Modern replacement for Stihl 028 AV?

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Even though I'm very happy with my 241 and it is a great saw.

In your case - buying one new saw - I would seriously look at the 261
 
Given all the love for the 028, I'm leaning towards rebuilding it now. Heck, I've found another one about an hour from here, which I'm thinking I should buy for myself!

Regarding the rebuild, would there be any reason to go with used OEM parts, vs replacement parts (such as piston/head kit from Baileys)? The kit from Baileys would effectively make this a Super, as the only difference is displacement, correct?

Also, is there anything specific about the 261 that makes it a "lesser" saw than the 028? If so, what? I know most of us (myself included) have the "they don't build them like they used to!" mindset, but I know sometimes that's not necessarily rooted in reality.
 
Hate to say it but from my experience from the new Stihl line up the 028 can't be replaced except for....... well another 028.Kinda like a new age Politician against Ronald Regan.:laugh:

Yes they sure are built well like the 038 series, just a bit heavy, but reliable as the sun coming up.

I have become very fond of the 036 as my firewood saws, as it is as light/lighter than my 028 but 10cc more power. Stihl, I would never sell my 028S
 
As far as as being a "lesser" saw.the ms261 more than likely won't have the life expectancy of an 026 or 028 due to the mtronic, strato charging and all around use of chiwanese parts.the plastic caged bearings I absolutely hate.I've gotten into a pile of saws this year with what I call Evaporative Cage Syndrome.of course this is just my opinion but I like the old school stuff I grew up around more every day.
 
I think you guys have not only convinced me to rebuild dad's 028, but to scour Craigslist to find one for myself. LOL What's an acceptable price range, and are there any common issues to look for in a used saw? I'm not expecting there to be much...which is probably why it's so well regarded! I'm finding them within a couple hours drive for $150 (seized), $250 (looks rough), and $325 (looks really clean in photos). Would these be reasonable prices?

Short of my cheapo Poulan (worked fine for my ultra light use while we lived in town), I'm new to saws. I assume...if it runs and cuts well, it's "good to go"?
 
I think you guys have not only convinced me to rebuild dad's 028, but to scour Craigslist to find one for myself. LOL What's an acceptable price range, and are there any common issues to look for in a used saw? I'm not expecting there to be much...which is probably why it's so well regarded! I'm finding them within a couple hours drive for $150 (seized), $250 (looks rough), and $325 (looks really clean in photos). Would these be reasonable prices?

Short of my cheapo Poulan (worked fine for my ultra light use while we lived in town), I'm new to saws. I assume...if it runs and cuts well, it's "good to go"?


You can do much better than those prices. If you R + R a seized 028S you can build a nearly new saw for $250 that will last many many years. If you can't get OEM look for tecomec for P/C parts, then do carb and all rubber/filters. Check AV mounts and clutch/oiler

I got one with a 064 buy last summer, thought it of as a bonus, P/C looks clean but missing a few parts, P/C looks too good to part out so on to another project.....
 
Those prices are way high. In my area, a good running, good looking 028 is 200. Good running, but doesn't look real nice is 150. Non running is 100 or less. Add $50 if it's a super .

I have an 028 Super that'll be for sale here before too long. It's in the running, but not pretty category. PM if you're interested.
 
Ok, after the education received here (and elsewhere), I'm going to rebuild the saw. Turns out, it's a Super as well. I've ordered a Tecomec cylinder/piston kit for the unit from one vendor, and I'll be placing an order from another for a variety of other parts. Initially I was planning simply replacing the jug, piston and wrist pin only (well, gaskets too). Simple "fix what broke, and get it running again" plan. Reading some other posts/threads, it seems like this may be a good time to replace all the rubber on the saw, to prevent another breakdown. That's farther than I had planned on going, but...probably a good time. It is 30+ years old.

I've got the workshop manual for the saw, but haven't taken time to look through it (yet). Seems like crank seals, intake boot, fuel tubes would need replaced. What other items would I want to order to do a solid reconditioning of the saw? I'd actually RATHER leave it alone ("if it ain't broke, don't fix it"), this is one of those <sigh> "may as well do it right" moments.

Lastly, the kill switch on the saw isn't working quite right. If you just flip it to the "off" position, the saw won't shut off. If you "jiggle" it a little, however, the saw will die. The electrical contact between the plate spring and the switch seems to be ok. Are there any common reasons for the switch to behave like this? Seems like it has to be either the switch or the contact.
 
A Stihl replacement for an over heavy turd of a 50cc saw isn't hard to find, MS261 - but if you want a lighter and more nimble/well handling one, the answer is Husky 550xp.


If an old 028 is such a Cadillac saw, then a Husky 346xp PORTED is a Corvette!
I would far rather have the Corvette than the tank Caddy.:yes:

The Ferraris in this contect are the 346xp and the 550xp. Stihl simply doesn't have any competetive models in the 50 and 60cc classes at the moment.
 
The 028's are a good old reliable saw. They last like a Buick......not fast but built to last and easy to repair.
I fix a lot of these and see all vintages....not to many p/c problems unless someone's been tinking with the carb and leaned it out to much

Biggest thing I see is saw stored with gas in tank.....carb kit, fuel line and filter and most are good to go. Another week ness I see are the clutch springs....not sure of the reason why.

Good old saws....you'll be glad you rebuilt it!!!!
 

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