If this is going in yer herd of saws, I'd say why not. If you plan on flipping it, I'd recommend replacing it.
need advice removing 372XP clutch
- Thread starter flatsfisher
- Start date
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hmmm. haven't sold one yet but ya never know. I looked on ebay and all I see for crankshafts is aftermarket or used OEM.
that looks good to me.
thanks for an idea I'm gonna steal
steele_109
ArboristSite Operative
The jaws are suppose to hold the bearings in the crank case,Then you remove the bearings with heat about 300 degrees and the bearings will about fall out.Freeze your bearings stick them in the crank case while it's hot.If you get them started straight they will fall in.But at this point you have to act fast if they don't start straight you'll have beat it in with a bearing driver or a socket the size of the outside of the bearing.
YUP!Nope, never used antiseize, but I have sent the clutch spinning into infinity by starting the saw and reving it to test the operation of said saw without the clutch cover on! I bet that's happened to a lot of people at least once!
Husky77
ArboristSite Operative
100% spot on I would say bwalker. Would be a good project to strip and rebuild with new parts. I would do it, the saw would last years
as far as models go, I see 372XP and 372 XP X-torq. from reading I assume the X-torq is a strato saw and the XP is not. I've looked at a lot of pictures of 372 XP's during my parts search, and mine says air injection on the starter but most I see do not say that on the decal. I get what the air injection is, a cooling method for the cylinder and I assume all the 372 XP's have air injection. does the fact that mine says air injection on the decal make it an early model 372 XP?
Air Injection has nothing to donwith cooling as all chainsaws are fan cooled.
Rather it's a system of feeding cyclonicly seperated air too the air box to prolong air filter life.
did not know that. I watched a YouTube by husqvarna and I must have misunderstood. they had an animation and it looked like the air was moved by the flywheel thru a plastic horn and showed the air going to the cooling fins on the cylinder. I need to watch it again.
The air box draws suction from the flywheel such that the heavier saw dust particle are expelled over the cylinder fins and the relatively cleaner air does to the air box. Thus keeping the filter cleaner longer.
aha. thanks for clearing that up. I guess they just stopped printing "air injection" on the labels at some point.
my black tag has :
Husqvarna 372XP
965 70 23-10
01 1700 371
assume this is a 2001 production?
Husqvarna 372XP
965 70 23-10
01 1700 371
assume this is a 2001 production?
Dennbb
ArboristSite Member
For one, when you use rope to block the piston it cushions the impact. Kinda like a torq stick. You won't get full impact. I'd put a solid threaded plug in to stop the piston and use a breaker bar.
I've made a complete list of parts that are missing and parts that are worn out just or are prudent to replace while the saw is apart. of course, it's a lot more than I figured on, it always is 
. I'm going to use OEM for piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, all bearings and crank seals. to keep the cost down, may use after market for rubber parts and a few other things. hoping for some input from ya'll on some aftermarket stuff.
brake handle - are AM as robust as oem? do they flex more or break?
fuel tank - mine is missing most of the parts in with the trigger and the throttle cable doesn't look great. new AM ones come with all that plus new anti-vibe and fuel line and filter. plus, mine is just damn ugly. are they any good?
clutch - as mentioned above, broke the clutch when removing it plus the clutch drum and rim sprocket are worn badly. AM ok?
plastic - not sure if I'm going to do but probably. I'm a whore for my stuff looking good. is any AM brand better than another for fit and how thick or robust the parts are?
. I'm going to use OEM for piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, all bearings and crank seals. to keep the cost down, may use after market for rubber parts and a few other things. hoping for some input from ya'll on some aftermarket stuff.brake handle - are AM as robust as oem? do they flex more or break?
fuel tank - mine is missing most of the parts in with the trigger and the throttle cable doesn't look great. new AM ones come with all that plus new anti-vibe and fuel line and filter. plus, mine is just damn ugly. are they any good?
clutch - as mentioned above, broke the clutch when removing it plus the clutch drum and rim sprocket are worn badly. AM ok?
plastic - not sure if I'm going to do but probably. I'm a whore for my stuff looking good. is any AM brand better than another for fit and how thick or robust the parts are?
Good way to punch a hole in your piston.
Nachi or NTN will save you $ on bearings. Hiway gasket/seals are of good quality as well.
You could dye the plastic black so it all matched. AM plastic is fine but I try and limit it to top covers or air filter covers. AM tanks tend to leak at the seams and they usually need oem caps or at least new o rings or gaskets on the caps. And you’ll want to replace the AM fuel line with oem
You could dye the plastic black so it all matched. AM plastic is fine but I try and limit it to top covers or air filter covers. AM tanks tend to leak at the seams and they usually need oem caps or at least new o rings or gaskets on the caps. And you’ll want to replace the AM fuel line with oem
I was wondering about the seams on AM tanks. I've use NTN bearings on bench grinders, and they are well made.
I'd go with a OEM intake boot for certain.
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