MS360 new top end + port and MM

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Lol well I'd like to be at the peak efficiency compromise of noise and breathing.

MS360 Pro
MS170
009L
Central Boiler CL5036 heating my house, water and 30x40 shop
04 Ram 3500 Cummins QCLB flatbed 4wd
Custom built 4wd Lawn Boy garden tractor with a slew of attachments
Jacobsen Turf Cat T422D with Kubota D950 22hp diesel 72" mower soon to be building splitter attachment (13 gpm single stage 4" cylinder)
 
The bigger you go the louder it gets. Just that simple:yes: Louder does not equal more power:chop:

Disagree. It does usually mean more power but the returns for larger diminishes after a certain point. I shoot for 100%. There's a difference bw an opening that shoots the exhaust charge directly out the front and doesn't do anything for scavenging, not that scavenging is super important on a non-piped 2T, and one that has a wall to reflect the sound wave and a large opening to let the charge find it's way out of the box.
 
In summary, no more than 100% of the exhaust port size is needed for muffler discharge size? I would like to keep the baffle to help a little with noise level.

MS360 Pro
MS170
009L
Central Boiler CL5036 heating my house, water and 30x40 shop
04 Ram 3500 Cummins QCLB flatbed 4wd
Custom built 4wd Lawn Boy garden tractor with a slew of attachments
Jacobsen Turf Cat T422D with Kubota D950 22hp diesel 72" mower soon to be building splitter attachment (13 gpm single stage 4" cylinder)
 
Ok I'll give it a shot thanks

MS360 Pro
MS170
009L
Central Boiler CL5036 heating my house, water and 30x40 shop
04 Ram 3500 Cummins QCLB flatbed 4wd
Custom built 4wd Lawn Boy garden tractor with a slew of attachments
Jacobsen Turf Cat T422D with Kubota D950 22hp diesel 72" mower soon to be building splitter attachment (13 gpm single stage 4" cylinder)
 
Disagree. It does usually mean more power but the returns for larger diminishes after a certain point. I shoot for 100%. There's a difference bw an opening that shoots the exhaust charge directly out the front and doesn't do anything for scavenging, not that scavenging is super important on a non-piped 2T, and one that has a wall to reflect the sound wave and a large opening to let the charge find it's way out of the box.
I disagree that scavenging isn't super important important. Scavenging is how power is made in a stroke regardless of the application. In a thread in which he's talking about porting a saw scavenging should be something the guy should understand.
 
I picked up new clutch springs and bearing, got home and installed springs but they gave me the wrong bearing. Didn't fix my problem but at least I have a spare set of springs... maybe a bearing won't fix it either but it won't hurt to replace it when I can get it swapped for the right one. I then removed the baffle in the muffler and installed a larger pipe, this one is 9/16" ID (stock 3/8") fired it up and retuned. Went out and noodled some rounds, damn this thing is hungry! What a monster! I love it! It wasn't slobbering all over itself but it didn't really clean all the way up unless I leaned on it with the RS chain I was very impressed! This chain rocks and the saw does too! Ran it maybe ten minutes of actual run time, then came back in the shop and let it cool a couple minutes while I got compression gauge out.

Stihl MS360 work saw:
 

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Lmao if I get a bigger one it'll have a lighter bar! This thing got nose heavy fast. Once in the wood I don't notice it but just carrying it around it's definitely not very well balanced compared to the 18" bar (Oregon if it matters)
Thanks for the compliment, fab work comes easy to me.
Video should have worked, it's hosted on YouTube. I just uploaded it, sometimes you have to wait a bit for them to process it. Try again in a bit maybe.
 
Tighten your chain a bit and see if that helps your issue.
 
Yea, that may help. I'm always paranoid that I might get them too tight so I end up with them pretty loose. The new chain did loosen up a little after running it a few minutes, but even before I cut with it, the chain still didn't quite stop all the way. It's not a huge deal.
 
Snugging chain up helped a little, took it out and worked down some more big rounds, ran 2 full tanks through it, my Lord this thing is an animal I love it! Definitely a huge power difference compared to before! I've heard people say this setup is the ultimate firewood saw, and I'd have to say you'd be hard pressed to come up with much better. This chain is sweeeeet! Can't get enough of this thing I'm all grins everytime!
 
Glad to hear it is running well, except the clutch.

Does the chain still spin with the idle way down low? A spinning chain is almost always the idle setting or the springs. Be sure you did not bend the new springs/spring hooks during the install

Stihl made two different size bearings/clutch hubs for the 036/360. The early style bearing was a 10 X 13 X 10
(9512 003 2260) and the latter 10 X 16 X 12 (9512 933 2381). All the 360 and late 036 should have the larger setup unless someone changed it. The complete larger setup is available as a kit to retro-fit early 036 and 034 saws.

P.S. as an after thought the holes in the clutch the springs connect to can wear but the springs would be shot a long time before that.
 
I think by the time I was about done cutting it was pretty much not turning anymore. If I engaged the brake it didn't change the idle any, so it doesn't seem to be fighting the clutch. Idle is about as low as I can get it. Idles really great and incredible throttle response! I'm thinking bearing, the clutch drum wiggles decently. I could be wrong though. The bearing they gave me was too big. Maybe someone swapped the clutch before and put the old style on. Springs are fine I didn't damage them that I can tell.
Thanks for the tech info on the clutches, I think I remember reading that before somewhere. A buddy has an 036 so I'll let him know about that kit if he doesn't already know.
 
I might have missed it ,did it oil. You could a washer out place turning the clutch. nice work nothing beats firing it up for this first time. How you like the little 009l.
 
I might have missed it ,did it oil. You could a washer out place turning the clutch. nice work nothing beats firing it up for this first time. How you like the little 009l.
Yes it oils fine. Anyone know what the metal wire tang is supposed to do that goes between clutch and oil pump? It has a tang with a loop on it that loop slides over the pump drive gear. I put it back on same as it came apart but I can't figure out exactly what it's purpose is.

You're right nothing beats firing it up the first time!

The 009L was given to me ten years ago, it appears to be a 1994. It only needed a carb adjust at the time, and has been a perfect little saw for me, still runs great. I'm thinking I may give it this treatment before long who knows lol. It's pretty stout for its little package. Don't have a clue how you'd go about doing a muffler mod on it, I'll have to Google it and get some ideas. Nice saw for what it is though.
 
The metal tang drives the oil pump. It should fit in the slot on the clutch drum. It can be tricky but its a stihl check your spacing . Don't mess with the 009l just give gas.
 

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