New Chain Sharpener

[hammer0419]

Just placed my order for a Timberline system, extra 3/16" cutter and the 25/35 bushing. Can't wait for it to show up. Even got a nice $25 off Promo code!!!

 

[hammer0419]

Came home today to my new Timberline Sharpening system. Very impressive quality. Can not wait to try it out tomorrow.

 

[SierraWoodsman]

I installed the new pawl yesterday. I just used a small drill bit as the punch and then repressed the pin back in with a vise.

I also put in the 13/64 cutter and tried that.

Oh man, I tell you what. It was like cutting butter.

So, I dont know if that was from a new cutter or the 13/64 size.

I seemed to knock out an 84dl chain rather quick.

Again, a good product and a good company with really good customer service.

The 13/64" does make'm cut like "butter" doesen't it?

I believe the primary reason for increased cutting performance on the 13/64 carbide is due to slightly more agressive cutter geometry of top and side plates, But you have too keep in mind there are always "trade-offs" in Edge-Durability VS. Cutting Performance.

In the sharpening of Chisel bit chain the following applies In my experience Whether your using this tool or a file: If your using 3/8" Stihl RSC-you can use the 13/64 carbide from "new cutter" through "End of Life" and achieve better cutting performance throughout the life of the chain without the consequence of decreased durability. This is primarily because of the slightly shorter cutter "height". This is why Stihl recommends the 13/64 file on 3/8" RSC.

3/8" Oregon Chisel has a "taller" cutter, so your better sticking with 7/32" carbide until approx 1/3 cutter length left, then switch to 13/64" carbide to maitain high performance. By then the cutter height has decreased due to cutter slope. Using the 13/64 carbide too early on with new Oregon Chisel (such as LGX) will result in an aggressive, but excessively "Thin-Fragile" cutter-edge. It will cut like a "son-of-a-beach", but usually only for a short time. This is why Oregon recommends 7/32"

I didn't realize there was even a difference between the two types until putting the two brands cutters side by side and looking at them closely. I Have to give credit to "sawtroll" for helping me to understand the differences. I could tell the it made an improvment in performance, but didn't understand the reasons why.... Thanks ST

In using this sharpener I only wish that Timberline would have gone with a "Harder-more Wear resistant" material for the Guides. Mine haven't gotten sloppy yet, but I know the potential is there with soft aluminum as the material. At least the guides are inexpensive and easily replaced should they eventually wear out-"Keeping them well oiled should help a lot".

Overall I'm very pleased with the tool.

My 2 Cents.

 

[hammer0419]

Yesterday I had the chance to sharpen 2 chains and use them. The 2 chains I sharpened were in some rough shape after I butchered them with a grinder (boy did I suck with that machine!!). It took me a little to get things going smooth because my chains were so messed up and uneven. However, the Timberline Sharpener brought these chains back to life. I am VERY impressed with the results I got. Now that my chains are all even and cleaned up from using the Timberline, future sharpening should be a breeze. I ordered an extra sharpener but if these are quality carbide, they should last a very long time. The Timberline sharpener is a winner!!!

 

[Somesawguy]

How long are you guys finding that the carbide cutters hold up?

 

[hammer0419]

How long are you guys finding that the carbide cutters hold up?

I have not used it enough to tell. However, If it is made from a quality Tungsten Carbide it should last a LONG time. I am a part time knifemaker and use several carbide tools and they last an amazingly long time. Having experience with carbide I would expect to sharpen 100+ chains easly with 1 cutter. I did buy an extra cutters with my kit and would expect to sharpen a TON of chains with it. Reguardless......I really really like this system!!!!

 

[rwoods]

My Timberline came in the mail today. Thanks to all the posts, other than the fact that my SUV tailgate was a little too low for my back I had no problem sharpening 3 chains on 3 saws (two never re-sharpened and one that had seen my grinder a time or two). I did have a little trouble setting it up on an old bar I had inserted in a vice on the work bench but I got it sorted out okay and sharpened a loose loop. The work bench height was must easier on my back. I believe I'll be pleased with the results and that with practice things can only get better. Also with a little practice, I think it could be practical for touch ups in the field. It appears that if you can sharpen a pencil in a crank sharpener you should be able to use this device well. Ron

 

[rwoods]

First run

Today I used all three saws that I had sharpened the mounted chains with the Timberline. I have to say that I was more than pleased. I sharpen a couple of chains last night with my vice mounted bar but I was still having clearance troubles that I didn't experience on the saw mounted bars. I am not sure if it is the bar or me. I did note three other things: One, the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it but worst comes to worse, I will. Two, as noted by others a rocked chain is sharpened best with more than one pass. Three, also as noted by others, the reach of the bit varies between the two cutter sides; I like the longer reach better so I may modify mine, if I can, to be able to swap the jig to the other side. It looks like an easy modification. I may see or I may just get over it. Ron

 

[Philbert]

. . . the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it . . .

Maybe try some thin latex or nitrile surgical type gloves to shed the shavings, but let you keep the dexterity. They should hold up, and are pretty cheap compared to the annoyance of slivers.

Philbert

 

[benp]

Today I used all three saws that I had sharpened the mounted chains with the Timberline. I have to say that I was more than pleased. I sharpen a couple of chains last night with my vice mounted bar but I was still having clearance troubles that I didn't experience on the saw mounted bars. I am not sure if it is the bar or me. I did note three other things: One, the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it but worst comes to worse, I will. Two, as noted by others a rocked chain is sharpened best with more than one pass. Three, also as noted by others, the reach of the bit varies between the two cutter sides; I like the longer reach better so I may modify mine, if I can, to be able to swap the jig to the other side. It looks like an easy modification. I may see or I may just get over it. Ron

It's an easy mod. I had my machinist friend cut this in.

Interesting on the shrapnel you are picking up. I have had zero issues with that.

One thing I have noticed was that my original angle guides were getting a touch warbly.

So, I swapped in the 25/35 guides that I had. It did tighten things up a bit but something just aint quite a right especially because I am flipping the jig around.

I WISH they would mark one side or the other of the 25/35 guide to denote which angle it is.

Also, I think my last 7/32 cutter they sent isn't 7/32. It is taking quite a bit of sharpening before I am even able to touch up the angle of the top of the tooth. My last sharpening I did 4x per side and still wasn't really getting into the top of the tooth at all yet. That's been my biggest issue to date.

It might be from going from hand filed to the timberline but it shouldn't be that huge of a difference in my opinion.

Anyways, gonna keep at it.:msp_smile:

 

[rwoods]

Maybe try some thin latex or nitrile surgical type gloves to shed the shavings, but let you keep the dexterity. They should hold up, and are pretty cheap compared to the annoyance of slivers.

Philbert

I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it. Ron

It's an easy mod. I had my machinist friend cut this in.

Interesting on the shrapnel you are picking up. I have had zero issues with that.

One thing I have noticed was that my original angle guides were getting a touch warbly.

So, I swapped in the 25/35 guides that I had. It did tighten things up a bit but something just aint quite a right especially because I am flipping the jig around.

I WISH they would mark one side or the other of the 25/35 guide to denote which angle it is.

Also, I think my last 7/32 cutter they sent isn't 7/32. It is taking quite a bit of sharpening before I am even able to touch up the angle of the top of the tooth. My last sharpening I did 4x per side and still wasn't really getting into the top of the tooth at all yet. That's been my biggest issue to date.

It might be from going from hand filed to the timberline but it shouldn't be that huge of a difference in my opinion.

Anyways, gonna keep at it.:msp_smile:

That's what I was thinking. My machinist friend seemed intrigued by my description of the sharpener so I'll just have to drop by his shop with it. Any special parts in the stop? A spring maybe? If not, it seemed to me that a spring loaded stop could be used to place constant pressure on the cutter instead of just relying on the beginning taper. Anything else I need to know? Thanks a bunch. FWIW I am sharpening Stihl chains and using the 13/64 cutter. Ron

 

[benp]

I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it. Ron



That's what I was thinking. My machinist friend seemed intrigued by my description of the sharpener so I'll just have to drop by his shop with it. Any special parts in the stop? A spring maybe? If not, it seemed to me that a spring loaded stop could be used to place constant pressure on the cutter instead of just relying on the beginning taper. Anything else I need to know? Thanks a bunch. FWIW I am sharpening Stihl chains and using the 13/64 cutter. Ron

Nope.

3 pieces. The block that rides in the jig, pawl, and roll pin that attaches the pawl to the block.

That's it. The pawl is replaceable.

 

[Eccentric]

Ron do you have a Costco or Harbor Freight near you? Get some nitrile gloves from them. Much tougher than latex, and they don't bug the skin. The first three years of my job had me wearing latex gloves for much of the day............almost every day. Developed a mild allergy to the proteins in the latex. Now we have nitrile gloves and there's no issue. The nitrile gloves hold up much better too...

 

[Philbert]

Ron do you have a Costco or Harbor Freight near you? Get some nitrile gloves from them.

You can find basic nitrile gloves at almost any large drug store or pharmacy department (Walgreens, CVS, Target, Walmart, etc.). Safety supply vendors will carry higher grade ones that hold up better, but the basic ones should be fine for this. I use them more and more to keep from having to scrub gunk off my hands after working on stuff or when using certain glues, lubricants, cleaners, etc.

Philbert

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, guys. I'll check it out. Ron

 

[benp]

I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it. Ron

Ron,

I "believe" these are what he was talking about.

They are safety gloves, at least the ones I have. The all gray ones fabric are cut proof dyneema then dipped. I cannot remember if the blue/gray ones are dyneema or not.

For certain applications these gloves are great.

The day I took the pics of the blue ones was after 4 wheeling all day and handling crappy old winch cable majority of the day. If you are familiar with winch cable you know how nasty it can get especially after being used and abused for years on end.

They held up great and when my hands got wet, ie "submerged", they dried out yesterday.

I think these would work just fine for sharpening as the dexterity is there.

 

[penningp]

My prayers have been answered

I received the Timberline sharpener for my birthday from my wife (I had to oreder it myself). What can I say - the thing just simply works.

Thank you Timberline!

does anyone know how stable the company is? should I buy more cutters now or are they going to be in business for awhile?

 

[Officer's Match]

Really tempted to try one of these myself. Are there any AS discounts still being offered?

 

[penningp]

Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!

 

[Officer's Match]

Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!

Thanks.