side plate. I'd be curious to see a 10 degree top, 90 degree side -- and a light stoning for tooth continuity.

Sent using two cans and a string.
 
Mike, you can build a kiln from a refrigerator box -- I chit you not. Cardboard combusts at like 750. You need a milkhouse heater (or similar non open flame type). Time/temp tables for the wood you want to dry can be found online I'm sure.

The beauty of the system is, it's moving hot air -- like a convection oven. You make a flap type vent (or similar) on the opposite side of the heat to control temp.

Sent using two cans and a string.



Why not go one step further and use an old chest freezer.
 
Why not go one step further and use an old chest freezer.

Well, the lining would have to be torn out to have any temps above 140°, and it would still be quite the fire hazard. Plus, the heater has to be on the outside blowing in. A cardboard box is free, and a lot less work. ;-)

But, for a more permanent heat box, a freezer would probably be a good solution.
 
Oh, I forgot to mention. . . Multiple boxes could be joined together for larger and longer stacks. Staples and silver HVAC tape aren't too expensive either.

Sent from my Bic RaZor
 
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