MS200T clutch side crank seal question

[pantelis]

Definitive Dave on here can get you a Chinese carb cheap if you are interested?

yes the china carb works good and cost nothing, trust them

 

[MattG]

Did you pressure test the carb at the fuel inlet pipe?

No I've not done that yet. Actually I've had enough of mechanic work for one day after reassembling the estate car!

But I've found the test in the manual - it says it should hold 0.8 bar positive. It doesn't say for how long, though... are we just talking 30 seconds or 5 minutes or something?

 

[MattG]

Is that the chinese carb you guys are referring to?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ZAMA-...720147?hash=item2c9e9e10d3:g:gisAAOSwu4BVrzDP

so I guess that since I'm a very occasional user - not actually in the tree service business - then this one should be ok for a few years?

 

[lone wolf]

Is that the chinese carb you guys are referring to?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ZAMA-...720147?hash=item2c9e9e10d3:g:gisAAOSwu4BVrzDP

so I guess that since I'm a very occasional user - not actually in the tree service business - then this one should be ok for a few years?

Its worth a try at that price.

 

[pantelis]

Do you remember when the big mamas stihl - husqy give you warranty for theirs 60 -70 euros OEM carbs ????????? just saying

 

[pantelis]

Its worth a try at that price.

Yes its worth , and the chinesee friend will change for free if someting its not ok .

 

[MattG]

Looks like general advice is "get the cheapo carb and see what happens!"

I'll post back in a week or so and tell you how it works... Least now we do have some wood delivered for me to test it on

 

[pantelis]

i have use theese cheapo carbs in husky 372 , 365, 262 272 350 61 55 without any problem
also in stihl 180 250 341 361 460 trimmers fs 85 again without any problem
the same with coils , pistons, clutches , fuel lines , filters , impulse lines ,
some plastics sometimes dont fit 100% but its not the end of the world a heat gun can do the job

 

[MattG]

Actually I said I'd post back when I get the cheapo carb.... however I tested the original carb today - it pressurised to 80kpa as per stithl manual - I moved the spindles too - and no loss for at least 5 minutes.

(I'll still get the cheapo carb ordered later tonight...)

Also tested (you can tell I'm getting the hang of my new mityvac ) that the vent and fuel line are good - i.e. fuel tank will pressurise, but won't let a vacuum develop.

I have one remaining theory for the weird fuel starve I sometimes get on the first cold start of the day... well when I threw the bulk of the saw back together after the tests were done, I made sure that you can blow clearly down the impulse line through the little drilling in the handle housing - i.e. no crud was blocking this crucial passage way - I could. But the thought occurred to me - what about the passageway on the rear of the carb that aligns with this? I did look at the back of the carb and I could see the matching recess - it looks as if there is a very fine screen here - is it possible that that can block over time? Any of you guys know anything about this part of the carb? If it is supposed to be cleaned in a particular way or something?

 

[pantelis]

Actually I said I'd post back when I get the cheapo carb.... however I tested the original carb today - it pressurised to 80kpa as per stithl manual - I moved the spindles too - and no loss for at least 5 minutes.

(I'll still get the cheapo carb ordered later tonight...)

Also tested (you can tell I'm getting the hang of my new mityvac ) that the vent and fuel line are good - i.e. fuel tank will pressurise, but won't let a vacuum develop.

I have one remaining theory for the weird fuel starve I sometimes get on the first cold start of the day... well when I threw the bulk of the saw back together after the tests were done, I made sure that you can blow clearly down the impulse line through the little drilling in the handle housing - i.e. no crud was blocking this crucial passage way - I could. But the thought occurred to me - what about the passageway on the rear of the carb that aligns with this? I did look at the back of the carb and I could see the matching recess - it looks as if there is a very fine screen here - is it possible that that can block over time? Any of you guys know anything about this part of the carb? If it is supposed to be cleaned in a particular way or something?

you mean the carb filter ? very easy take a needle and pull it out clean it and push it again in use a screwdriver or a pencil , personaly i dismantling the carb then i put it in acetone for about 10 minutes and then blow it with air so simple, but the carb cleaners do very good job, some others use ultrasonics machines, everyone have his method

 

[juttree]

There's no screen in there, any thin piece of wire or compressed air will work to clean it out. Just out of curiosity, did you remember to put the washer under the carb (around the outside of the intake) and also the sleeve inside the intake?

 

[MattG]

There's no screen in there, any thin piece of wire or compressed air will work to clean it out. Just out of curiosity, did you remember to put the washer under the carb (around the outside of the intake) and also the sleeve inside the intake?

I might take a piccy in a day or so (cant now as I'm at work) as I'm a still a little unclear as the carb side of the passageway. But yeah, I did remember the sleeve and washers.

 

[MattG]

Ok, here goes... final question about how the carb on my ms200t (and on all new saws, I guess) really works. In the album which I have just linked

[album=medium]1615[/album]

I point to the hole which the vacuum coming from the impulse line terminates at on the intake boot. What I really can't understand is how does that vacuum get transferred to the carb so that it can pump fuel? In the other piccies in the album I point at a recess in the carb that the hole in the boot lines up with (I think!). But, in the case, of my carb looks blocked, that is, solid. I expected a really fine mesh or screen but on closer it just looks like solid metal...

Could anyone explain how the vacuum actually gets transferred to the pumping area in the carb in this case - regarding passageways and holes etc? Since it obviously can't get through solid metal

I can see how it gets from the crankcase to intake boot hole, but how it gets from the boot hole to the carb internals, currently beats me!

Apologies if this question has already been asked on AS....

 

[big t double]

The little hole my finger is pointing to is where the carb gets the impulse signal from...is that what you mean?

 

[MattG]

The little hole my finger is pointing to is where the carb gets the impulse signal from...is that what you mean?
View attachment 456263

That's right, yes...

You're holding your carb upside down I think, but yeah I think that's the same hole I'm pointing to with my pencil. But on my carb that recess is all solid - aint no hole...

 

[MattG]

Yup, I just come back from garage and the hole you point at the same one as the carb piccies in my album

[photo=medium]3155[/photo]

except on my carb it looks solid! So I don't understand how it works...

(BTW my carb has s128b 305a stamped on it)

 

[MattG]

Well, my only explanation is that it just appears to be solid, but is actually a very very fine mesh. That's the only way that the physics can work IMO. Well, I'll try to check that tomorrow... my mechanic work is done today... it's been a long one.

(thanks for your earlier reply, big t)

 

[pantelis]

Yup, I just come back from garage and the hole you point at the same one as the carb piccies in my album

[photo="medium"]3155[/photo]
except on my carb it looks solid! So I don't understand how it works...

(BTW my carb has s128b 305a stamped on it)

This is the oem carb ?? i think correct ??
The saw start after 2-3 pulls ? if yes the impulse hole - screen - mesh in the carb work so dont confuse with this
The saw start but after start the problems ? try to find the problem
Everything in the saw is tested ( seals , leaks , tank, vents , lines, filters etc, etc ) and again have problem ?
1) go to carburator and test it again
2) put a new carb and see how the saw work
3) TRY TO FIND THE PROBLEM THE TIME WHEN IT START ( NOT AFTER TWO WEEKS )
Test the ****ing machine when its hot, i have see leaks from the intakes after the machines works for a half hour, coils that dont work after they hot, parts that loose theirs fiting because of vibrations, any many others mysterius things but after the machines start and work.

 

[juttree]

If you look closely at one side of it you should see a little pinhole.
To be honest, I've never had a 200T with an S128 b carb, always S61, S126, and S32 and I've had and have MANY 200T's. I'm not saying it's the wrong carb, but I've never had one. Could be a US thing or something.

 

[MattG]

This is the oem carb ?? i think correct ??
The saw start after 2-3 pulls ? if yes the impulse hole - screen - mesh in the carb work so dont confuse with this
The saw start but after start the problems ? try to find the problem
Everything in the saw is tested ( seals , leaks , tank, vents , lines, filters etc, etc ) and again have problem ?
1) go to carburator and test it again
2) put a new carb and see how the saw work
3) TRY TO FIND THE PROBLEM THE TIME WHEN IT START ( NOT AFTER TWO WEEKS )
Test the ****ing machine when its hot, i have see leaks from the intakes after the machines works for a half hour, coils that dont work after they hot, parts that loose theirs fiting because of vibrations, any many others mysterius things but after the machines start and work.

Yeah, I've got a cheepy carb coming so I'll try with this. I was just really curious about the impulse signal, that's all but my one is definitely diifferent to the piccy big t uploaded.