Lots of nice tools thereDont worry i repair the same saw right now , so follow my instructions
thank you very much
Yeah , ask angelo will tell you much more ........... for the tools.Lots of nice tools there
Yeah, I've ordered:You should order at least one extra seal in case.
Thanks for taking the time with the picces! I ended up ordering the STIHL special install sleeve, so hopefully that will do the job of x-ray plastic. I see in your piccies that the seal can be installed straight on the crank. With my 2ooT I have the shaft + bearings already in the assembled casings.You need the seal , a piece of x-ray picture everyone have one , and the homemade press sleeve or a socket
1 ) put the x-ray piece inside the seal
2) put the x-ray piece with the seal over the shaft, little oil help, look the x-ray piece to touch the bearing
3) push the seal to its postion use oem press sleeve or socket or homemade tools
4) pull out the x-ray piece
so simple , as the pictures
That's a pretty awesome base, and yes I'm sure kit like this must make working on saws so much easier... I just wish you lived, like, really close to me, then I could come over and borrow it!A very simple and easy to do chainsawbase can put the saw in many different posotions , so working faster and better
Awesome! Wish I had access to all that kit! Anyway, I'm off to my garage now, to see if I can rig something up, with the vice and lots of cuts of wood block/strip that will keep my engine steady...Dont worry i repair the same saw right now , so follow my instructions
thank you very much
Yeah, yeah, yeah!!!Matt a tip, use a much smaller hammer then you did last time
The plastic x-ray piece is just another option-trik for installing seals, sure you do a good job with the stihl tools.Thanks for taking the time with the picces! I ended up ordering the STIHL special install sleeve, so hopefully that will do the job of x-ray plastic. I see in your piccies that the seal can be installed straight on the crank. With my 2ooT I have the shaft + bearings already in the assembled casings.
Its very easy to do this base just need some pieces of metal tubes, tell you the truth i never have put saw in a base , no specialy reason but i have learn to repair them on the bench, for the OEM stihl base now that you see in the picture, yeah its vey futuristic but not so very helpfull for the technician, believe me on this. and cost 500 +That's a pretty awesome base, and yes I'm sure kit like this must make working on saws so much easier... I just wish you lived, like, really close to me, then I could come over and borrow it!
Matt a tip, use a much smaller hammer then you did last time
Yeah, I guessed it was to do with how to the cases split and such.The plastic x-ray piece is just another option-trik for installing seals, sure you do a good job with the stihl tools.
you can install the seals straight on the crank but not in all models, only in models that have one block crankase , for example stihl ms 180 . in saws that the case are two parts must install the seals after you close the crankase, its more easy and dont risk damages to the seals.
Dont forget the pressure-vacuum testing after the installation
good luck
Well, I'm sure I could find a use for that one... just not chainsaw crankseals!!!Never loose it
Hey guys,
Really quick question here... say when you start tapping in a seal (yes, real slow, small hammer, etc, ) if you notice it's started to go in "not perfectly straight", then is it ok to tap very lightly on the "higher side" with say a blunt punch to correct it?
Or if one starts going in not perfectly straight, is the game already over by that stage?
(With car crankseals since they are larger, and the rubber is a bit forgiving, I always found them to "right themselves" at the end since they usually end up against a shoulder. But then it must be about 3 years since I last did one of them.)
REEEEELLLLAAAAAXXXXXX man its not a open heart surgury, start taping lightly and control how the seal go , tap the higher sight if need , but if you use the oem tools never have problems .
It is OK but you got to correct it as you go and not let it get tipped too much.Hey guys,
Really quick question here... say when you start tapping in a seal (yes, real slow, small hammer, etc, ) if you notice it's started to go in "not perfectly straight", then is it ok to tap very lightly on the "higher side" with say a blunt punch to correct it?
Or if one starts going in not perfectly straight, is the game already over by that stage?
(With car crankseals since they are larger, and the rubber is a bit forgiving, I always found them to "right themselves" at the end since they usually end up against a shoulder. But then it must be about 3 years since I last did one of them.)
Enter your email address to join: