You say it’s so fast to file, just curious what length of bars are you normally running? This might be ok for firewood but not production work.
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No offense. There may be some confusion due to the fact that you and I are discussing two very different chain types, and very different scenarios.
You on the one hand are talking about 'Square Ground' chain, that's being used mostly on a mechanical harvester, and going through approximately 30 chains a week.
As I stated in my previous post, #49, I know nothing about Square Ground chain, and cannot speak about it one way or the other.
It was never popular around my area, so I've never used it and never filed it.
From everything I've ever heard and read, sounds like the Square Ground chain is much more difficult to correctly file by hand due to the complex angles etc., and best sharpened on a proper grinder. So in your circumstances, I'd agree completely, you are much better off using a grinder, especially in that kind of extremely high production situation.
Now - back to 'Round Ground' chain.
Whether it be in a Hand Felling logging operation which I've been, or simply your average Homeowner, Firewood scrounger, or Land clearer etc. - There is no better or quicker way to sharpen your chain than to "Learn to file it Free Hand"
Not only will it BE sharper - it will STAY sharper, because at the first sign of losing it's edge, you will simply shut your saw off, grab your file, touch it up, and go back to work.
No more gadgets and gizmos to buy or carry around with you.
No more carrying multiple chains with you, and swapping out chains when the one on the saw gets dull.
No more continuing to cut with a dull chain 'way longer' than you know you should - Yeah I know, it's a hassle to swap it out, and you want all you can get out of it.
No more getting home from cutting wood with 2 or three dull chains that need sharpened or taken somewhere else to sharpen $$$
No more grinders or grinding wheels to buy
Just one simple tool - a file and the 'willingness' to learn.
Some TIPS for newbies, or anyone trying to learn.
1. Get the right size file - For 3/8 Chisel or Semi-Chisel you'll want to use a 7/32. (That's all you need)
2. Get a GOOD file - no Chi-com junk (Lately I've been using Pferd from Bailey's and I like them)
3. Note for smaller saws - .325 chain is a little more difficult to hand file than 3/8". (A great excuse to get a bigger saw or convert that piss ant chain)
4. Do NOT file an oily chain - Your file will glide across the oil film and not cut correctly, and your file will also get oily and clog with filings etc.
5. To clean the chain - simply gun your throttle lightly a few times while easing the chain against some wood, preferably some dry 'BARK', then immediately shut it off.
6. The chain should now be fairly free of excess oil. (The dryer that chain is, the easier and better it will file)
7. File your chain ON the saw - where you're cutting - No need to take it off or mount it on anything else. Nor do you need to be in your shop or garage.
8. Don't try to file with a 'Loose' chain. You'll get side to side wobble. Tighten your chain to proper operating snugness prior to filing.
9. Now find yourself a log or stump preferably to sit the saw on, or simply set it on the ground. (Those little H shaped stump vices w/thumbscrew are VERY handy - but certainly not a must)
10. Hunker down behind your saw, NOT beside it, and lean your chest down over the engine so that you are looking down onto the top profile of the chain approximately 6 to 8 inches out from the front of the engine, or what feels comfortable to you.
(Perfect scenario is saw sitting on a log length wise- this way you can straddle the log behind the saw - not as much bending down for us older guys, and very comfortable.
Okay, what ya waiting for - get that file going.
5 minutes from now you'll be cuttin' wood again, with a sharp chain
Does it take some time and practice to get proficient? YES absolutely. Don't expect miracles in one day.
But it's not rocket science either, and well worth the effort to master.