New chain vs sharpened.

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Perfect solution for those who don’t or can’t hand file a chain, and don’t mind sub-par performance ;)
Actually my dealer has one and it does a pretty decent job. I have taken a couple of chains to him that are on their last leg and they aren't to bad. I see a few of the local loggers bringing in handfuls of chains to be done.
 
Actually my dealer has one and it does a pretty decent job. I have taken a couple of chains to him that are on their last leg and they aren't to bad. I see a few of the local loggers bringing in handfuls of chains to be done.

Running harvester more then hand falling anymore it’s not uncommon to have to do 25 to 30 chains a week and that’s just one machine.


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hi fellas, Farmer Steve...

this looks like the spot I have been hoping to find. imagine that, it found me! :)

my quest is simple. simple for experts, and sounds like there are some expd' chain experts here... :yes:

so I have an old, really nice, as far as nice goes... 40 yr old craftsman elec chainsaw. it is not too much fun to use, cause it has very high angles of attack on the cutters. especially as compared to my gasoline saws. like my echo cs-271. so I am wondering why does the old elec have such an angle? it jumps n bounced about... :blob2:it will cut, but at an expense. mine! lol. here's pix or two. see what I mean. hope some of you chain experts can further explain the utility and supposed effectiveness of this chain. I can find none so to speak. the saw has an auto sharpener. one poster, thread or two over... posted a vid. about an Oregon tip sharpener. said something about sharpens down in lieu of across... I use the saw more as a novelty... it has the original chain.

I hand sharpen my gasoline saw's chains.

elec 14"
P5180023.JPG

cs-271 12"
P5180027.JPG
 
Actually the old Powersharp with a good stone cut pretty good back in the day.
Just had crappy vibration especially on smaller lighter saws. I changed one out for a friend that had a Poulan electric, he was scared to death of it as the chain skated and bounced so bad on a little 12" bar.
 
I've never encountered a new chain out of the box that had issues. It's interesting on this thread to read the stories of those who have seen them. But I only go through a handful of new chains in a season, so maybe one day I'll come across a new chain that isn't right as well.

Because of that I guess I've never had a reason to file a new chain or to check depth gauge settings on new chains. I've ground my chain for years, mostly because of damage from the dirty wood I've had available. But I'm starting to help someone with wooded property take out dead and dying trees, and I'm noticing how easy it is to just touch the cutters with a file when I gas up in the field. A touch up is all they usually need. So I'm doing more filing where I can, and grinding only chains that need it.

My practice at the moment is this:
  1. grind chain when damage warrants it
  2. file the cutters (whether or not they were just ground)
  3. check depth gauges with one of the Husky flat depth gauge tools, file depth gauges where needed
In the field I'll change out a damaged chain, but will file cutters (only) if the chain is just starting to dull.

I'm not sure I see much difference in just grinding a dull chain vs grinding then filing, but occasionally I will notice that when I file a newly ground chain, I can feel a little roughness in a few cutters. I think it's just a little rough edge left by the CBN wheel. Honestly I do not think I'd ever notice the difference while I'm cutting wood.
 
I've never encountered a new chain out of the box that had issues. It's interesting on this thread to read the stories of those who have seen them. But I only go through a handful of new chains in a season, so maybe one day I'll come across a new chain that isn't right as well.

Because of that I guess I've never had a reason to file a new chain or to check depth gauge settings on new chains. I've ground my chain for years, mostly because of damage from the dirty wood I've had available. But I'm starting to help someone with wooded property take out dead and dying trees, and I'm noticing how easy it is to just touch the cutters with a file when I gas up in the field. A touch up is all they usually need. So I'm doing more filing where I can, and grinding only chains that need it.

My practice at the moment is this:
  1. grind chain when damage warrants it
  2. file the cutters (whether or not they were just ground)
  3. check depth gauges with one of the Husky flat depth gauge tools, file depth gauges where needed
In the field I'll change out a damaged chain, but will file cutters (only) if the chain is just starting to dull.

I'm not sure I see much difference in just grinding a dull chain vs grinding then filing, but occasionally I will notice that when I file a newly ground chain, I can feel a little roughness in a few cutters. I think it's just a little rough edge left by the CBN wheel. Honestly I do not think I'd ever notice the difference while I'm cutting wood.

Congratulations on your hand filing!

Yes - the more you cut, and the better you get at filing, the more you’ll realize just how advantageous it is to simply grab a file, on-site, and ‘keep’ your chain sharp at all times.

Kudos to you for taking that first step at escaping from the scenario of:
Oops my chain’s getting dull = I better swap it out until I can take it back home to sharpen it, or pay someone else to sharpen it.

Keep at it, and you’ll only continue getting better and better, to the point that even a somewhat rocked chain won’t intimidate you at all.
Just takes a little more filing, and all those extra file strokes will teach you real quickly why you need to keep that bar out of the dirt.

Again, congratulations!
You’re well on your way to freedom :happy:
 
CYou’re well on your way to freedom :happy:

Braveheart-freedom-768x480.jpg


braveheartChainsawFile.jpg
 
Congratulations on your hand filing!

Yes - the more you cut, and the better you get at filing, the more you’ll realize just how advantageous it is to simply grab a file, on-site, and ‘keep’ your chain sharp at all times.

Kudos to you for taking that first step at escaping from the scenario of:
Oops my chain’s getting dull = I better swap it out until I can take it back home to sharpen it, or pay someone else to sharpen it.

Keep at it, and you’ll only continue getting better and better, to the point that even a somewhat rocked chain won’t intimidate you at all.
Just takes a little more filing, and all those extra file strokes will teach you real quickly why you need to keep that bar out of the dirt.

Again, congratulations!
You’re well on your way to freedom :happy:

You say it’s so fast to file, just curious what length of bars are you normally running? This might be ok for firewood but not production work.


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I have an old, really nice, as far as nice goes... 40 yr old craftsman elec chainsaw. it is not too much fun to use, cause it has very high angles of attack on the cutters.

Pretty sure that I had the same saw, in a 16 inch model. It came equipped with an older version of the Oregon PowerSharp (a.k.a. 'barracuda') chain. Saw made by Poulan? Chain worked OK for a while.

photo C2.jpg

Remove the crayon-sized stone from the auto-sharpener, and replace the loop with a standard, 3/8, low profile chain. You will like it. Very handy saw to have.

*** Do not use a loop of the new PowerSharp chain with that stone. They are not compatible.***. New PowerSharp chain uses a curved stone that mints in a bar end cassette.

Philbert
 
You say it’s so fast to file, just curious what length of bars are you normally running? This might be ok for firewood but not production work.


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No offense. There may be some confusion due to the fact that you and I are discussing two very different chain types, and very different scenarios.

You on the one hand are talking about 'Square Ground' chain, that's being used mostly on a mechanical harvester, and going through approximately 30 chains a week.

As I stated in my previous post, #49, I know nothing about Square Ground chain, and cannot speak about it one way or the other.
It was never popular around my area, so I've never used it and never filed it.

From everything I've ever heard and read, sounds like the Square Ground chain is much more difficult to correctly file by hand due to the complex angles etc., and best sharpened on a proper grinder. So in your circumstances, I'd agree completely, you are much better off using a grinder, especially in that kind of extremely high production situation.

Now - back to 'Round Ground' chain.
Whether it be in a Hand Felling logging operation which I've been, or simply your average Homeowner, Firewood scrounger, or Land clearer etc. - There is no better or quicker way to sharpen your chain than to "Learn to file it Free Hand"

Not only will it BE sharper - it will STAY sharper, because at the first sign of losing it's edge, you will simply shut your saw off, grab your file, touch it up, and go back to work.

No more gadgets and gizmos to buy or carry around with you.

No more carrying multiple chains with you, and swapping out chains when the one on the saw gets dull.

No more continuing to cut with a dull chain 'way longer' than you know you should - Yeah I know, it's a hassle to swap it out, and you want all you can get out of it.

No more getting home from cutting wood with 2 or three dull chains that need sharpened or taken somewhere else to sharpen $$$

No more grinders or grinding wheels to buy

Just one simple tool - a file and the 'willingness' to learn.

Some TIPS for newbies, or anyone trying to learn.

1. Get the right size file - For 3/8 Chisel or Semi-Chisel you'll want to use a 7/32. (That's all you need)
2. Get a GOOD file - no Chi-com junk (Lately I've been using Pferd from Bailey's and I like them)
3. Note for smaller saws - .325 chain is a little more difficult to hand file than 3/8". (A great excuse to get a bigger saw or convert that piss ant chain) ;)
4. Do NOT file an oily chain - Your file will glide across the oil film and not cut correctly, and your file will also get oily and clog with filings etc.
5. To clean the chain - simply gun your throttle lightly a few times while easing the chain against some wood, preferably some dry 'BARK', then immediately shut it off.
6. The chain should now be fairly free of excess oil. (The dryer that chain is, the easier and better it will file)
7. File your chain ON the saw - where you're cutting - No need to take it off or mount it on anything else. Nor do you need to be in your shop or garage.
8. Don't try to file with a 'Loose' chain. You'll get side to side wobble. Tighten your chain to proper operating snugness prior to filing.
9. Now find yourself a log or stump preferably to sit the saw on, or simply set it on the ground. (Those little H shaped stump vices w/thumbscrew are VERY handy - but certainly not a must)
10. Hunker down behind your saw, NOT beside it, and lean your chest down over the engine so that you are looking down onto the top profile of the chain approximately 6 to 8 inches out from the front of the engine, or what feels comfortable to you.
(Perfect scenario is saw sitting on a log length wise- this way you can straddle the log behind the saw - not as much bending down for us older guys, and very comfortable.

Okay, what ya waiting for - get that file going.
5 minutes from now you'll be cuttin' wood again, with a sharp chain ;)

Does it take some time and practice to get proficient? YES absolutely. Don't expect miracles in one day.

But it's not rocket science either, and well worth the effort to master.
 
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