Yep, it wicks well and is a pretty good lube. My neighbor showed me the trick, it's his secret weapon for removing broken hardware.
need advice removing 372XP clutch
- Thread starter flatsfisher
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Last ditch effort air hammer the damn thing with a dull bit.
assume you heat the part first then let it melt in?
You have an air hammer?
my trip to Orlando got postponed as my granddaughter tested pos for covid yesterday afternoon. I don't hide from that crap but no sense walking into it. good news is I got to do some work. tried the heat with crayon, no go. turns out my mistake was not stuffing enough of the line inro the cylinder to stop the piston bounce. there is a pretty big area above the piston and it just needed more I guess.
piston is roached. I knew that already just looking in the ports and plug hole. a lot of erosion around the top edge, esp on the exhaust side. rings are stuck but not melted in.
crank was notchy to turn but got somewhat easier when these little pieces of steel came out of the crankcase. thinking they may be bearing parts? the rings aren't broken. they stick to a magnet. bearings don't feel good and takes some effort to turn the crank all the way around.
the miracle of this story is the cylinder. amazing. some vertical marks but can't feel them with my fingers, nails or a dental pick.
cleaned it up a bit.
rngrchad
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Heck yeh, good job getting the clutch off! Id still rather have that saw in that condition than any of the best of the best oem converted chinese lookalikes that all these guys seem to slobber over!!
thank you to all. all the suggestions were good. I'm amazed how a slight bounce could negate the torque and hit of that bad ass impact gun. and maybe the heat and crayon did end up helping in the end, who knows. splitting the cases next. hoping the rod bearings are good and it's just the bearings. 
technically it cost me 41.66 if I divide the 3 saws by what I paid (plus 1/3 of the gas driving a 40-minute round trip). the PM1000 fires up, just been waiting forever for the carb check valve I ordered. the MS440 is all apart. the crank is great, but the cylinder and piston turned out to be aftermarket dammit. the cylinder is painted black and has no markings. I need to get around to comparing the ports to one of my 044 OEM cylinders. just for fun.
A build thread on this will get a lot of attention, there's a lot of guys here with some good suggestions to help with the build! Definitely split the cases and make yerself a saw youll keep and use with confidence .
Thanks, grizz. I think it's a doable project. hopefully the crank is good. it's all going to be OEM parts except possibly the new plastics (just can't bring myself to not replace that stuff LOL. If there are good aftermarket plastics, I may look at that. on the Stihls I redid, I even used OEM plastic. just have to get it completely apart and access the damage. here it is when I bought it.
Nice yellow 30 pounder! I like to crank the 1/2 inch air impact to 90psi with trigger pulled and no piston stop.Works well for me so far.I bet using an impact socket for the clutch tool would lessen the wasted flexing that goes on with the thin wall regular sockets (just thinking out loud).
Bearings are shot for certain. Bearing debris is what damaged the piston crown.
there was no flex. didn't even mark it up.
ha ha. 18lbs powerhead only. not sure what the 3-foot bar and chain weigh.
thats what I was thinking. hope that trash didn't bin the crank.
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