need advice removing 372XP clutch

[grizz55chev]

thats what I was thinking. hope that trash didn't bin the crank.

The big end rod bearing will be hard to tell, look for bluing and make yer diagnosis from there. Be a shame to build it and not trust it. The plastics are not in that bad of shape, might just clean and shine em and rum with it! Just my 2 pennies worth.

 

[bwalker]

thats what I was thinking. hope that trash didn't bin the crank.

Crank is shot if not the source of the debris. I would bet it's the big end bearing that caused the carnage.

 

[flatsfisher]

Crank is shot if not the source of the debris. I would bet it's the big end bearing that caused the carnage.

 

[oldbuzzard]

95% come loose with my 1/4”18v impact. A few need the 1/2” 18v. A few need the 1/2” air impact. I’ve also removed the cylinder and stopped the crank with a screwdriver handle and used a 1/2” ratchet with a cheater pipe. Never seen one that wouldn’t come off.

Sometimes the bounce works against the impacts and you need to use the manual methods

Different question but on the same dilemma - I‘ve managed to successfully remove a lot of difficult clutches, usually by going through a similar sequence as you describe. But I’ve got an Echo 590 that is giving me fits (I just bought a 2’ 1/2 “ drive that will probably get it). But my question isn’t how to get it off.
I had just rebuilt the saw, basically converting it to a 620P. This included replacing the oil pump so the clutch had just been off. I had cut with the saw it putting maybe two tanks of gas through it one morning and it ran fine but had a bad oil leak. I went to pull the clutch and it was a no-go!! I would never tighten a clutch down very much on reinstallation so I can’t figure out what happened with this one.
So my question is this - does anyone ever reassemble the clutch to shaft and use any anti seize compound?

 

[flatsfisher]

I'll defer to the experts, but I've worked on a fair number of saws and read the service manuals in the process. never have I seen instructions to use anti seize.

 

[grizz55chev]

I'll defer to the experts, but I've worked on a fair number of saws and read the service manuals in the process. never have I seen instructions to use anti seize.

Nope, never used antiseize, but I have sent the clutch spinning into infinity by starting the saw and reving it to test the operation of said saw without the clutch cover on! I bet that's happened to a lot of people at least once!

 

[ZeroJunk]

Nope, never used antiseize, but I have sent the clutch spinning into infinity by starting the saw and reving it to test the operation of said saw without the clutch cover on! I bet that's happened to a lot of people at least once!

LOL. Me too. OOOPS .

I just use a about a two foot cheater myself to get a clutch off.

 

[quattro.pilot]

The plastics are not in that bad of shape, might just clean and shine em and rum with it! Just my 2 pennies worth.

I tend to agree... I'd clean them up, add new decals (maybe..maybe not), and rock the faded multi-orange Husky plastics. No better way to show off that a guy has a well-used well-loved husqvarna. adds to the character

With respect to the clutch, I know you eventually did win out, for what it's worth I don't like hitting the clutch with a heavy impact -gun- in order to break it loose. Something about the hammering action and the jarring & piston bouncing transmitted through the crankshaft just doesn't sit right with me. I love your homemade socket, I always do the same, but I use a breaker bar with a snipe (if necessary) to apply a large amount of gentle torque and just lean on it until it cracks loose. I go between the rope-stop method and a homemade piston stop tool however I find my tool marks up the top of the piston even though I've tried to angle and smooth all the edges. The rope problem I do find it can bounce or not really compress properly. I do similar practices when it comes to taking off the flywheel nut too although on that side I'm more prone to using a 3/8" 18v impact gun and just giving it a very quick blast.... anyhow just my 2cents since you posted on a public forum it's my right to tell you what I think

 

[lone wolf]

I'll defer to the experts, but I've worked on a fair number of saws and read the service manuals in the process. never have I seen instructions to use anti seize.

https://lubricantsadvisor.com/when-to-use-anti-seize/#Potential_Problems_with_Using_Anti_Seize

 

[9050LX]

there was no flex. didn't even mark it up.

I am going to buy a yard sale 11/16 or so impact socket ( Maybe a Snap-on just because) to convert to a clutch socket.Will let everyone know how it works.

 

[flatsfisher]

I am going to buy a yard sale 11/16 or so impact socket ( Maybe a Snap-on just because) to convert to a clutch socket.Will let everyone know how it works.

I would go at least 1". I just used an old taiwan made 1 1/16 that was lying in my never use again bin. worked fine. an impact socket is going to be more work to cut. thicker and likely hardened differently. I cut mine on my milling machine and the nice cutter I used didn't like it. probably dull now.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I am going to buy a yard sale 11/16 or so impact socket ( Maybe a Snap-on just because) to convert to a clutch socket.Will let everyone know how it works.

I use 18mm…a useless size to me

 

[flatsfisher]

I use 18mm…a useless size to me

on a 372? I don't think that would even make it past the center to drop down in the slots.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

on a 372? I don't think that would even made it past the center to drop down in the slots.

Maybe not that particular saw but I’ve made a few for smaller clutches out of 18s.

Here is what I made for the 372.
SC pipe and a 3/4 nut. Worked fine.

 

[flatsfisher]

the case splitter I have only used only on Stihls so far would not fit in this saw. had to improvise with my dirt bike case splitter. once I got them apart I was able to use the Stihl splitter to push the crank out of the other half.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

the case splitter I have only used only on Stihls so far would not fit in this saw. had to improvise with my dirt bike case splitter. once I got them apart I was able to use the Stihl splitter to push the crank out of the other half.
View attachment 1123917View attachment 1123918

I had no trouble with the case splitter on the 372 I have, now in a box… weird. I did have to widen the forks a tad but I had to do that on the 2100 as well. Then bend them back for smaller saws. So far it has worked on everything I’ve used it on.

 

[flatsfisher]

the crank is fine! so happy. no play at all in the big end except the usual side to side, rotates smoothly and no discoloration.

 

[flatsfisher]

here's the culprit. the other one is all together but is also bad.

 

[flatsfisher]

blurry pictures today.

 

[flatsfisher]

I had no trouble with the case splitter on the 372 I have, now in a box… weird. I did have to widen the forks a tad but I had to do that on the 2100 as well. Then bend them back for smaller saws. So far it has worked on everything I’ve used it on.

I did have to widen the jaws when I used it on the other side. maybe just me. maybe if I'd widened them for the 1st try.