Need a limbing saw

[cookies]

I think a ms194t or ms194ce would be right up your alley or spend 100 bucks to rebuild your poulan . I'd lean towards the 194ce unless you climb, it will be much easier on your arms, hands and wrists with the added leverage the rear handle provides.

 

[Tom6390]

Hello, I need a light weight saw that will be used for limbing the trees I fall for my sawmill. I currently own all Husky's and have been happy with them. I am curious about the Echo 4910 50cc saw for this task as it seems to be a great saw for the 380 dollar money with a great power to weight ratio at only 10.5 pounds.

Not sure I need a 580 dollar 543XP for this task. Is the 543XP that much better of a saw?
Most the limbs are only 6" or less.

I bought a Husqvarna T435 for limbing and I love it. It was on sale at chainsaw direct for 349.00 with a 3/8x.50x12" bar.

 

[livemusic]

Top handle saws... be aware they can be more dangerous. Rear handle versions of the same saw are, generally, considered more appropriate for most of us. But I do have a super light Echo top handle that I bought for building trails because it is so incredibly light. Trailwork being on foot!

 

[computeruser]

I'm intrigued by the Echo 3510, as folks who have run it seem to like it. For your purposes, this might be a platform to try out, since the cost to play is so low. I'm half inclined to buy one myself, just to try it. The older Echo 400 is well regarded as a small saw/limbing saw, and it is a well-proven design. The Echo 390sx, which we can't get in the US, seems really intriguing - magnesium case, bolt-on cylinder, basically a downsized Echo 501.

I've never been impressed with the performance of Stihl MS 170/180/192,3,4, but others swear by these saws for smaller diameter cutting.

The Dolmar/Makita 40cc saws are widely regarded as solid performers. I owned one once but sold it while still NIB, so I have no runtime on it. But my other Dolmars have been great, so I see no reason to doubt that those ones wouldn't be, too. Same with the now NLA-in-USA Stihl 241. The US market just doesn't seem to understand 40cc pro saws, for whatever reason.

Do you need a 543xp? Honestly, probably not. MSRP on that saw is nuts, and unless you need it for the type of cutting you're doing (e.g. the stuff that the old 238/242 was uniquely good at compared to 50cc saws), the economic angle is going to scare most people away from it. I have one, ported by mweba, that is my primary saw now. Fantastic machine with great handling, but I understand that purchase cost + shipping + porting + shipping home is not for the casual user of 40cc saws.

 

[odinandrota]

Top handle saws... be aware they can be more dangerous. Rear handle versions of the same saw are, generally, considered more appropriate for most of us. But I do have a super light Echo top handle that I bought for building trails because it is so incredibly light. Trailwork being on foot!

After more research I am thinking about buying a small cheap $100 top handle saw to live in the Ranger, and carry on the tractor. This would let me try out a top handle saw and have a cheap small saw for random trail clearing and random unexpected chores.

I am leaning toward a Echo 4910-16 or a 3510 or 310 for my limbing saw to replace my Wild thing. I will go check out the 200 rental homed depot Makita # EA4300F40BQ. Thanks for all the reply's.

 

[computeruser]

After watching some video's I am intrigued by top handle saws. They look so compact and handy for hauling around on the quad/tractor for random trail maintenance. I wonder how something like a Echo 355 T would work for limbing branches 6" and under?

​

It would work well, if compactness is your priority. For the use you describe, it might well be. The CS 361p, which is the tail handle version (more or less) of the 355t, would probably be easier on the wrists and forearms than the top handle version if used a lot.

 

[Tulameendude]

I use a Stihl MS261 Small, 20" bar, Light and lots of power for liming

 

[odinandrota]

Thanks for all the reply's. After much research I ordered the Echo 4910 with a 16" bar. I like that it is so light at 10.4# for a 50cc saw.I am also gonna buy a cheap small top handle saw maybe the Neo-Tec 12" to carry around in my Ranger on the property.

 

[JoeMay]

You want the lightest of lightweight, the Echo 2511! For bigger, Echo 4910 looks really good.

My Makita ea4300 is a fantastic saw, I forget the equivalent in Dolmar brand. Probably about the same as a Stihl 241. Really cool saw.

Dolmar

You want the lightest of lightweight, the Echo 2511! For bigger, Echo 4910 looks really good.

My Makita ea4300 is a fantastic saw, I forget the equivalent in Dolmar brand. Probably about the same as a Stihl 241. Really cool saw.

Dolmar PS421 is the equivalent. I have one. Cut the cat out of the muffler, converted to a rim sprocket, went to a 0.325 narrow kerf chain running on an Oregon bar. It’s a gem for falling and bucking small stuff, and limbing.

 

[Evan]

Very impressed with the stihl 170 I just worked on. Muff modded it and holy **** it cuts well.
Im not much for a limbing saw but id I was it would be a old 026 or possibly a 170.

Though normaly it makes no sence to fell a tree climb down the hill to get a limbing saw then back up. Usually have it limbed before id be back with the small saw.

Not to mention a healthy 70cc is fast in the limbs and limbs flush easier since bar is sliding on tree smacking limbs off, with those harley throttle blips

 

[singinwoodwackr]

As you will find out from the thread recommended by @SimonHS, some of us are somewhat "enthusiastic" about the "perfect limbing saw".
Based on the description of the trees that you are dealing with, and your need for lightweight, and what I sense is some experience with saws (so you have an expectation for some performance), the MS241 is power for pound, almost impossible to beat, has very good balance, and it runs a narrow-kerf blade/chain so it has to cut less wood-width which means it cuts faster than a similar powered saw with a normal blade/chain. They tend to be hard to come by as they are no longer sold in the US. Here is a recent thread from a guy who just imported one from the UK who should be able to help you out - https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/help-me-find-nos-ms-241cm.363560/

As an aging non-professional, yet experienced wood gatherer, many years ago I settled on a rear handled MS200 with a light weight 16" bar (also narrow-kerf) to do just what I expect you used to do with your WildThing, and I am dealing with much the same size trees as you described.
I still think the MS200 rear-handle has the best combination of balance, control, power and reach for limbing of any saw I have used for my sawing needs. (and IMO that combination is a good recipe for safe sawing for aging saw users who may not have the same strength and stamina as they used to have)
Today's version of the MS200 is the MS201, which is available in a rear-handle, and you might want to add it to your list of saws to consider. Be prepared to spend some money, as these are prof-saws and not cheap.

I suggest you further define/explain "your sawing needs" and your "experience and expectations" to this group of saw fanatics, and they will jump to help you find the right solution.

FYI, my MS200, 012AV and MSE200 all share the same bar and chain configuration so I can sharpen/swap chains at my leasure.

​

Lone wolf has them every now and then.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

“Limbing” can be quite relative. Are you talking straight pole tree or more of a big bush? Huge difference, imo. Eastern Oak vs West coast oak is a good example. Straight pole…use your felling saw. Bush…16” is much easier to maneuver when disassembling a big bushy tree like a valley Oak Where you are trying to untangle a zillion scraggly branches With nothing more than 20” is straight.
my choice is my Dozer Dan 346xp

 

[odinandrota]

“Limbing” can be quite relative. Are you talking straight pole tree or more of a big bush? Huge difference, imo. Eastern Oak vs West coast oak is a good example. Straight pole…use your felling saw. Bush…16” is much easier to maneuver when disassembling a big bushy tree like a valley Oak Where you are trying to untangle a zillion scraggly branches With nothing more than 20” is straight.
my choice is my Dozer Dan 346xp

"Bushy" hickory's and oaks is where I get a workout with the 262 and 372, the tall pines are easy. Also for land clearing trees a little to big for the clearing saw, mostly oaks and winged elms 4" and up.

The 265 clearing saw will take down a 6" hardwood, but it quickly dulls the blade so I use a chainsaw on those. Walking to change saws is not a issue as the Ranger is close by with everything.

 

[Evan]

Use other treese

 

[link]

LIMBING, MY MOST USED SAW IS AN ECHO 280T.
But, a 241cm will serve you well - also as a felling/bucking saw for small to medium sized wood.

You already have a felling and bucking saw? I,d say get a top handle...
Cheap might last you a long time, expensive gets you cred at the forum. Your choice buddy...

 

[Chucksta]

For me, limbing ( 6 inches or less), is always done with the Echo 355T ( top handle). I've got three of them... Well, actually 2 and a parts one ( it "fell" 80 ft. out of a tree.), it wasn't worth fixing, so parts donner it became for the other two. Sure ... the manual says that you always have to have two hands on the saw at all times.. Ummm yeah... right. The top handle makes it sssooooo easy to grab a branch with one hand, and cut it with the saw, due to the difference in balance of a top handle design. As I'm older than dirt, I really appreciate having the limb in my hand to toss where I want it, and not having to bend over and pick it up, as the ground seems to get further and further away every year. And, at the end of the day, the light weight and balance causes so much less user fatigue, that even if it takes a second or two more for a larger cut, it's more than worth it. Taking down a Birch, or other softwood that is less than a foot across? I don't even bother with any of the ****** saws in my collection, I just let the 355T eat. It'll go bar deep, and spit chunks.

Small saw? 35 CCs is a fairly large engine for something that small. Only thing wrong with it ( other than needing a muffler mod, just like everything else), is the factory chain set up. I swapped out to a Stihl chain, and they both chew wood like a rabid beaver on crack. They've both had the living snot beaten out of them, and they just won't die. Well one died, I thought it had seized, as I couldn't pull the starter cord out, turned out that the coil bolts had backed out... I tossed some thread sealer on it, gapped it with a business card, and it's been fine ever since.

Register it a a consumer purchase, and you get a five year warranty.

Best saw in the world? Ahhhh... no, but IMHO, an amazing bang for the buck. Everyone who has ever had it in their hand has had the same reaction.. "Damn, this is amazing!"

For even more fun, check out the X series, 2511T.

 

[odinandrota]

For me, limbing ( 6 inches or less), is always done with the Echo 355T ( top handle). I've got three of them... Well, actually 2 and a parts one ( it "fell" 80 ft. out of a tree.), it wasn't worth fixing, so parts donner it became for the other two. Sure ... the manual says that you always have to have two hands on the saw at all times.. Ummm yeah... right. The top handle makes it sssooooo easy to grab a branch with one hand, and cut it with the saw, due to the difference in balance of a top handle design. As I'm older than dirt, I really appreciate having the limb in my hand to toss where I want it, and not having to bend over and pick it up, as the ground seems to get further and further away every year. And, at the end of the day, the light weight and balance causes so much less user fatigue, that even if it takes a second or two more for a larger cut, it's more than worth it. Taking down a Birch, or other softwood that is less than a foot across? I don't even bother with any of the ****** saws in my collection, I just let the 355T eat. It'll go bar deep, and spit chunks.

Small saw? 35 CCs is a fairly large engine for something that small. Only thing wrong with it ( other than needing a muffler mod, just like everything else), is the factory chain set up. I swapped out to a Stihl chain, and they both chew wood like a rabid beaver on crack. They've both had the living snot beaten out of them, and they just won't die. Well one died, I thought it had seized, as I couldn't pull the starter cord out, turned out that the coil bolts had backed out... I tossed some thread sealer on it, gapped it with a business card, and it's been fine ever since.

Register it a a consumer purchase, and you get a five year warranty.

Best saw in the world? Ahhhh... no, but IMHO, an amazing bang for the buck. Everyone who has ever had it in their hand has had the same reaction.. "Damn, this is amazing!"

For even more fun, check out the X series, 2511T.

I already ordered a Echo 4910 with a 16" bar to replace my Wild thing. I am picking out a cheap $100 top handle saw to keep in my ranger and try out for some limbing and trimming. If the top handle works out well I will probably get a better one in the future.

 

[JKendrick87]

If I was going to spend much over 400, I would buy either the 543XP, or the 550 XP. I had just read a lot of good things about the Echo 4910, and a good 50cc saw that weighs 10.5# for under 400 sounded like a deal.

But the Husky XP equipment has treated me really well.

I think you may be disappointed in the 4910 stock. Seems that it takes a muffler mod to really shine. If you’re a Husky guy I would say stick with what you know, heard lots of good things about the new 550xp.

 

[odinandrota]

I think you may be disappointed in the 4910 stock. Seems that it takes a muffler mod to really shine. If you’re a Husky guy I would say stick with what you know, heard lots of good things about the new 550xp.

The 550XP is a really nice saw, but almost twice as much at $670. The muffler mod and carb mods on the 4910 are not a problem as a lifelong mechanic/hot rodder. Probably take me about an hour in the shop.

 

[Chucksta]

Sometimes, used makes sense.. I've got 2 Echo 355Ts'.. One is a couple of years older than the other. They both run fine, but the older one starts ( pops), on the first pull, and fires with the choke pushed in, on the next pull. The other one, is two or three pulls to get the "pop", and then it starts on the second pull... every time.. The first one, needs zero warm up, it's good to go as soon as it starts. ( I don't work it cold, I give it a minute to warm up, but it'll take throttle as soon as it starts). The second one, a couple of years older, starts with a couple more pulls, but won't take throttle for at least 30 seconds when its cold outside. Perhaps a different carb due to emissions?..

But, either way, I've got older saws that run like bears, and are worth more than I paid for them, or more than they were worth new.. Sometimes, used, and putting some bucks into it, might be the best way to go. Effin C.A.R.B. put such a screwing into small hand helds.. Grrrr.