New Chain Sharpener

[Currently]

Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!

Now he tells us!

Feel like red Repping you out of sheer spite! :bang:


Been using mine for three months and still no regrets ... easily the best way to consistently sharpen a chain and get factory results every time.

Got about 40 - 50 sharpenings out of the tool bit and it still is like new.

Seriously, this is worth the price I paid for the consistency of the results.

 

[rwoods]

I thought the discount code deal was long gone so I paid full price as well - no regrets. Ron

 

[madhatte]

Just got my hands on one of these (thanks, Gologit!) and the first thing I did was pass it on to one of my co-workers, cold, with these simple instructions and no other warning (folks are used to being my guinea pigs these days -- I'm always trying something and looking for input):

1) read the booklet for directions
2) run it like you stole it
3) tell me everything you hate

We're gonna be bashing out some blowdown ahead of a dozer tomorrow so I expect that we'll see some hard conditions for chains. I'll report tomorrow what I find. I didn't warn him about the clockwise vs counterclockwise detail -- I want to know if the booklet is emphatic enough about that. If no, I'll certainly pass it on to the manufacturer as well as you guys.

 

[Gologit]

Just got my hands on one of these (thanks, Gologit!) and the first thing I did was pass it on to one of my co-workers, cold, with these simple instructions and no other warning (folks are used to being my guinea pigs these days -- I'm always trying something and looking for input):

1) read the booklet for directions
2) run it like you stole it
3) tell me everything you hate

We're gonna be bashing out some blowdown ahead of a dozer tomorrow so I expect that we'll see some hard conditions for chains. I'll report tomorrow what I find. I didn't warn him about the clockwise vs counterclockwise detail -- I want to know if the booklet is emphatic enough about that. If no, I'll certainly pass it on to the manufacturer as well as you guys.

Let us know how it works out. The clockwise vs. counterclockwise is addressed in the manual.

I wasn't as brave as you, I gave my trail crew guys a short lesson before I turned them loose with it and the majority of them picked it up right away.

 

[madhatte]

I sent it out cold because I figured that's the true test of the device's worth. If it's intuitive enough that it requires no instruction beyond a single-page Xeroxed set of instructions, it's a winner.

 

[madhatte]

OK, here's the verdict, folks. Mind you, this is coming from a coworker who knows how to run a saw but isn't too particular about chains.

Love the chain sharpener. Once you get the adjustments right, which isn't hard, it's great. Getting the correct angle on all teeth in the field is good. It's also fast. No complaints!

Gonna pass it on to one other person but I think I'll likely be getting one of these for each of the trucks at work. Should save me some grinder time.

 

[Gologit]

OK, here's the verdict, folks. Mind you, this is coming from a coworker who knows how to run a saw but isn't too particular about chains.



Gonna pass it on to one other person but I think I'll likely be getting one of these for each of the trucks at work. Should save me some grinder time.

I thought you might like that gadget. My trail crew, good people but with widely varied skill levels, can turn out some of the prettiest chains you've ever seen.

Before I got them the gadget? 'Twas truly scary. Some of them are going to try hand filing now that they have an idea of what a sharp chain really is.


When you get your new ones just send me the demonstrator back.

 

[madhatte]

Time for another field report.

Second coworker just brought the device in, a bit frustrated with two things: first, the aluminum-on-aluminum-on-aluminum action in the stop pawl mechanism tends toward galling. I took it apart and rubbed the sharp edges with beeswax; that seems to be holding it for now. A better, more permanent fix, would be to make the screw mechanism out of steel. Second, the burr sits too high and the pawl too far back for sharpening chains at the end of their lives. I realize that settling the chassis further down can help fix this, as can grinding another cut in the opposite side to carry the pawl, but that shouldn't be necessary.

I would add to the instructions a MUCH larger warning against turning the burr counterclockwise, and add that the sharpener is most effective on chains that have at least 1/3 of their meat intact.

Gonna pass it around some more and see what else I can find out.

 

[user 64030]

Time for another field report.

Second coworker just brought the device in, a bit frustrated with two things: first, the aluminum-on-aluminum-on-aluminum action in the stop pawl mechanism tends toward galling. I took it apart and rubbed the sharp edges with beeswax; that seems to be holding it for now. A better, more permanent fix, would be to make the screw mechanism out of steel. Second, the burr sits too high and the pawl too far back for sharpening chains at the end of their lives. I realize that settling the chassis further down can help fix this, as can grinding another cut in the opposite side to carry the pawl, but that shouldn't be necessary.

I would add to the instructions a MUCH larger warning against turning the burr counterclockwise, and add that the sharpener is most effective on chains that have at least 1/3 of their meat intact.

Gonna pass it around some more and see what else I can find out.

Good feedback. This tool probably designed more for the personal vs. professional environment. Mayeb send some suggestions tot he company they can come up w/ a pro-grade version.

dw

 

[rwoods]

Still doing well with mine. I paid more attention this past Saturday - the shavings in my fingers are from pulling the chain around - the rig does not drop them on you. Ron

 

[Preston]

The aluminum on aluminum issue was my first question. That would my main concern. I like the steel idea.

The shaving deal in the fingers is just something you probably will just have to get used to, I would think. But you have shaving with a round file.

 

[half_full]

Still doing well with mine. I paid more attention this past Saturday - the shavings in my fingers are from pulling the chain around - the rig does not drop them on you. Ron

I use a shop rag to move the chain along. Almost eliminates the shavings in your fingers.

 

[Officer's Match]

I use a shop rag to move the chain along. Almost eliminates the shavings in your fingers.

Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.

 

[Gologit]

Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.

True. Plus, if you're sharpening correctly and getting a good sharp edge, a pair of gloves is a good idea. The worst cut I ever got from a chain was while filing and pulling the chain around the bar by hand.

 

[half_full]

Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.

It's just that it's harder to open a beer can with gloves on :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Officer's Match]

It's just that it's harder to open a beer can with gloves on :hmm3grin2orange:

More practice grasshoppa'.

 

[rwoods]

Sharpened some .404 today as well as a 3/8. I think ST would say I told you so as I believe the 3/8 was sharper than it was straight out of the Stihl package. I say that that is pretty good for a guy who has always been poor at any kind of sharpening. I can put an edge on a knife and completely destroy it with the next stroke. I admired the sharpening skills of my grandfather and my dad, both could put a razor edge on almost any knife with just a steel. They move so quickly the knife was just a blur at it alternated from top to bottom of the steel. They both slaughtered a lot of cattle so I guess they had no choice but to learn to do it right. Anyway, back to the Timberline. Helpful hint if you have reading glasses then use them. I have one .404 tooth considerably smaller than the rest. It was the first cutter and I hadn't seated the jig low enough. I had to eat up a lot of the cutter to fix my error. If I had my specs on, this wouldn't have happened. Ron

 

[7sleeper]

Many people in a german chainsaw thread swear by a diamond coated file made exclusivly, by a german company, for a dealer on the forum. They claim it is much finer than the normal file and give a much sharper finish. They only use normal files now for the coarse sharpening and switch to the fine file for the "extra" sharpening. I am very tempted to buy one but I am not cutting that much in the last year as I woud like to, so I am still hesitent to buy a set of different sizes. They are expensive but they are only allowed to loose 5% of their material after estimated 50000 file strokes. So they estimate a file life of 50% so that would be about 500000 strokes. That is a pretty good life expectancy.

7

 

[danl]

This forum has cost me a ton of money over the last ten years.
But I had to have one of these, I got it in three days, that is really fast from the wherever he is to Mo.
When I ordered I called Timberline and he gave me a discount because I mentioned Arboristsite. He seems to be a super nice guy.



I am completely impressed with it. I had just put a new chain on my 55r and cut some dirty wood, I had it real dull.
It took me about five minutes to figure out how to use the Timberline and maybe another fifteen to sharpen the chain. It cut better after sharpening than when I first put it on. What mostly impressed me is that it stayed sharp longer, I was still throwing big chips after cutting several hickory and oak logs that a excavator had laid over.

I ordered the 25/35 guides, but have just used the standard 30 degree.

 

[Officer's Match]

I have not really experimented with different angles (at least intentionally). What would be the typical reasons/conditions where a shallower or steeper angle would be beneficial? Would for example a harder, dirtier wood like Locust make for a reason to go less steep?