New Echo Pro saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Smart move. 1400 is a bit much for the 7310 but I'm not sure on exchange rates and other stuff. I would probly buy the makita/dolmar 7900/7910 before I bought the echo. Guys say the echo is a bit heavy on the power to weight ratio but after porting it the power to weight gap closes considerably
Maybe huskys are cheaper in my neck of the woods, tons of stihl dealer out here but you have to go the distance to find a husky dealer . Another good thing for echo is that every small equipment dealer sells the echo brand
 
My cs590 with the Rim drive (30 bucks to change) thinks it's as good as the cs620 p. Im not going to tell it any better. Ever since 2015 it run the big bar when needed and cut beside a Stihl 391 just like it though it was a good saw. Poor thing just don't know any better.
View attachment 970697
View attachment 970698

View attachment 970706View attachment 970706
One point I was making with that original statement is Echo doesn’t market it as pro, yet it’s a great, extremely durable saw that performs well and it’s getting good press.
 
Smart move. 1400 is a bit much for the 7310 but I'm not sure on exchange rates and other stuff. I would probly buy the makita/dolmar 7900/7910 before I bought the echo. Guys say the echo is a bit heavy on the power to weight ratio but after porting it the power to weight gap closes considerably
Yeah, $1400 is the going price for a brand new 395xp here.
 
Yeah, $1400 is the going price for a brand new 395xp here.
Exactly , even the the 592 is not quite 100$ more than the 395. Im not brand loyal since i have at least one saw of every make but i figured that for that kind of money i was gonna choose the safest option and go with the trusty ol husky and this is what i believe a lot of ppl are gonna do . I have to admit i was eager to try the 7310 , if they would have been the same price as the husky i would have bought one . The 7310 felt really good in ma hands hand it looked like a sturdy saw , my 590 does what its supposed to and more for the price but it sure feels like i bought it at toys r us
 
What size bar is that and that's a 590?
Yes Echo cs590. I bought it as a 28" Echo bar but it pulls out to about 30. Strange###. Bar and chain combo from my Dealer. The cs590 has no problem IF it's NOT HOGGED. I never lay on my saws. In fact I have demonstrated to trainees that a saw (when sawing level across a log) feeds it's self. Once the bar is buried I've ( temporarily) pulled my left hand completely off the handle (I do STRESS IT'S DANGEROUS) and allowed the saw to feed it's self. The right hand holds the handle gives it throttle and the left hand MOSTLY is there for safety and guidance. I've had (a couple times in life) a saw kick back and up. Once about 1995 and again a few years ago. BOTH TIMES I was able (and strong enough) to keep the saw out of my face. BUT I remember the left hand did activate the break. Back about 1995 after the PP 380 came close to hurting me I started getting rid of EVERY saw without a chain brake. I had a Poulan 2150 with a hand guard BUT NO brake. I bought a clutch plate for a small Husky and put it on that saw. I gifted the saw to a helper years ago. That was a 37cc I think. It sure cut good. When I'm cutting trees that can be cut with a 20 inch bar I use that on my 590. If I remember correctly, I might have enlarged the oil hole on that bar. That's a common practice of mine. Adding a little bit of STP also is always done to every gallon of Bar oil. IMG_20181204_204716_056.jpgWhen I'm in dirty wood I want a lot of oil. Another trick us a 5 gallon bucket of water. I stick the bar tip in FRESH water NO soap and reeve the engine. The water remove grime BUT not oil. That's good when flush cutting stumps. Gotta be careful. Hitting the plastic bucket could be bad for you and the bucket. At 75 im loaded with tricks. Ha. Ha.
 
Until 2015 me and my two brothers (all chainsaw guys) believed Sthil was "THE" saw..BUT i'm the rebel and I bought a Echo cs590. A brother bought a Sthil 391 and we cut up like brothers do when they are NOT fighting..(well we do at times, ha ha.) So my Echo kept right up with the Sthil 391 bucking a huge oak..The difference in the two saws mostly seemed to be more plastic on the Echo..Baby brother then had to out do me and bought a Echo cs620P..Of course it has a RIM drive and that hurt me real bad.. I limped around a long time just waiting to wear the Spur gear out on the 590 so I could replace it with a Proper drive..BUT,, even then the 590 in my (smarter more experienced hands. grin) kept right up with the cs620..BUT in the back of my mind I heard, "You ain't got no Rim Drive"..Cain and Able came to mind but I tried to play like I was not real pizzed..I called the Echo dealer and he saw a hot dog and tried to eat my lunch 100 bucks, you gotta be kidding.. SO,, I suffered silently for years.. THEN,, recently, I found an after market clutch drum and rim drive with free bearing on Ebay. Shipping, tax and all just under 30 bucks..Thinking, what's 30 bucks I ordered it.. Supposedly it's going to arrive soon and we shall see if it's like my X wife. Making promises that can't be kept or like my current girl friend, Exciting and fulfilling..ONLY time will tell..BUT do I like the 590? Ask my collection of Sthil saws..The 029, 026, 024, never get taken out of the shop.. They sit and stare angrily at the smiling Echo collection..There are a few Poland saws that hide in shame..But that's another story..Like I told my grandson about Border Collies.. I think you will be happy if you do get one..only in your case it's a Saw not a dog.. BOTH ways both of you should be happy for a long time..The saw should out live any dog..So what are you waiting on..? Ask honey for the check book and head out to the store.. Good luck.
Do a muffler mod on the 590 and a timing advance on the flywheel = you will notice and see better cut time/power.

The 620p has a different coil that allows a higher rpm.
 
Do a muffler mod on the 590 and a timing advance on the flywheel = you will notice and see better cut time/power.

The 620p has a different coil that allows a higher rpm.
Thanks.. I thought about that..BUT,, since I'm mostly tired and Re-tired mostly Speed isn't necessary..I cut only a couple big trees a week now and try to get out of half of them. Ha Ha..Most of what I cut is 20 inches and under.. I've cleared a lot of land here on the farm too...My Stump grinder is down so that's my next project plus the Power Steering on the Kubota..Seems like I will never keep up..This nice weather has bumped my energy levels..I took a friend 4 wheeler riding today.. Sure is pretty in the woods this time of year..Thinks are starting to green out...Spring is waiting in the back room.. Soon she will come dancing out and then I will have a LOT more to do..At 75 I'm slowing down some.. I guess by 85,,, if I'm alive and well,, I'll probably try to retire again..Ha. Ha..Getting old don't worry me but getting helpless is a death sentence.. This old Buffalo has been running wild all these years,, sitting watching TV like some old helpless bull, would be like going to hell... Be blessed..
 
Just a fyi, the echo part number for the limiter removal tool is 91157. It’s labeled as 4510 removal tool but it works for both.
Have you used tge 9511 tool on a 4510 To pull the limiters? I have a 4920 that takes the same tool and I can't get the caps to come out, don't know what i am doing wrong. Thanks!!
 
Have you used tge 9511 tool on a 4510 To pull the limiters? I have a 4920 that takes the same tool and I can't get the caps to come out, don't know what i am doing wrong. Thanks!!
LIMITER CAP REMOVAL:
Thread Limiter Cap Tool (P/N 91157) clockwise 1 or 2 turns into Limiter Cap. Pull tool away from carburetor. Limiter Cap should come out with the tool.
 
LIMITER CAP REMOVAL:
Thread Limiter Cap Tool (P/N 91157) clockwise 1 or 2 turns into Limiter Cap. Pull tool away from carburetor. Limiter Cap should come out with the tool.
I goofed on my saws. It isn't the 4510, it is a 4920 I need the limiters taken off. It is a weird carb, never seen this number. GC-04-01. A friend is an Echo dealer so he got us the tool, 91157 and when I went to get it he had never used one either. He had a 4920 there so he screwed the tool into the first limiter and part of it came out, but not all. He did the other one and screwed the tool in until it bottomed out and it looked like the whole limiter cap came out but neither screws [H/L] would turn any further than before. Any idea what we are doing wrong?? Thanks again!!
 
There’s a video on YouTube where a guy figured out where to drill into the 7310 limiter to get it to pull out. He talks about the orientation of each jet and where you need to drill to get it to come out. I’ve talked to a couple guys that have done it and they say it works perfectly. Not sure if that also applies to other models or not but maybe
 
There’s a video on YouTube where a guy figured out where to drill into the 7310 limiter to get it to pull out. He talks about the orientation of each jet and where you need to drill to get it to come out. I’ve talked to a couple guys that have done it and they say it works perfectly. Not sure if that also applies to other models or not but maybe
I watched the video, I just hate taking a drill to a new saw. I'll figure this out one way or another. Lol.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top