MS 200T - A couple questions

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jsd176

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I got my 200T a few weeks ago and had a couple questions on it. I was debating posting this in the chainsaw forum, but decided to post here since it is an arborist saw and I would think more folks are familiar with them.

Should you be able to pull the chain easily and smoothly by hand when it is tensioned? I have no problem doing this with my other saws, but I wasn’t sure if the 200T was different since it is a compact design and has a different clutch style. The saw runs great otherwise; it’s just that the chain doesn't pull as easily by hand, which makes me think something may not be right.

When tensioning the chain, after the chain tension is where I want it and I go to tighten the bar nut, the chain gets tighter. I guess that is a result of only having one bar stud and the bar being able to rotate until the nut is tightened? How do you guys prevent over tensioning the chain?
 
Tension as normal, should take a little extra pull to get it moving...super smooth and spinning sounds like too loose.

Always hold the bar tip UP when tensioning by sight (chain coming up to touch the bottom of the bar..), then tighten the nut while still holding up the bar...then check the tension...

Last way to check the tension is when you start it up, rev it up then let it wind down...the chain should come to a stop and then not move at all when the saw is idling.
 
Tension as normal, should take a little extra pull to get it moving...super smooth and spinning sounds like too loose.

Always hold the bar tip UP when tensioning by sight (chain coming up to touch the bottom of the bar..), then tighten the nut while still holding up the bar...then check the tension...

Last way to check the tension is when you start it up, rev it up then let it wind down...the chain should come to a stop and then not move at all when the saw is idling.

:agree2: I have seen it too many times, the guy not holding the bar up when adjusting the tension.
Jeff :)
 
Yep, I always keep the bar tip up. Maybe I'm not holding it up as far I think I am. I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow.

When I said my other chains pull smoothly by hand, I guess I should have said by comparison to the 200T. I tension my chains so when you pull down on the them, they snap back into the guide rails.

Thansk for the feedback guys!
 
Tension as normal, should take a little extra pull to get it moving...super smooth and spinning sounds like too loose.

Always hold the bar tip UP when tensioning by sight (chain coming up to touch the bottom of the bar..), then tighten the nut while still holding up the bar...then check the tension...

Last way to check the tension is when you start it up, rev it up then let it wind down...the chain should come to a stop and then not move at all when the saw is idling.

Word. That's right on.
 
Chain Tightening!

Tip up always. But remember boys don't tighten your chain to the tightness you want. Get it close cause when you tighten the nut, whether it be single or double stud it will always get tighter than what you adjusted your tension to. I'm on my 2nd 200T and love 'em. My money maker. Tough as nails!!!
 
Well, they ain't quite as tough as me, but they're still a good money makin saw for shure. Though at the moment mine is giving me some crap, dogging at times when throttling up. Oh well, I'll fix it. The 192 is still running bulletproof.
 
My 200 was dogging a little too. I put a new spark plug in it and some fresh mix and it's running like a champ again.
 
My 200 was dogging a little too. I put a new spark plug in it and some fresh mix and it's running like a champ again.

Seems like mine is an off and on type of thing. I'll go to start it before I go up a tree and it's either good or crap, put it away and grab the 192. Take it home and blow the filter off and put it back on and it runs great. Next tree it's great, next day it's crap. Thought at first it was just a little dirt in the carb, next thought was gas. I'll check the plug, fresh mix didn't show any consistentcy.
 
Seems like mine is an off and on type of thing. I'll go to start it before I go up a tree and it's either good or crap, put it away and grab the 192. Take it home and blow the filter off and put it back on and it runs great. Next tree it's great, next day it's crap. Thought at first it was just a little dirt in the carb, next thought was gas. I'll check the plug, fresh mix didn't show any consistentcy.

I have similar issues from time to time with my 020T. Seems to be affected more negatively on humid days. For some reason it seems like more fuel comes out of the carb and wets the filter, then it runs kind of crappy but once I blow the filter out and wipe around the intake, it runs fine. PITA, but minor in the grand scheme of things. Next time it runs crappy inspect the area around the intake and see if the filter feels wet from fuel coming back out of the carb.
 
I live in California, I think emissions has alot to do with this. Do you guys remove the spark arresstor and think you get more power? Clean or replace the screen, your saw will last longer.
Jeff :)

Spark arrestor? I remember searching my ms200t for the spark arrestor years ago, (I'm no mechanic) in hope to improve its performance a wee bit. Well, after managing to ruin the muffler, I found out saws are delivered without spark arrestors in Norway!

The sad part of this story is that this is often the way I learn how mechanical things work. I take things apart, break them (not on purpose), and then I learn. Luckily I'm a good learner after making one mistake :)
 
For that bogging thing...

If nothing else works, check the fuel tank breather...my 200t would run fine, then start to bog then cut out, and not start for a while, fuel tank breather had some crud in it...now it runs better than ever!
Someone here told me to check that, and they were right on!
 
I got my 200T a few weeks ago and had a couple questions on it. I was debating posting this in the chainsaw forum, but decided to post here since it is an arborist saw and I would think more folks are familiar with them.

Should you be able to pull the chain easily and smoothly by hand when it is tensioned? I have no problem doing this with my other saws, but I wasn’t sure if the 200T was different since it is a compact design and has a different clutch style. The saw runs great otherwise; it’s just that the chain doesn't pull as easily by hand, which makes me think something may not be right.

When tensioning the chain, after the chain tension is where I want it and I go to tighten the bar nut, the chain gets tighter. I guess that is a result of only having one bar stud and the bar being able to rotate until the nut is tightened? How do you guys prevent over tensioning the chain?

Could you clarify this for me. Does the chain run loose, then tight, then loose, then tight when rotated or is it always tight? If it is constantly too tight then of course just back it off a touch. Remembering that like all metal chains it loosens when hot and tightens when cool. If its behaviour when cold is the loose/tight thing however you have a different problem. Either the chain is stretched in one point, (throw it away) or the nose wheel on the bar is is damaged (throw it away). The best way to check for either of these problems is to buy a new chain and run it on the same bar. If you have the same problem its the bar.... if not its the chain.

200t's are very powerful for the bar length and it is easy to burn bars or chains on them. I have 1 employee who is known for his "sexual fingers" (think about it) and the 200t is a common victim.
 
Spark arrestor? I remember searching my ms200t for the spark arrestor years ago, (I'm no mechanic) in hope to improve its performance a wee bit. Well, after managing to ruin the muffler, I found out saws are delivered without spark arrestors in Norway!

The sad part of this story is that this is often the way I learn how mechanical things work. I take things apart, break them (not on purpose), and then I learn. Luckily I'm a good learner after making one mistake :)

I tried to rep you for this blatant honesty. It is clear you are a man because a woman would have read the manual first! Someone help a brother help a brother and rep this poor male fool!

Just so we are crystal clear. I too am a foolish man with pretensions of knowledge who frequently breaks things and then reads the manual. Thats how its done right boys?
 
I tried to rep you for this blatant honesty. It is clear you are a man because a woman would have read the manual first! Someone help a brother help a brother and rep this poor male fool!

Just so we are crystal clear. I too am a foolish man with pretensions of knowledge who frequently breaks things and then reads the manual. Thats how its done right boys?

Proxy rep sent...and from the girl!!! Haha:cheers:
 
I tried to rep you for this blatant honesty. It is clear you are a man because a woman would have read the manual first!

Well, I do actually think I read the manual first in this occasion. Only problem was I think it said something like performance might improve by removing/cleaning the spark arrestor.

What it did not say was how to get to the spark arrestor or the fact that saws in some districts are delivered without them. So I just started my search for the holy grail, or was it a spark arrestor?!? And when intelligence and fiddeling didnt succeed in finding the holy mesh screen, raw power took over...
 
Proxy rep sent...and from the girl!!! Haha:cheers:

:eek: I've just been rep'd from a girl.... Does that mean I'm in danger of getting cooties? What should I do? Will disinfectin my laptop in a tub of bleach be enough? Or has the cooties all ready spread through the Internet...
 
:eek: I've just been rep'd from a girl.... Does that mean I'm in danger of getting cooties? What should I do? Will disinfectin my laptop in a tub of bleach be enough? Or has the cooties all ready spread through the Internet...

Hey hey...this girls's rep is worth triple!! My girl cooties are all over AS, its a done deal, the infection is rampant...there is no escape, accept it and be proud!

You can either :cry: or have a :cheers:
 

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