New guy needs advice

[martinisatsix]

I've checked out this site a few times and found some great information here. Now I hope to get some advice from the experts.

I bought an old Sachs Dolmar 133 a few years ago to run a small homeowner sized Alaskan mill and to do some big tree work around the house. The saw has performed well, but it wasn't long before the old bar was cutting more like a curve than a straight line. After a while it started to bind too much to really use. I bought a new bar & chain and it worked great....for a while. Now the same thing is starting to happen. I flipped it over and it's cutting straight agian - for now.

I've been trying to do my homework and learn. From what I've read so far, it might be something very simple - the bar channels spreading open. It's possible that all I need is a bar closer to get the gap back to it's original size.

Does this sound right? Any other suggestions?

Are there any places where I can still get parts?

I'm only about 1/2 way through the projects I intended to use this saw for and I can't afford to buy a newer saw. Besides, I've always loved older machines. It's a shame to let them rust on a shelf when they still have life left in them. (Now if only my wife would buy into that arguement).

Help.

CF

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

More than likely a regular bar dressing would help.
Do a search on bar rail dressers.

 

[oakman]

sounds like maybe the bar aint gettin enough oil. if your milling with it, you need all the oil you can get. if your milling hardwood, an auxiliary oiler is usually needed. pull the bar off and clean out the oil holes in the bar and on the saw. run the saw with the bar off and the oil output screw set to max, be easy on the gas with no chain on. if good oil flow, put bar back on and throw a white sheet of paper down and blip the gas a few times and see how much oil it throws. i cut my bar oil with wd40 in the winter when i'm milling. helps alot and keeps the chain a bit cleaner. good luck

 

[Crofter]

Not getting enough oil will certainly cause wear, but the fact that it is cutting to one side makes me think something may be trying to force the chain to one side. A new bar will resist the tendency to some extent for a short while but its bar rails and groove as well as tha chains tie straps and drive links will all wearl on the side the chain is being forced to. A damaged sprocket can also transfer its damage to drive tangs on chain and then to the bar grooves.
Is there perhaps something in your sharpening that is causing the chain to run and start the process. You may have to dig deeper to get to the root of this problem; no use treating symptoms.

Frank

 

[Bill G]

I would agree with Frank. I believe at least part of your problem lies with chain sharpening. A chain that is sharpen improperly will pull to one side. Now if you replaced the bar and chain at the same time and a new bar with a new unsharpened chain pulled sideways then there is another problem for sure.

Bill

 

[sedanman]

ABout the "force" issue, are you using ripping chain on the unit? Regular crosscut chain will rip rather slowly and encourage the operator to use excessive force. Just a thought.

 

[martinisatsix]

Thanks, everyone. That helped a lot. I looked and the sprocket is damaged, so I ordered a new one. The angles on the chain look correct, so I'll check the bar to see if the wear has been even next. I'll have the bar dressed either way.

CF

 

[Crofter]

Quick trik to check Bar rail square

With chain a bit on the tight side lift it away from the bar far enough to slide a round file between chain and bar rails to about the files middle. Let the chain snap back on it and view the file from the tip of the bar. If one rail is worn down the file will be noceably tipped one way and out of square with the bar. A small square or a cigarrettte package etc will help if the out of square is marginal. Yoy can check either top or bottom of bar at all points along its length without taking the chain off!

Frank

 

[martinisatsix]

Will do. Great tip. Thanks!