Dozer Man, when you try to reverse the handle the angle of the shaft is very important. Yesterday I modified mine and didn't take this into consideration. I didn't realize at the time but that is how it releases if there is a hard strike that stops the ram. The shaft has to be foreward towards the splitter edge for it to work properly. Right now, mine is at the rear and doesn't work properly. I'm hoping to be able to work on it later today but I have a golf tournament the wife signed us up for...
New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...
- Thread starter stumpy75
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ziggy2b
ArboristSite Member
split-fire with log lift
I believe the split-fire would leave this speedco in the dust in the demo tape:msp_ohmy:
I believe the split-fire would leave this speedco in the dust in the demo tape:msp_ohmy:
Iron Mike
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am sure you will be very pleased with your purchase in the long run as it is a great design/approach to splitting wood. Saving 1000 bucks is nothing to sneeze at thats for sure. I can't help wondering though....In our race to the bottom of world standards how long untill 1700 bucks is mostly unaffordable because there are simply less and less jobs for the kind of people that are generally the type that want to split their own wood. I am not singleing you out, I don't have a solution and I am guilty of buying cheap myself. This thread has really underscored the dilema to me.
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Race to the bottom.......
Iron Mike, I understand exactly what you are saying...I don't want to talk politics...it raises my blood pressure. But... I definitely do agree with you. I looked at all options for buying a new splitter locally. Trying to do my part, actually, for local retailers [and for warranty issues and replacement parts]. While researching, I was surprised to find that most splitters themselves are assembled in the USA, but many of there parts are made overseas. I'm not saying all brands, just the ones that are available locally for myself. Speeco/huskee, and MTD based machines, are whats available locally [bigR now sells speeco] so my decision was based on the best of these products for me, and..... I've been wanting a kinetic splitter. I am judging myself...but its not just that I saved a grand, its that I got a kinetic splitter for the same price as i nice vert/horiz hydro splitter. That's where I based my decision....good or bad...
Iron Mike, I understand exactly what you are saying...I don't want to talk politics...it raises my blood pressure. But... I definitely do agree with you. I looked at all options for buying a new splitter locally. Trying to do my part, actually, for local retailers [and for warranty issues and replacement parts]. While researching, I was surprised to find that most splitters themselves are assembled in the USA, but many of there parts are made overseas. I'm not saying all brands, just the ones that are available locally for myself. Speeco/huskee, and MTD based machines, are whats available locally [bigR now sells speeco] so my decision was based on the best of these products for me, and..... I've been wanting a kinetic splitter. I am judging myself...but its not just that I saved a grand, its that I got a kinetic splitter for the same price as i nice vert/horiz hydro splitter. That's where I based my decision....good or bad...
Iron Mike
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes...there is a political forum here where we regularly punch the tar out of these type subjects. I am not commenting on the political nature of the dilema here as I think it surpasses that. I hope you enjoy using your new splitter. :msp_thumbsup:
Update
I split a face cord yesterday with my new splitter. Overall I'm very pleased with the results. I will post my pro/con list in a bit but I know there was some question about vibration. I can say this didn't vibrate much at all. What I will say, however, is I think what people are referring to is the weak jack stand that is used. This is what causes the wobble. I can see when using it how it will wiggle as it doesn't really provide a stable leg for the front end. I remiedied this by leaving it hooked to the ball on my Gator 6x4. This also worked great because as I split, I simply threw the logs into the bed. Big time saver. With it hitched up there was virtually zero movement from the splitter. Only minor vibration from the motor and flywheels which didn't look out of the norm. Here is the list:
Pro:
-Very fast splitting of all types of wood. Put some really knotty red oak in it and it went through it without issue AND I was only at half throttle.
-Easily handles very large circumference logs without issue.
-With the button mod it does make it much easier to operate
-Table is big enough to allow the logs to stay put with only a few falling off. Made for very efficient repeat splits
-Motor is very quite
-very stable when hooked up to a hitch
-Easy to maneuver for storage or hook up.
Con:
-Handle should be moved to the front. Working on modding it next
-front leg is not overly stable
-Logs that have angled cuts do jump off the table. This can be a bit of a hazard so watch out.
-Sometimes the ram when fully extended and then recoiling would cause the handle to pup up which caused some shock to my arm. Not sure why it did this but I'll keep an eye on it. Only happened a couple times.
All in all I think this is a great buy. Only time will tell on longevity but so far I'm very pleased with my purchase.
I split a face cord yesterday with my new splitter. Overall I'm very pleased with the results. I will post my pro/con list in a bit but I know there was some question about vibration. I can say this didn't vibrate much at all. What I will say, however, is I think what people are referring to is the weak jack stand that is used. This is what causes the wobble. I can see when using it how it will wiggle as it doesn't really provide a stable leg for the front end. I remiedied this by leaving it hooked to the ball on my Gator 6x4. This also worked great because as I split, I simply threw the logs into the bed. Big time saver. With it hitched up there was virtually zero movement from the splitter. Only minor vibration from the motor and flywheels which didn't look out of the norm. Here is the list:
Pro:
-Very fast splitting of all types of wood. Put some really knotty red oak in it and it went through it without issue AND I was only at half throttle.
-Easily handles very large circumference logs without issue.
-With the button mod it does make it much easier to operate
-Table is big enough to allow the logs to stay put with only a few falling off. Made for very efficient repeat splits
-Motor is very quite
-very stable when hooked up to a hitch
-Easy to maneuver for storage or hook up.
Con:
-Handle should be moved to the front. Working on modding it next
-front leg is not overly stable
-Logs that have angled cuts do jump off the table. This can be a bit of a hazard so watch out.
-Sometimes the ram when fully extended and then recoiling would cause the handle to pup up which caused some shock to my arm. Not sure why it did this but I'll keep an eye on it. Only happened a couple times.
All in all I think this is a great buy. Only time will tell on longevity but so far I'm very pleased with my purchase.
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litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice write up. Thank you very much!
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Thanks.
So the log cradle never gets in the way when sliding big rounds back to be re-split?
If you were splitting the edges off a big round - like taking small bites off the edge of a cookie, how big a round could you get between the cradle and the wedge without the cradle getting in the way? I'm thinking it may not be a big issue because rounds too big will be noodled most of the time anyway for ease of lifting, but knowing the clearance bwteen cradle edge and wedge could be helpful.
Could an owner please post pics of the rack head and the bearings and cradle (for lack of a better word) that keep it held to the I/H beam? Tks.
So the log cradle never gets in the way when sliding big rounds back to be re-split?
If you were splitting the edges off a big round - like taking small bites off the edge of a cookie, how big a round could you get between the cradle and the wedge without the cradle getting in the way? I'm thinking it may not be a big issue because rounds too big will be noodled most of the time anyway for ease of lifting, but knowing the clearance bwteen cradle edge and wedge could be helpful.
Could an owner please post pics of the rack head and the bearings and cradle (for lack of a better word) that keep it held to the I/H beam? Tks.
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Handle reversed....
Got the handle reversed today. Once you unbolt and unpin the handle, turn it around and line it up. Thanks for the heads up BSD. I made sure to keep the shaft centered and to check its movement before welding bracket together. The process really kinda fell together easier than I thought. As you can see from the pics [hopefully] the biggest problem is that your bracket is going to have to overhang the back of the sheet metal slightly. Make sure to remove and look under the sheet metal so you know where NOT to drill holes. Anyways... the only thing I've permanently changed from stock is the 2 holes I drilled in the sheet metal. Everything else goes back to stock quick and easy. Don't do this unless you are 100% comfortable with it. After watching the SS and DR videos, I had no problem doing it for ergonomic purposes [old wrist injury].... it's your call.
Now for the big question..... How does it work???
Worked Excellent!!! Considering I've only run a few rounds before modifications. Pushing down the handle in front is a lot easier than from the back. It took a total of 1 round to get used to it this way. Just pop down with palm of hand. Clearance won't let you get fingers under handle this way, not an issue for me. With some help from my wife, we split and loaded a pickup load of mixed oak in less than 20 min. Not bad for first time out.
Table will have to wait till at least next weekend. The log cradle wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...I got used to it. It's not hard to get the log positioned for splits.
And again...no vibration issues. The splitter does move around a little, but absolutely no more [if not less] than any vert./horiz. splitter I've used, in either position.
So far I'm very pleased...Best splitter in my budget...time will tell for sure.
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Got the handle reversed today. Once you unbolt and unpin the handle, turn it around and line it up. Thanks for the heads up BSD. I made sure to keep the shaft centered and to check its movement before welding bracket together. The process really kinda fell together easier than I thought. As you can see from the pics [hopefully] the biggest problem is that your bracket is going to have to overhang the back of the sheet metal slightly. Make sure to remove and look under the sheet metal so you know where NOT to drill holes. Anyways... the only thing I've permanently changed from stock is the 2 holes I drilled in the sheet metal. Everything else goes back to stock quick and easy. Don't do this unless you are 100% comfortable with it. After watching the SS and DR videos, I had no problem doing it for ergonomic purposes [old wrist injury].... it's your call.
Now for the big question..... How does it work???
Worked Excellent!!! Considering I've only run a few rounds before modifications. Pushing down the handle in front is a lot easier than from the back. It took a total of 1 round to get used to it this way. Just pop down with palm of hand. Clearance won't let you get fingers under handle this way, not an issue for me. With some help from my wife, we split and loaded a pickup load of mixed oak in less than 20 min. Not bad for first time out.
Table will have to wait till at least next weekend. The log cradle wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...I got used to it. It's not hard to get the log positioned for splits.
And again...no vibration issues. The splitter does move around a little, but absolutely no more [if not less] than any vert./horiz. splitter I've used, in either position.
So far I'm very pleased...Best splitter in my budget...time will tell for sure.
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Cool, I was going to mount mine up in that fashion too but the handle crushing my knuckles was a concern. I think i've got a better answer, which makes the handle the most ergonomic to use. My solution required permanent modification though; where as yours can go back to stock which is a plus for many people. as soon as I work the kinks out I'll post up some pictures.
Well I might catch some slack here but I for one went and demoed the speed pro at TSC and it didn't work out as well as I wanted it to. First it did split some of the wood that I took up there but when I got into some knotty beech it stopped it. When it got stuck we had to pry the ram back with crowbars. After this the guy running it tried to hit it several more times and it just couldn't do it. I tried couple of other pieces and it split them. Then again more beech with some knots and it was a no go so I ended up with the 35 ton husky and a four way wedge. I can see where if you had mostly good to decent wood that it would save a lot of time but I for one have a woods full of beech and feel that at this time I would be better off with the husky.
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
I was the guy who saw the wobbly demo of the SpeedPro at my local TSC. I went back to see the 2nd machine they put together and it was in better balance but still had some shake to it. The shaking is clearly from poor balancing as it is more significant than a motor would produce and is much worse at lower rotations (think rinse-cycle). They had the original machine working the front of the store as a demo unit with actual logs now. The kid started it up the super shaker, cut a few wimpy rounds then put a big round up and it wouldn't go through (!?) even after three repeats.
The problem was that the bar that runs down from the handle to engage the pinion was bent (I stayed while he took it out). So even though he could still engage it, the bend left the mechanism too sensitive (it's designed to "pop" out of gear when their is high pressure) so the thing was popping out of gear with very little resistance.
The question is, does this bend indicate a design flaw or misuse? I could see if someone tried to hold down the handle through the split, then the operator would be pushing down when the thing needs to release.
I noticed on the inside of the flywheels (when it was opened up) that there were a series of drill holes (all on one side), so it seems that balance correction is part of the manufacturing process. However, the job on this unit was obviously done poorly. Perhaps they'll get better with practice...
The DR units are shipping now. Anyone seen one?
I also found that LogRite has a kinetic model that has a couple nice features. I like the rope winch idea and how the splitter handle comes down low.
firewoodinator from LogRite - YouTube
Too much machine for my needs, but you pros might be interested.
The problem was that the bar that runs down from the handle to engage the pinion was bent (I stayed while he took it out). So even though he could still engage it, the bend left the mechanism too sensitive (it's designed to "pop" out of gear when their is high pressure) so the thing was popping out of gear with very little resistance.
The question is, does this bend indicate a design flaw or misuse? I could see if someone tried to hold down the handle through the split, then the operator would be pushing down when the thing needs to release.
I noticed on the inside of the flywheels (when it was opened up) that there were a series of drill holes (all on one side), so it seems that balance correction is part of the manufacturing process. However, the job on this unit was obviously done poorly. Perhaps they'll get better with practice...
The DR units are shipping now. Anyone seen one?
I also found that LogRite has a kinetic model that has a couple nice features. I like the rope winch idea and how the splitter handle comes down low.
firewoodinator from LogRite - YouTube
Too much machine for my needs, but you pros might be interested.
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Wow...glad I didn't save any knotty beech!!! I've run some pretty knotted oak through mine and so far have only had to hit 1 round more than once...using 2/3 throttle.
Although I do have a pretty good backup splitter for the big or knotted stuff...my dad and I built a splitter 30+ yrs ago...but I have to have a dozer hooked to it to provide hydraulics. It has split a lot of wood over the years. We'll keep it around for the big stuff...30 yrs and I haven't seen anything that it won't tackle. It's alright when you have helpers but a PITA by yourself. Plus, dozers make more $$$ when they are on the job...knockin down trees!!!
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Good deal...I'm looking forward to seeing what you've done.
I'm thinkin of just building a new handle all together with a slight bend in it. Probly not for a while though...the way I have it now works pretty good...100% better than the way it was. I just push down on the handle open handed, which is the way I found myself hitting it when the handle was at the back.
I'm definately curious to what you've done with yours!!! Table to replace log cradle is next...ideas anyone???
well, my original plan was to mount the stock handle at a 35 degree angle so it was more ergonomic to use. I modified my handle, welded on a bracket and then discovered the pin alignment was a problem. I un-welded the bracket, ground it smooth and went back to a reversed stock alignment. however I flipped the handle so it was closer to the work zone, I drilled out the otherside of the handle so the pin would fit and was about to call it a day. Then it dawned on me that the handle is made from 3/4" square tubing. I had some 1" square tubing that slipped right over the top of it, so I got the welder out again and came up with a more ergonomic solution. I think this will provide the most useful position to be in for extended times. I think where dozerman has his will lead to shoulder and elbow fatigue in a relatively short time. My handle is now at the perfect height for me where I don't have to shrug my shoulder to reach any more. keeping the handle closer to directly under your armpit should keep wear and tear on the body down the most too. The only question is how the handle, pin and bracket hold up for long-term use.
Anyways, on to the most important part. Pics and Vid.
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[video=facebook;270440906322937]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=270440906322937[/video]
Anyways, on to the most important part. Pics and Vid.
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[video=facebook;270440906322937]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=270440906322937[/video]
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Ok......I guess I'm building a new handle!!!
Excellent idea! I might have to beef up my bracket a little[time will tell], but I'm going to the scrap metal pile in the morning lookin for some small box tubing. Handle looks like a good place for good simple leverage. My idea is still better than stock....but yours is better for sure.....great job!
I'm sure some people are looking at us like we are nuts to modify a brand new splitter. This splitter works excellent as it is. If you are thinking of buying one, don't let the fact that we are tinkering with it deter you. Even if you set the log in the cradle, push in on the green button and push down on the handle simultaniously with both hands.....it's still hands down faster than hydraulic. No question about it for me. These are VERY MINOR modifications. If I had the SuperSplit or the DR RapidFire, I'm sure I would be tinkering with them. First thing with either/both would be to make it towable. Not just for highway use, but just to hook it to the truck to pull it to and from the shop [it's 200 yards to my log storage area...up hill]. I won't leave it outside, it would probly walk away.
BSD...keep up the good work. I'm curious to your ideas on the log cradle. It actually worked better than I expected but I do have 2 pieces of 1/8 inch sheet metal that are already set aside for the next rainy day....I better find some box tubing too!!!
Thank you BSD for the write-up, video, and pics.
Excellent idea! I might have to beef up my bracket a little[time will tell], but I'm going to the scrap metal pile in the morning lookin for some small box tubing. Handle looks like a good place for good simple leverage. My idea is still better than stock....but yours is better for sure.....great job!
I'm sure some people are looking at us like we are nuts to modify a brand new splitter. This splitter works excellent as it is. If you are thinking of buying one, don't let the fact that we are tinkering with it deter you. Even if you set the log in the cradle, push in on the green button and push down on the handle simultaniously with both hands.....it's still hands down faster than hydraulic. No question about it for me. These are VERY MINOR modifications. If I had the SuperSplit or the DR RapidFire, I'm sure I would be tinkering with them. First thing with either/both would be to make it towable. Not just for highway use, but just to hook it to the truck to pull it to and from the shop [it's 200 yards to my log storage area...up hill]. I won't leave it outside, it would probly walk away.
BSD...keep up the good work. I'm curious to your ideas on the log cradle. It actually worked better than I expected but I do have 2 pieces of 1/8 inch sheet metal that are already set aside for the next rainy day....I better find some box tubing too!!!
Thank you BSD for the write-up, video, and pics.
i modify almost everything to suit my needs better. Last year I bought a dump insert for my truck and the first thing I did was cut the front off to shorten it 6" to fit around my headache rack on my truck.
As for the cradle. I might leave it alone for now,but I was thinking of making a bolt-on replacement for the work zone side similar to the tables on the SS' and DR models. I think they've got something going there, just not sure if its all that helpful. I'm going to try to be more mindful next time i split a load to see how many pieces I have to pick up and put in the cradle versus just flipping them back. If it seems like a lot then a table mod might be in store.
The other mod I was thinking about doing is adding a hook on the back of the unit, just in case I bury the tongue, hook a chain to the backside and drag it out with the tractor, truck, goat.
As for the cradle. I might leave it alone for now,but I was thinking of making a bolt-on replacement for the work zone side similar to the tables on the SS' and DR models. I think they've got something going there, just not sure if its all that helpful. I'm going to try to be more mindful next time i split a load to see how many pieces I have to pick up and put in the cradle versus just flipping them back. If it seems like a lot then a table mod might be in store.
The other mod I was thinking about doing is adding a hook on the back of the unit, just in case I bury the tongue, hook a chain to the backside and drag it out with the tractor, truck, goat.
cjnspecial
ArboristSite Guru
Can you interrupt the cycle on these like on a SS? How long is that bronze wear plate supposed to last before it needs to be replaced and how much is it?
Great ideas boys. BSD, that is the design I was thinking of as well. I agree not having to lift your shoulder and press should help with fatigue. I may work on this over the next couple of days if I get some time. As for tinkering with new gear that is the only way to truely make it yours! 
when in doubt, mod it. That's how I roll. :msp_thumbup:
when in doubt, mod it. That's how I roll. :msp_thumbup:
