New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

[ziggo_2]

Is a Cadillac Escalade any better vehicle that a Tahoe? Suburban? Yukon? Avalanche??
Well, some would say they are nicer but looking and have more bells and whistles.
But will it tow your boat better because it's a Caddy? No, it won't.
Will the Lincoln/Mercury trucks tow better than the Ford truck?? No, they won't.

I've always wanted an SS. But I've always thought they were way overpriced too. After watching several videos and break downs of the machine, I actually thought about building one myself. There just aren't that many hard parts to purchase. I didn't think it would be any more expensive to build a kinetic splitter than a to build a hydraulic. Obviously I never got around to building and bought the speedpro instead.

Cmccul8146 built his own kinetic splitter. I wonder how much he has invested in his project. If memory serves me right, from reading his thread, I don't think he made a substantial investment. Hopefully he will tell us.

MNGuns...Nobody is knocking the SuperSplit, it's the industry standard for kinetic splitters. And has been, without much competition, for many years. Now there is some competion out there and I don't think you like it. I'm sure you will be the first to bash the DR rapidfire (rapidSplit??) if and when they have any problems.

Let me try this again....Speeco screwed up!

If you think speeco makes it just as good as supersplit then why are the speecos breaking in two months?

Are the supersplits overpriced? maybe...i dont care, im not buying either. I dont like the kinetic splitters, never have. Slamming gears together every 3seconds doesnt sound good to my ears. Why would anybody need that kind of speed anyways. If two people are working as fast as they can around that thing, mistakes are bound to happen. I dont care what anybody says. If someone trips and get their hand or face in the way, there is noway youll get it stopped fast enough.

The fact that the supersplits dont break gears too simply amazes me....apparently they spent more money in research and development to get it right maybe thats why they cost more.

Ive seen the DR model...looks identical. supersplit patent probably expired, and they couldnt get a new one so the design was sold to DR.

Ive seen the speecos operate. You can tell they dont split as smooth as any other. Not to mention they sound like a tool chest falling down a flight of stairs.

Why are you trying to play detective on this?....take it back and let speeco fix this problem.

For the record I think speeco make a decent hydraulic splitter, they just got in over their heads on this one.

Buyer beware, especially nowadays.

 

[sunfish]

Ive seen the DR model...looks identical. supersplit patent probably expired, and they couldnt get a new one so the design was sold to DR.

I'm not sure if SS ever had a patent, but you're right, if they did it surely expired. However, I do know that SS did not sell the design to DR. DR bought two machines from SS and copied them.

 

[ziggo_2]

I'm not sure if SS ever had a patent, but you're right, if they did it surely expired. However, I do know that SS did not sell the design to DR. DR bought two machines from SS and copied them.

Could be....i dont know for sure.

I also think DR products are overpriced. Speecos are priced right. however they seem to cut corners to keep the price low.

 

[philwillmt]

I know exactly when I bend my engagement rod. I hit a hard knot or fork and the rack disengages the pinion with an extreme amount of force, so hard that if you have your hand on the handle that it hurts during kickback.


Country, I haven't seen one of the SpeedPro splitters, but what you're describing as to when you bend the engagement rod should not be happening at all. The SS, DR, and my homebuilt splitter aren't built to AUTOMATICALLY disengage when you hit a knot , "hard spot",twisted stringy stuff, or whatever. The centrifugal clutch SHOULD SLIP, and the flywheels stall. You should have to MANUALLY disengage the gears, & springs pull rack back to "home' position. From what you are saying, your clutch is not slipping as it should. Spray a little WD-40 on the shoes to help them to slip. I have read some comments here on AS about rust on some areas of the SpeedPro splitters. Possible that the clutches have rusted up from the salty air while crossing the pond and are not slipping well enough. If that's the case, there may not be a problem with the gear hardness . If that clutch doesn't slip, something has got to give , & it'll likely be the teeth on the rack. Hope this helps someone who has bought a SpeedPro, and saves them some headaches .

Cmccul8146,

I agree...very good points! Thanks! My splitter has popped the handle up and retracted automatically one time, and it was when I hit something hard. I agree that the clutch should simply slip. I think I'll try lubing my clutch and see what happens...the worst it can do is slip!

 

[philwillmt]

Fyi...I believe most of craftsman hand tools are made in china now. I heard somewhere that the original makers of craftsman hand tools now makes kobolt. I haven't confirmed that rumor though.[/QUOTE]

I was thinking that Snap-On was the original manufacturer of Kobalt???

 

[Dozer Man]

Let me try this again....Speeco screwed up!

If you think speeco makes it just as good as supersplit then why are the speecos breaking in two months?

Are the supersplits overpriced? maybe...i dont care, im not buying either. I dont like the kinetic splitters, never have. Slamming gears together every 3seconds doesnt sound good to my ears. Why would anybody need that kind of speed anyways. If two people are working as fast as they can around that thing, mistakes are bound to happen. I dont care what anybody says. If someone trips and get their hand or face in the way, there is noway youll get it stopped fast enough.

The fact that the supersplits dont break gears too simply amazes me....apparently they spent more money in research and development to get it right maybe thats why they cost more.

Ive seen the DR model...looks identical. supersplit patent probably expired, and they couldnt get a new one so the design was sold to DR.

Ive seen the speecos operate. You can tell they dont split as smooth as any other. Not to mention they sound like a tool chest falling down a flight of stairs.

Why are you trying to play detective on this?....take it back and let speeco fix this problem.

For the record I think speeco make a decent hydraulic splitter, they just got in over their heads on this one.

Buyer beware, especially nowadays.

The reason we don't want to return them is because we like them very much! Believe me, if I have problems with my splitter, and they still don't have the issue resolved, then I will think about returning it. I also might think about just fixing it myself. And I don't think I'm alone in my thoughts either.

Why ??? Because after splitting with a kinetic splitter, we can't go back to a hydraulic. It's just too slow. And also because I don't have a grand for spending on the difference to an SS. If I take it back then my only option is a 34ton hydro and that just doesn't thrill me at all.

And as for the safety of a kinetic splitter...It's still the same safety issue whether you split with a hydro or even an ax...Complacency is your worst enemy. PAY ATTENTION !!! It doesn't matter if a train is coming at you at 8mph or 80mph, if you aren't paying attention, its gonna hurt you!!

Buyer beware???(fyi-they aren't selling them now). Na...just hurry up and fix the dang thing!!!

btw...Do you think the first SS splitters put on the market (30 yrs ago) had any teathing issues?? Or were they perfect from the getgo? idk maybe they were.

 

[philwillmt]

Just installed tachometer/RPM device on SpeedPro

I just installed a tachometer/hour meter on my SpeedPro splitter...sweet! Now I can know exactly when to service my engine. Also, out of curiosity, I timed the complete cycle on my machine...I got a consistent 1.3 to 1.4 seconds! Much faster than the advertised 2.5 seconds! I need to cut some more wood so I can put some more hours on this baby!

 

[COUNTRY6543]

Philwillmt: If your machine keeps popping the handle it will eventially not engage the rack and pinion. If this happens take the saftey side sheild off and look at the rod between the handle and the engagement lever. It will probable be bent. This is what I believe is the ultimate problem with the machine. If you can figure out why the handle slamms /pops then you have probable figured out the design flaw in these machines. I definately believe this is what is breaking the racks.

 

[TFPace]

Tach question

Phil,

Are you using the TinyTach meter on your machine?

Where did you buy it?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[philwillmt]

Phil,

Are you using the TinyTach meter on your machine?

Where did you buy it?

Thanks,

Tom

It is an ENM brand, PT 14 Series, item number 160590...purchased from Northern Tool & Equipment. Easy to install. While testing the new tachometer, and out of curiosity, I purposely placed a very knotty piece of cottonwood on the cradle and tried splitting it. To my surprise, the push ram disengaged violently, automatically, four times in a row! I'm glad I didn't have my hand on the engagement handle! This was AFTER I sprayed WD-40 on the clutch. I don't think this should be happening! It doesn't appear that the push rod has any bend to it, but I'm surprised it doesn't based on the loud pop from the automatic push rod disengagement!

 

[philwillmt]

Rack/Pinion Lube...What grease would you all recommend for the rack? Bearing grease? Moly? Corn picker grease? BlackJack? Lithium? Marine grease?? Someone said axle grease, is that the same as wheel bearing grease?? I was thinking of using regular moly grease, although I still have a couple tubes of Ce##### synthetic grease (which I will be using on the flywheel bearings). It's real sticky and stringy. Opinions are appreciated greatly.[/QUOTE]

I used a synthetic based grease...simply because it was what I had available. I don't believe the type of grease is all that important, as long as the rack and pinion gears have some type of lubricant on them. In my opinion, a thick chain lube (something that would adhere well) would be a good choice. But again, I think most any type of grease would be sufficient.

 

[COUNTRY6543]

This is exactly what I am talking about! If that can't break a rack I don't know what would. I emailed the company tonight while I was sitting here. I told them about the disengagement and asked if they knew the problem and how to remedy it. Waiting on a reply, will post what I hear.

 

[COUNTRY6543]

Phil: I read your post again. The push ram/ rack isn't what bends. Its the rod that connects the handle to the engagement. It's about 3/8 in diameter.

 

[CampHamp]

There's a piece of metal welded onto the engagement rod, just under the hood. I was told by the TSC sales guy (who was removing a bent rod at the time from the demo unit) that a certain amount of force on this flange causes disengagement. If that's so, these things are designed to "pop" as a release mechanism.

Maybe the SpeeCo engineers thought "we can run our machines much faster than the SS, but then we need to have a release if this thing hits something hard". That mechanism seems highly variable (by reading this thread) and some have no disengagement at all. And, you're probably fighting the release mechanism if you're pushing the handle real hard during a "pop" and bending the rod...

If this release worked properly, then maybe there would be no problems with racks or bending rods (and it could have even been a better mousetrap).

So, do people think that stronger racks will solve the problems?

I think they're wasting money sending out new racks (if this is even true). I think they'll need a new release mechanism altogether if they want to spin the flywheels so fast. The simplest retrofit for them might be to slow those wheels down and take that release flange off.

 

[KiwiBro]

Are the flywheels spinning that much faster than the others or is it the pinion gearing or?
What happens when a too-hard bit of wood is hit? Surely there's some controlled release needed rather than the impact blowing something apart? The clutch won't release until the revs die slow down so that's not likely to take the sudden excessive impact. will the flywheel belts slip instead? Or should they all be designed so the rack will disengage or 'pop' off over a certain shock-loading limit, or do owners hope like hell it's all strong enough to handle the impact until the revs die off enough for the clutch to slip, without firing shrapnel in all directions?

 

[sunfish]

There's a piece of metal welded onto the engagement rod, just under the hood. I was told by the TSC sales guy (who was removing a bent rod at the time from the demo unit) that a certain amount of force on this flange causes disengagement. If that's so, these things are designed to "pop" as a release mechanism.

That would be like forcing your truck out of gear (standard trans), without pushing in the clutch, while pulling a heavy load uphill. After a few times, stuff is going to break. Something is causing the rack to want to separate from the pinon when the ram hits a hard to split piece. Fix this and I think it'll be OK.

 

[CampHamp]

Are the flywheels spinning that much faster than the others or is it the pinion gearing or?

The ram moves much faster than the SS and DR - the difference could be gearing or flywheel speed. I would like to know, too. Anyone? Either way, if you slow the flywheels, then there would be less momentum to halt on hard impact... (and with the taller blade on the SpeedPro, there are stronger impacts to contend with).

What happens when a too-hard bit of wood is hit? Surely there's some controlled release needed rather than the impact blowing something apart?

I think the flywheels must stop turning with the DR and SS (no disengagement). But with the SpeedPro, the wheels can keep turning if the engagement "pops" properly. Someone let me know if I've got this wrong. My point is that if the engagement doesn't "pop" as designed on the SpeedPro, then the teeth will break because the ram is running at hyperspeed.

Or should they all be designed so the rack will disengage or 'pop' off over a certain shock-loading limit, or do owners hope like hell it's all strong enough to handle the impact until the revs die off enough for the clutch to slip, without firing shrapnel in all directions?

I'd like to see a clutch provide slippage between the pinion and flywheels to provide a reliable, consistant circuit-breaker (especially if you go for a fast ram speed).

 

[COUNTRY6543]

You guys are definately on the right track. The whole factory disengagement is not right though. I have totally gutted my saftey and pulled the factory 3/8 rod out and reinstalled a straight 1/2 inch rod and it has still bent the 1/2 rod. The machine does not do it all the time. If I split for 4-5 hours it might do it once in that time period. I do believe there is faster gearing though in these machines. There is some reason the machine and clutch are not in sinc. If any of you have every had if disengage it will scare the tar out of you and you know something happened. Thanks for the help, you guys are giving me a new perspective on what to look at. Keep the ideas coming.

 

[philwillmt]

Phil: I read your post again. The push ram/ rack isn't what bends. Its the rod that connects the handle to the engagement. It's about 3/8 in diameter.

COUNTRY6543,

You are correct...I meant to say the connection rod, not the ram (rack gear). I'm surprised the pin that connects the rod to the handle didn't shear off!

 

[philwillmt]

I'd like to see a clutch provide slippage between the pinion and flywheels to provide a reliable, consistant circuit-breaker (especially if you go for a fast ram speed).

Maybe they should put a clutch inside the flywheels to allow them to slip and spin around the pinion gear shaft after a hard strike? Seems that might provide a smooth, more consistent slippage. Or, maybe they should not key the flywheels to the pinion gear shaft, and just torque the bolts on the ends of the pinion gear shaft to a setting that would allow the flywheels to spin around the shaft after a hard strike. This would require a stepped down shaft, or shoulder, so that the flywheels would not be putting thrust on the pinion shaft bearings. If the shaft had a shoulder, you could use a cupped washer on the ends to apply pressure to the flywheels, but not so much that they couldn't slip if they needed to. In other words, the washer would act as a clutch. Maybe I should just design a new splitter! :msp_sneaky: