Need advice on new medium size chainsaw

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sdnomad

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I am looking at upgrading from my Husky 50 3.0CI .325 18" saw for firewood cutting to a newer model. I am mainly interested in upgrading power and cutting speed while maintaining the same weight of saw that I have. I cut ponderosa pine, and hardwood when I can. Anyway I am interested in less weight and more power like everyone else. I was thinking of going with a Husky 359 but after handling one with a 20" bar, it seemed a bit heavier than I'm use to. After reading everyones comments on the Dolmar 5100, I am beginning to lean towards purchasing a 5100. My hangup on the Dolmar is that there is no Dolmar dealers near me. And many of the Dolmar dealers that I've called from Dolmar's website are not even sure if they are a Dolmar dealer or they are no longer a Dolmar dealer. And then I see that Dolmar's posted weights are without sprocket cover and sprocket cover nuts, so how light is the 5100 REALLY in comparison to Husky's posted weights. Then I have heard some folks say stay with a .325 pitch chain instead of the 3/8 pitch because you will get more teeth which means faster cutting.

The main questions I have are:
1) What saw would you recommend for what I want to do?

2) What chain pitch should I get and why?

3) Would I have a tough time finding bars and chains that fit a Dolmar saw?

4) Are the weight and power specs on the Dolmar equal in comparison to a Husky?
 
I am looking at upgrading from my Husky 50 3.0CI .325 18" saw for firewood cutting to a newer model. I am mainly interested in upgrading power and cutting speed while maintaining the same weight of saw that I have. I cut ponderosa pine, and hardwood when I can. Anyway I am interested in less weight and more power like everyone else. I was thinking of going with a Husky 359 but after handling one with a 20" bar, it seemed a bit heavier than I'm use to. After reading everyones comments on the Dolmar 5100, I am beginning to lean towards purchasing a 5100. My hangup on the Dolmar is that there is no Dolmar dealers near me. And many of the Dolmar dealers that I've called from Dolmar's website are not even sure if they are a Dolmar dealer or they are no longer a Dolmar dealer. And then I see that Dolmar's posted weights are without sprocket cover and sprocket cover nuts, so how light is the 5100 REALLY in comparison to Husky's posted weights. Then I have heard some folks say stay with a .325 pitch chain instead of the 3/8 pitch because you will get more teeth which means faster cutting.

The main questions I have are:
1) What saw would you recommend for what I want to do?

Skip the 359. Nice saw, but by the time you get done buying a non-cat muffler for your brand new saw, you might as well buy the 357xp. Also consider the Stihl MS361, it's in the same league as the 357xp.

Skip the Dolmar if dealer support is an issue for you.


2) What chain pitch should I get and why?

3/8" pitch is the better choice on these saws. They have the power to pull it, so go for it, and enjoy the benefits of having more chain types available to you.


3) Would I have a tough time finding bars and chains that fit a Dolmar saw?

Dolmar uses the small Husqvarna mount on the 460/510/5100s series, the Echo mount on their small saws like the 3410, 401, etc., and the large Husqvarna mount on the 6400-7900. Can't get more readily available than those bar mounts...except maybe at a Stihl-only shop.


4) Are the weight and power specs on the Dolmar equal in comparison to a Husky?

In my hands the 5100 is lighter and more nimble than the 357xp/359 and the MS361, but not by that much of a margin once you slap a 20" solid bar on. Unless you're going to be carrying the saw through the woods, mile after mile, I wouldn't get too bent out of shape over a couple ounces, bar cover on/bar cover off measurements, and whatnot.
 
I'd steer clear of the Dolmar alos with th dealer issues you are facing. Bars are easy, but clutchs, filters etc., would have to be mail order without a good dealer!

In that lineup there are huge numbers of saws to choose from!!! On the small size, you have the Husky 346xp, 353, and my favorite (price per pound, bang for buck saw) the 350. I am on the fence with the 359, good saw, but seems to be anemic without mods, according to others. The 357 seems to be a good runner, I would look and see if you couldn't find a 365 or 365/special sitting around on a dealers shelve. Good all around saw. Too big to be a big saw, too small to be a large saw, but great for firewood duties!!
In Stihl, you can start with the 260 and go all the way to the 440 and anything in between!!! Just a matter of how much you want to spend?

Any saw over 50cc's should be happier with 3/8's chain. It cutts faster and is a bit easier to sharpen. Check with you're local dealers on which gauge is common in you're area, and get a bar to match that, nothing like needing a loop of chain RIGHT NOW and having to special order it!
Good luck whith you're search.
 
Skip the 359. Nice saw, but by the time you get done buying a non-cat muffler for your brand new saw, you might as well buy the 357xp. Also consider the Stihl MS361, it's in the same league as the 357xp.

.

I am going to pass on the Dolmar although I'm sure it is a good saw. I looked around locally today at Stihl and I believe right now it is between the MS280 and the MS361. I'm impressed with the feel and the specs on the MS361. Sure like the 361's weight to power ratio, decompression feature it has for starting, anti-vibe design, etc. I think for the added benefits you get with the 361, its worth the extra $150 over the MS280. When you plan to own it for the next 20-30 years you just as well spend the extra $150 to get the additional features. One dealer quoted me $575 for a MS361 with a 20" bar and he would throw in a case and spare chain.
 
I'm in the same boat as you as far as Dolmar go's. No dealer support in my area. I also like sawinredneck's idea about finding a Husky 365 Special (don't look at my signature!). I like the way Husky's feel, and if I was only going to own one chain saw it'd be a Husky 357XP with an 18 bar and chain. With that said, if you like the feel of the Stihl MS361 you can't go wrong. It's an outstanding chain saw that should last you a very long time if you take care of it! ;)
 
I think "feel" is a LOT more important than the specs!! I handle a 570 and an ms390, the 570 is listed as lighter, but the390 "felt" lighter and balancd better to me. If it doesn't feel right, and balance good to you, it's no good, you won't want to run it!
 
I am going to pass on the Dolmar although I'm sure it is a good saw. I looked around locally today at Stihl and I believe right now it is between the MS280 and the MS361. I'm impressed with the feel and the specs on the MS361. Sure like the 361's weight to power ratio, decompression feature it has for starting, anti-vibe design, etc. I think for the added benefits you get with the 361, its worth the extra $150 over the MS280. When you plan to own it for the next 20-30 years you just as well spend the extra $150 to get the additional features. One dealer quoted me $575 for a MS361 with a 20" bar and he would throw in a case and spare chain.

It is definately worth the extra money to get the 361 over the 280 and that sounds like a good package deal. Go for it.
 
I think its worth having the 361, if you can and want to spend the cash on it. It will serve you well.


Speaking of, I almost want to get a 361 and put a 3/4 wrap on it (probably send it off) and keep a 24" bar on it. Call that my big-mid size saw. Leave my 361 I have now the hell alone and keep the 20" bar on it.
 
there ya go

I think "feel" is a LOT more important than the specs!! I handle a 570 and an ms390, the 570 is listed as lighter, but the390 "felt" lighter and balancd better to me. If it doesn't feel right, and balance good to you, it's no good, you won't want to run it!

That is very good advice to take, there is no substitute for hands on examination.

You can beat it to death on a keyboard over and over, but FEELING RIGHT to you is an important part of the equation!!

Chuck
 
My opinion is dealer support is not all that important, IF you take care of your saw...and don't have to use it all the time. Take that statement with a grain of salt, as personally, I'm a pro, have a lot of saws, and can do much work on them myself. I don't mind ordering Husky/Dolmar parts from Bailey's.....

Anyhow, the Dolmar 5100 is SUCH a good saw, and low priced, that it is really worth considering. It is about 1/2 pound heavier than the 346/260.It is a pound lighter than a 361/357/359, and in a slightly smaller package. Stock it will blow away that old 50, and probably cut with a 359, and only lag the 361 and 357 by a bit. It is also noticably faster than a 346XP or 260 Stihl. And one of the best saws I've ever run! Here's a paste from another thread:

Here's a video of 7 cuts...of my new 5100S Dolmar and the 16 month old one that is woods modded by Ed Heard. I have the pipe on it right now. Timing is a very close estimate from the video data.

In order, on the video, piped saw 4.0, stock saw 5.85, then two more, but close to a knot, piped 5.7, stock-8.15.

stock saw with ported muffler 7.9, piped 5.6 bogged a bit, and 5.5 higher revs.

The piped saw is 16 months old, and was woods modded by Ed Heard. It is running 16 inch bar/3/8th chisel, half round ground and half square--I forgot to square file the first half--new chain just a bit dulled.

Stock saw is 16 inch bar, and .325 chisel, round filed.

This is not as precise as many folks do timing and testing..with a good solid log, and the same wood..no knots.

But what I deduced was that the stock 5100 is one fast saw, as I've always heard. What is interesting is that it didn't seem to cut much faster when I put the ported muffler on it. But I did neglect to richen the mixture...perhaps it was too lean.

<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rrPcNNsN27g"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rrPcNNsN27g" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>
 
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That is very good advice to take, there is no substitute for hands on examination.

You can beat it to death on a keyboard over and over, but FEELING RIGHT to you is an important part of the equation!!

Chuck


Chuck,

I went to my local Helpful Hardware Man that I frequent often and he made me a good deal on a MS361 with 18" bar for $540. Plus for an extra 30 bucks he will throw in a saw case, extra chain, $20 file set, 1gal. chain oil, and a 6 pack of 2.5gal gas mix. I think it sometimes helps to go where they recognize your face. Plus I belong to what's called a Dealpass club where I can get department store gift cards at 80% of face value, which brought the price down to $432 for a MS361, and $456 for the complete package. Close to the retail price of a Dolmar 5100. I'm thinking I would like to get a spare 24" bar chain combo for those times I get into larger diameter trees.
 
In my hands the 5100 is lighter and more nimble than the 357xp/359 and the MS361, but not by that much of a margin once you slap a 20" solid bar on. Unless you're going to be carrying the saw through the woods, mile after mile, I wouldn't get too bent out of shape over a couple ounces, bar cover on/bar cover off measurements, and whatnot.

The Dolmar is just slightly lighter than the 361, and heavier than the Husky 50. The choise of bars will make a big impact on how they feel in the woods, compared to each other.

The 359/357xp is much heavier than Husky admits, and the 5100 a bit heavier than Dolmar admits. The 361 is right on the mark.

There is no really good answer to the original question - more power is easy, but combined with less weight is another story - well, maybe 346xp, but they also have limitations, as the power is very rpm dependant.

My best judgement says that there is not that much nimbleness differense between the 5100 and the 361, given what bars are easily availiable for both (Rollomatic E vs Oregon Pro-Lite) - personally I would take the 361 most days, even though the 5100 is a real cool saw to use.....
 
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Chuck,

I went to my local Helpful Hardware Man that I frequent often and he made me a good deal on a MS361 with 18" bar for $540. Plus for an extra 30 bucks he will throw in a saw case, extra chain, $20 file set, 1gal. chain oil, and a 6 pack of 2.5gal gas mix. I think it sometimes helps to go where they recognize your face. Plus I belong to what's called a Dealpass club where I can get department store gift cards at 80% of face value, which brought the price down to $432 for a MS361, and $456 for the complete package. Close to the retail price of a Dolmar 5100. I'm thinking I would like to get a spare 24" bar chain combo for those times I get into larger diameter trees.

Woooowwwww, nice, nice deal. Here they want $599 for a 361 with 20" bar and spare chain and they won't budge on price. One place, I have spent about $9K on power equipment the past 2 years in their shop and they won't budge. "Sorry, Stihl products sell at full price."

BTW, I've been through Rapid City twice on my way deer hunting in Wyoming. Nice place.
 
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Narrowed choices.

Get a 5100S or go a bit bigger and spend a bit more on a 361.
18" bar on the 5100 or a 20"(possibly 25") bar on the 361.
Just my opinion.

Mitch
 
Chuck,

I went to my local Helpful Hardware Man that I frequent often and he made me a good deal on a MS361 with 18" bar for $540. Plus for an extra 30 bucks he will throw in a saw case, extra chain, $20 file set, 1gal. chain oil, and a 6 pack of 2.5gal gas mix. I think it sometimes helps to go where they recognize your face. Plus I belong to what's called a Dealpass club where I can get department store gift cards at 80% of face value, which brought the price down to $432 for a MS361, and $456 for the complete package. Close to the retail price of a Dolmar 5100. I'm thinking I would like to get a spare 24" bar chain combo for those times I get into larger diameter trees.

$432 for just the 361 and $456 for that saw plus accessories? :dizzy: I couldn't walk away from a deal like that!

A MS361 -especially with a -simple & relatively cheap- muffler mod will stand up to a 24" bar/skip chain setup for occasional use... IMO much better than the 5100 or 359 would.
 
$432 for just the 361 and $456 for that saw plus accessories? :dizzy: I couldn't walk away from a deal like that!

A MS361 -especially with a -simple & relatively cheap- muffler mod will stand up to a 24" bar/skip chain setup for occasional use... IMO much better than the 5100 or 359 would.

The Gift Card Club I belong to is what makes it that price. I would still jump on the deal for the store price of $570 with accessories, without the gift card club discount. But I should have mentioned, the darn club charges $15 a month to be in.

I'm pretty good at working on my own equipment so I think I could get away with having a 24" bar for use on occasions. But it is good to know I should think about adjusting the mixture if I do swap back and forth between different length bars.
 
... But it is good to know I should think about adjusting the mixture if I do swap back and forth between different length bars.

That is a valid point, may I suggest getting a tach? - I just did, and it sure is handy, also when changing setups. It takes the guesswork out of the game......:clap: :clap:

Imo, the best "allround" setup on the 361 is a 18" Rollomatic E (not ES), 3/8"x7, and RSC chain. Keep at least one RM handy, if you cut some dirty wood from time to time.:)

Longer or heavier (ES and off-brand) bars compromize balanse (and weight), and should imo only be used when really needed.
 
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That is a valid point, may I suggest getting a tach? - I just did, and it sure is handy, also when changing setups. It takes the guesswork out of the game......:clap: :clap:

Imo, the best "allround" setup on the 361 is a 18" Rollomatic E (not ES), 3/8"x7, and RSC chain. Keep at least one RM handy, if you cut some dirty wood from time to time.:)

Longer or heavier (ES and off-brand) bars compromize balanse (and weight), and should imo only be used when really needed.

Thanks for the great advice. What are the tachs that you recommend and where do you find them?
 
Thanks for the great advice. What are the tachs that you recommend and where do you find them?


I got mine (PET 2000) from AS members Cuttinscott and 166 at The Cutting Edge, by mail - it seems to work very well, but I have no others to compare to.
 
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