MS200T clutch side crank seal question

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A very simple and easy to do chainsawbase can put the saw in many different posotions , so working faster and better
 

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Dont worry i repair the same saw right now , so follow my instructions
thank you very much
03_STIHL_Blick_ins_Werk_2422.jpg
 
You need the seal , a piece of x-ray picture everyone have one , and the homemade press sleeve or a socket

1 ) put the x-ray piece inside the seal
2) put the x-ray piece with the seal over the shaft, little oil help, look the x-ray piece to touch the bearing
3) push the seal to its postion use oem press sleeve or socket or homemade tools
4) pull out the x-ray piece

so simple , as the pictures
Thanks for taking the time with the picces! I ended up ordering the STIHL special install sleeve, so hopefully that will do the job of x-ray plastic. I see in your piccies that the seal can be installed straight on the crank. With my 2ooT I have the shaft + bearings already in the assembled casings.
 
A very simple and easy to do chainsawbase can put the saw in many different posotions , so working faster and better
That's a pretty awesome base, and yes I'm sure kit like this must make working on saws so much easier... I just wish you lived, like, really close to me, then I could come over and borrow it!:happybanana:
 
Dont worry i repair the same saw right now , so follow my instructions
thank you very much
03_STIHL_Blick_ins_Werk_2422.jpg
Awesome! Wish I had access to all that kit! Anyway, I'm off to my garage now, to see if I can rig something up, with the vice and lots of cuts of wood block/strip that will keep my engine steady...

Later, Matt
 
By sawing a couple of bits from an old broom handle and various batons/strips of wood, I got this system together:

20150614_120049.jpg 20150614_120122.jpg 20150614_120244.jpg

If all goes to plan, what with you not needing more than fairly light taps, I reckon this will be sturdy enough, for me to do "Matt G crankseal installation attempt Part 2". Guess I'll find out next weekend...
 
Thanks for taking the time with the picces! I ended up ordering the STIHL special install sleeve, so hopefully that will do the job of x-ray plastic. I see in your piccies that the seal can be installed straight on the crank. With my 2ooT I have the shaft + bearings already in the assembled casings.
The plastic x-ray piece is just another option-trik for installing seals, sure you do a good job with the stihl tools.
you can install the seals straight on the crank but not in all models, only in models that have one block crankase , for example stihl ms 180 . in saws that the case are two parts must install the seals after you close the crankase, its more easy and dont risk damages to the seals.
Dont forget the pressure-vacuum testing after the installation
good luck
 
That's a pretty awesome base, and yes I'm sure kit like this must make working on saws so much easier... I just wish you lived, like, really close to me, then I could come over and borrow it!:happybanana:
Its very easy to do this base just need some pieces of metal tubes, tell you the truth i never have put saw in a base , no specialy reason but i have learn to repair them on the bench, for the OEM stihl base now that you see in the picture, yeah its vey futuristic but not so very helpfull for the technician, believe me on this. and cost 500 +
 
The plastic x-ray piece is just another option-trik for installing seals, sure you do a good job with the stihl tools.
you can install the seals straight on the crank but not in all models, only in models that have one block crankase , for example stihl ms 180 . in saws that the case are two parts must install the seals after you close the crankase, its more easy and dont risk damages to the seals.
Dont forget the pressure-vacuum testing after the installation
good luck
Yeah, I guessed it was to do with how to the cases split and such.
 
Hey guys,

Really quick question here... say when you start tapping in a seal (yes, real slow, small hammer, etc, ;)) if you notice it's started to go in "not perfectly straight", then is it ok to tap very lightly on the "higher side" with say a blunt punch to correct it?

Or if one starts going in not perfectly straight, is the game already over by that stage? :eek:

(With car crankseals since they are larger, and the rubber is a bit forgiving, I always found them to "right themselves" at the end since they usually end up against a shoulder. But then it must be about 3 years since I last did one of them.)
 
Hey guys,

Really quick question here... say when you start tapping in a seal (yes, real slow, small hammer, etc, ;)) if you notice it's started to go in "not perfectly straight", then is it ok to tap very lightly on the "higher side" with say a blunt punch to correct it?

Or if one starts going in not perfectly straight, is the game already over by that stage? :eek:

(With car crankseals since they are larger, and the rubber is a bit forgiving, I always found them to "right themselves" at the end since they usually end up against a shoulder. But then it must be about 3 years since I last did one of them.)

REEEEELLLLAAAAAXXXXXX man its not a open heart surgury, start taping lightly and control how the seal go , tap the higher sight if need , but if you use the oem tools never have problems .
 
REEEEELLLLAAAAAXXXXXX man its not a open heart surgury, start taping lightly and control how the seal go , tap the higher sight if need , but if you use the oem tools never have problems .

Yeah, ok cool, it's after last time, when I end up with 2 busted seals after 15 minutes... Again hopefully next time things will be better - what with the right tools, better support in vice etc...

Thanks for your reassuring words, though!!! :)
 
Hey guys,

Really quick question here... say when you start tapping in a seal (yes, real slow, small hammer, etc, ;)) if you notice it's started to go in "not perfectly straight", then is it ok to tap very lightly on the "higher side" with say a blunt punch to correct it?

Or if one starts going in not perfectly straight, is the game already over by that stage? :eek:

(With car crankseals since they are larger, and the rubber is a bit forgiving, I always found them to "right themselves" at the end since they usually end up against a shoulder. But then it must be about 3 years since I last did one of them.)
It is OK but you got to correct it as you go and not let it get tipped too much.
 
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