Need help splitting case on my 066

[Lakeside53]

Yeah I had that too, but the iron was thick enough that it recessed up into that and then I had the added height from the nut that I welded on too. On a different note, how do I get the bearing off of the crank ? When I pressed it out it came out still pressed onto the crankshaft:help: See pic:

Yep.. That happens often on the flywheel side. The magnesium has little holding power. You need to mount the crank in a couple of blocks of wood in big vice - the blocks are positoned such that they stop the crank counter-weights from moving. Then use a TWO jaw puller (most three-jaws can be rearranged) and just pull off the bearing using the crank center for the puller pivot. Use a decent sized bar and apply constant pressure - no air tools - once it moves it will come of easily.



Like this - except I'm using soft-jaws, not wood in this case.

 

[SmokinDodge]

If you don't have a press to get the crank out of the other side

Look at the ignition side of the case - you'll see three small screw holes (M4) for the generator mount. Find a big THICK washer, drill three holes, mount it loose with long M4 screws, and then use a conventional 3 jaw puller hooked under the washer to PUSH the crank out. That's how I did it... for quite a while..


When you are ready to reassemble the case, if you have trouble, come back to this thread and I can step you though how to do that too with "non-stihl tools". basically using the clutch center and a series on short pipes to pull on the crank side... similar on the ignition side, then case screws to finally pull it all together.

BTW, post a pic of what you made!

Lake I was planning on just using an arbor press to press the bearings in the bore for 064 and freeze the crank over night to slide into the bearings. Does that sound like it would work? This 'should' be my only bearing job for some time.

 

[Lakeside53]

I haven't had any luck with freezing the stihl crank etc, and I don't go for heating the bearing center - differential heating is bad new for these deep roller bearings, and they have polymar cages....

You are MUCH better to "pull" the crank into the bearing. For the clutch side all you need is your clutch spider (center of clutch) and a few short lengths of pipe (with very flat and squared ends - use a lathe if you have one). Pop the pipe over the shaft until it is 3/4 of the way up the threads, thread on the clutch and tighten until it bottoms, then change the pipe insert to a longer piece and start again. Maybe 10 minutes of messing around and it's done.

You can do the same on the flywheel side or just use the three/four center case screws - may need longer screws - (small even adjustments please!) to pull the flywheel side onto the crank. If you do it this way, set your dowel pins just before you do the final tighten..

 

[Dan Forsh]

a few more bulletins for you

 

[Lakeside53]

The process continues... Assembly of the crankcase

Here's a few quick pics... yes, I did squirt a little touch-up paint on the casings and bake them at 225F for 30 minutes (convection oven..).

The new bearings are put back into the case halves.

Clutch side - I pressed it in at room temperature TOWARDS the inside of the case (strong flat surface to press against), then mounted the oil pump and gently pressed it back into position against the pump. If you do it towards the pump like the service manual says, it's almost impossible to get the press, case and bearing in the same plane, and the bearing will jamb... The factory has a back-stop that locks against the machined casing where the pump flange mounts to get the right depth. I don't.


Flywheel side - heated the casing to 302F for 20 minutes (convection oven - not radiant) and dropped the bearing into the recess.



Assembly -

Flywheel side. The stihl tool screws (with an adapter) onto the crank. You keep screwing and the crank is pulled though the bearing. Really easy..

Clutch side. Same idea - screw on an adapter onto the crank

Screw on the tool and turn it counter clockwise to pull the crank though the bearing and the crankcase together. I like to set the dowel pins so they just protrude, then punch then in just before the final tighten.

And here it is done... opps... These next two pics are really for another thread... how to determine you port timing the easy way... and look how small that squish is STOCK! And yes, that's with the gasket in... Note how it tapers AWAY from the edge...

More to come on this ... likely another thread...

 

[SmokinDodge]

Good looking work Lake. What kind of paint do you use? Is it similar in durability to the original?

 

[04ultra]

Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...




The key word is complete.......






.

 

[Lakeside53]

Good looking work Lake. What kind of paint do you use? Is it similar in durability to the original?

It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.

One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!

The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...

 

[04ultra]

It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.

One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!

The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...

Andy what about powder coat.....



.

 

[Lakeside53]

Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...


The key word is complete.......


.

It's happening... I figured I had enough 044/440/460 stuff lying around to build up a 440.. just needed a reason. It's got parts from Wagonwheeler (crushed 440), Rb_tree (junked 044 case), several unnamed sources (busted tank etc, but repairable)... and... with a little horse trading of some old 041 parts for a full warp handle and decent plastic..... But that's another thread... :biggrinbounce2: And as you know with my stuff, it will both look nice, and be be nice... Hmmm.. Might have to do a little port work with this :

 

[Trigger-Time]

Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...
The key word is complete.......
.

Yes, don't stop!

Somebody also needs to explain how the best way to save,the very valuable
information like this thread to there computer, I have been by going to
the printer view,copy and paste to Word Doc. then you can cut out BS post
like this one before you save or print it. If there is a better way I'm all
ears. Or start a new thread on how it should be done. (04ultra)

Lake, Very Very Good Thread! Thank you.

 

[Lakeside53]

Andy what about powder coat.....

.

Maybe, if you wanted to go though the prep issues.. tough to get it cleaned up enough, and masked, and..

There are plenty of decent epoxy paints available - just need color matching to Stihl gray.. Sure would look nice on a beat bar, or an 056mag2

 

[04ultra]

Andy can you send us all a hard copy.....


I have Classic Coatings only 4 miles away they are a big powder coater ... Im going to get prices on some prices real soon...






.

 

[Lakeside53]

Power coat doesn't like oil/grease or many old paints. Looks cool if you can get it on. Remember you have to block off ALL screw holes and mask all machined surfaces with tape that can handle the bake temperature.

 

[RiverRat2]

You Go Andy!!!!!

This Thread is very cool opcorn:

 

[04ultra]

Andy we need more pictures ....











.

 

[SmokinDodge]

It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.

One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!

The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...

Thanks for the wise words of caution. I'll have to check with my dealer on the poly paint. I'm not holding my breath on it though, they are kinda backwood. I can hear it now, "Why would you paint a saw?"

Despite my ribbing they are the best guys to deal with and very knowledgeable. They just don't get out much. :hmm3grin2orange:

Keep us updated on the build, this is the kind of info everybody (me) loves to see. :rockn:

 

[Lakeside53]

The gray is part number 0000 000 2102, and the orange 0000 000 2101

About $6.70 a can (you can do lots of saws with one can!)

 

[lumberjackchef]

Great info about the paint. I might as well slap a little on the case while waiting for all of my parts to arrive. My brother works in a window factory and runs the paint line. He has a computer there that can automatically match any color of paint. He offered to paint any saw that I needed to paint and they do run everything through an oven and bake it on as well. Would this be a good idea for something like my crankcase? what precautions would have to be taken? Any particular questions that I should ask if you think it would be worthwhile venture?

 

[Lakeside53]

Great info about the paint. I might as well slap a little on the case while waiting for all of my parts to arrive. My brother works in a window factory and runs the paint line. He has a computer there that can automatically match any color of paint. He offered to paint any saw that I needed to paint and they do run everything through an oven and bake it on as well. Would this be a good idea for something like my crankcase? what precautions would have to be taken? Any particular questions that I should ask if you think it would be worthwhile venture?

Mask all machined surfaces and the inside of the crankcase, and remove any rubber parts before baking... I even remove the oil tank vent (punches out)