Ms 291 oiler???

[Slacker4]

Thanks for the info guys.


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[windthrown]

It was cold and I am using winter grade stihl bar oil.

That is 10wt oil, so it should be plenty thin.

 

[windthrown]

I'm running the Stihl winter blend as well. I was using some Husky bar oil and when cold it wouldn't pour out of the bottle. I have Echo saws and some Stihls. The Echos oil all the time and you can see the oil all around the bar they put out a lot. The Stihls don't oil at idle and they seem to be pretty dry. If you pull the drive links out of the bar you should find a film of oil on them.

Updated:

Stihl adjustable oiler saws do not oil at idle because they run off of a notch in the clutch drum. However, a lot of the Stihl non-pro saws used to have non-adjustable oilers that run off the crank. They oil all the time, even when idle. These new 291 saws have oilers that do not run off the crank, so they will not puddle at idle. Or they should. Seems that the oil output is set pretty low. Look for bar burning/bluing on the bars. That happens when they do not get enough oil.

 

[AKDoug]

Stihl adjustable oiler saws do not oil at idle because they run off of a notch in the clutch drum. However, a lot of the Stihl no-pro saws have non-adjustable oilers that run off the crank. They oil all the time, even when idle. These new 291 saws have oilers that run off the crank, so they will puddle at idle. Or they should. Seems that they are set pretty low. Look for bar burning/bluing on the bars. That happens when they do not get enough oil.

Nope. All current Stihl, adjustable and non-adjustable, saws run their oilers off the wire driven worm gear that locks into the notch in the clutch drum. As such, they do not oil until the clutch is engaged.

 

[motorman1]

Sounds to me like its doing its job. Have you lifted the chain out of the bar groove to see if the chain drivers are wet after running the saw a bit? You'd probably be surprised at the amount of oil you don't see, but it's there. That's the only parts you need to worry about.

 

[Slacker4]

I have not done this but I will when I cut my next load of wood.


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[windthrown]

Nope. All current Stihl, adjustable and non-adjustable, saws run their oilers off the wire driven worm gear that locks into the notch in the clutch drum. As such, they do not oil until the clutch is engaged.

I stand corrected... I update the post above. It looks like all the non-pro Stihls now have cutch driven oilers. But many do not have adjustable oilers. The 1141 saws, including the 291 have what are called 'variable displacement' oilers, but they are not adjustable. I do not have a service manual for that saw, so I do not have the oil output of those pumps.

 

[stillhunter]

My MS 291 seemed to be a little dry when the standard thick bar oil was cold after nights below freezing and sawing on a cold day in the 30's. It seems to flow more oil when it's warmer but always seem to have 1/4 tank or so of oil left when the gas runs out. I think the auto oiler and oil tank capacity are designed to last longer than a tank of fuel to prevent running the oil out and damaging the bar/chain.

 

[windthrown]

Looking in the 291 service manual, the oil pump delivery rate is a meager : 8.0(+/2.0) cc /min. at 10,000 RPM. That is really low...

Compare that to a 290 which is adjustable from 8 – 18 cc / min. at 10,000 RPM.

 

[Jlhotstick3]

That really sucks, cuz my work jus got me a 291 for a saw cuz someone dropped my 260 out of the bucket onto black top from bout 45' .... So no options then as far as swapping it out?

 

[Rockjock]

That really sucks, cuz my work jus got me a 291 for a saw cuz someone dropped my 260 out of the bucket onto black top from bout 45' .... So no options then as far as swapping it out?

Run a thinner oil as an experiment. Some people have used Rapeseed ( canola oil ) and it is quite thin with no issues at all. If there is no bluing of the rails then it is doing its job be it just.

 

[7sleeper]

Run a thinner oil as an experiment. Some people have used Rapeseed ( canola oil ) and it is quite thin with no issues at all. If there is no bluing of the rails then it is doing its job be it just.

Just what I wanted to say! Further if your bio bar lube is to thick, you can easily dilute it with canola oil and it will flow freely again!

7

 

[Jlhotstick3]

Boy after running my 291 at work , I'm not a big fan, I have to choke it every time I start it, it Boggs when I'm cutting a cedar pole which is very soft as we all know and it just feels cheap, I miss my 260 pro a lot.....anyone kno how to get more power outta this pos?

 

[AKDoug]

It needs to be adjusted if it requires choke to start, sounds like the L is adjusted lean. Lack of power and bogging can also be lean on the H side. The 291 was never meant to replace a pro saw like a 260. It should run circles around a stock 290, which is what it should be compared to.

 

[Jlhotstick3]

It needs to be adjusted if it requires choke to start, sounds like the L is adjusted lean. Lack of power and bogging can also be lean on the H side. The 291 was never meant to replace a pro saw like a 260. It should run circles around a stock 290, which is what it should be compared to.[/QUOTE

Your right i shouldn't compare it to a pro saw i guess i just miss my 260, i always thought the 290 was a decent saw? This one jus seems real cheap, where the older 290s seemed a lil more rugged, ill try adjusting the carb thanks for the advice

 

[Jlhotstick3]

Whops screwed that up lol

 

[NorthernBreeze]

I was just googeling this subject for my ms291 and came up with this thread. My own personal experience, my first time running it, it seemed to use 3/4 tank of oil to one tank of gas. It was a little cooler today but I would have to say I'm at about 2-3 tanks of gas per tank of oil. My bar edges are getting sharp, like the heals of the chain are sharpening it and I saw sparks a few times. I'm hoping that's normal. I'm going to switch to the winter blend and try to clean my saw a little. I thought the 291 had adjustable oilers but it doesn't sound like it

 

[AKDoug]

That is one downfall of the plastic cased clamshell saws. You MUST use thinner oil in winter. On a magnesium cased pro saw it will warm up the oil in pretty short order.

 

[z71mike]

My bar edges are getting sharp, like the heals of the chain are sharpening it and I saw sparks a few times. I'm hoping that's normal.

That's never normal.

Make that NOT happen.

 

[Doug H]

I know this an old thread, but I have repaired many 291s and 271s with oilers not working right or at all. Most had the same issue, the plastic oil pump itself. It has a small cylinder type pump with a metal gear. The pump is usually too far into its hole in the plastic pump body, causing the gear to touch the plastic body. This causes high resistance to the gear turning or stops it completely. In either case, the metal pump gear then wears out the spiral threads on the plastic worm gear and it slows or stops oil flow. If you pull the worm gear and it's worn out, this is the usual cause with these models. It's very common. The only way I've found to fix the factory problem is to lightly tap the gear of the pump with a small punch back out of its hole a little to relieve the friction and allow the gear to spin freely.