yes i will put some pictures, so simple the nut regulate the depth, so the seal can not go deeper
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yes man i know , i have a ton of oem stihl tools , angelo c can confirm this, just make a little fun with the price thats all.
M
MattG
Guest
I must admit with all the mechanical work I've ever done (cars, bikes , and now chainsaws ) I always try to do the job without buying the "manufacturer's special tools". I've managed to get by so far, though for the getting the seals out, like I said, without the jawed puller, I think a case split was a decent move. Splitting them certainly wasn't hard.
I've also found a lot of inspiration by watching youtube vids, since there's a few guys out there who can teach you how to improvise... as well as on arboristsite...
) I always try to do the job without buying the "manufacturer's special tools". I've managed to get by so far, though for the getting the seals out, like I said, without the jawed puller, I think a case split was a decent move. Splitting them certainly wasn't hard.I've also found a lot of inspiration by watching youtube vids, since there's a few guys out there who can teach you how to improvise... as well as on arboristsite...
M
MattG
Guest
One of my tricks for oil seals, especially with car works, is to keep the old seal you've just gotten out and use that to help get the new one in. Sometimes I find it's the perfect size to protect the new one while you tap-tap-tap.with more wide nuts
M
MattG
Guest
Yet another question... Should I put threadlock on the crankcase and cylinder screws? I wondered whether it was a good and bad idea...
thanks again, fellas
thanks again, fellas
Not a good idea .
There's no need. The bottom of the bolt heads are serrated.
The best made in the business, no doubt.
M
MattG
Guest
Oh... Glad I asked! Is that just 'cos it makes a mess? (Though I see like Brad says, they serrated under the head.. to help them grip)
Just makes them too hard to get out and is totally unnecessary.
M
MattG
Guest
Ok. thanks for everyone's help. New parts to arrive in a day or so. So will start to rebuild it soon Will post piccies/vids of finished saw...
Later, Matt
Will post piccies/vids of finished saw...Later, Matt
Yes i must agree with you but my wife forbids me to use hers oven and hers freezer.I must admit with all the mechanical work I've ever done (cars, bikes , and now chainsaws
I've also found a lot of inspiration by watching youtube vids, since there's a few guys out there who can teach you how to improvise... as well as on arboristsite...
so i dont have other solution and buy some stihl toolsunderstand something , all theese threadlocks no mater what brand is , work good only if the threads are in good contition and without damages, so if your threads have problem must find other solutions than a threadlocks glue.
Yes i must agree with you but my wife forbids me to use hers oven and hers freezer.
what does the Girlfriend say ?
Look man , i dont have money now for buying extra ovens and freezers ........... better spend the money for oem toolswhat does the Girlfriend say ?
M
MattG
Guest
Well, I just had a nightmare on the rebuild. The crank and cases went together fine. But of course putting the seal on the clutch side was horrid! I ended up using a 15mm long reach socket, busted 2 new seals in the process! They just didn't seem to go in central to the lugs, and I ended up being too forceful and cracking the seals 
I had previously thought that the clutch one would be the worst, due to that shoulder. I'd kinda tried to make this better with some tape, but guess it didn't help enough. Perhaps the lips were always caught by the shoulder and maybe this stopped the damn thing centering...
So against all my most firmly held principles I've just ordered the STIHL installing sleeve and press sleeve tools:
1123 893 4600
1123 893 2400
Perhaps the installing sleeve will help get me past the shoulder?
I've also ordered some rubber seals 9640 003 1190. I read elsewhere on AS that some peeps were using these. Not sure why STIHL use the bakelite ones at all really? Is it do with heat resistance or something?
This is much harder than changing crank seals on a car!!!
I had previously thought that the clutch one would be the worst, due to that shoulder. I'd kinda tried to make this better with some tape, but guess it didn't help enough. Perhaps the lips were always caught by the shoulder and maybe this stopped the damn thing centering...So against all my most firmly held principles I've just ordered the STIHL installing sleeve and press sleeve tools:
1123 893 4600
1123 893 2400
Perhaps the installing sleeve will help get me past the shoulder?
I've also ordered some rubber seals 9640 003 1190. I read elsewhere on AS that some peeps were using these. Not sure why STIHL use the bakelite ones at all really? Is it do with heat resistance or something?
This is much harder than changing crank seals on a car!!!
Dan Forsh
Addicted to ArboristSite
You'll definitely find that the installing sleeve helps to avoid dislodging the little spring inside the seal as you get it over the shoulder. I've never tried the press sleeves, but if these are an exact fit and positively locate I'm sure they are going to be better than using the closest size deep socket you have in the tool box. Take it very slow and very sure is the best advise I can give you.
M
MattG
Guest
Hi Dan,
Thanks for your reply! Think I may have figured one of my problems. I think put too much grease + sealant on the seal, and that meant it hydro locked whilst I was tapping thus encouraging me to tap too hard. I just tried installing the RECENTLY CRACKED seal by hand, with neglible lube and I managed to get it pretty much in place just by hand! I guess that whenever I've done car seals, I've been very liberal with the lube - and there's always room for excess to escape...
By the way, do you use sealant on outside of seal? What sealant? How much?
thanks again
Matt
Thanks for your reply! Think I may have figured one of my problems. I think put too much grease + sealant on the seal, and that meant it hydro locked whilst I was tapping thus encouraging me to tap too hard. I just tried installing the RECENTLY CRACKED seal by hand, with neglible lube and I managed to get it pretty much in place just by hand! I guess that whenever I've done car seals, I've been very liberal with the lube - and there's always room for excess to escape...
By the way, do you use sealant on outside of seal? What sealant? How much?
thanks again
Matt
