New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...
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TFPace
ArboristSite Operative
I just noticed how high your pivot point is, and you mentioned you extended the rod 2" already too. I made my pivot point as low as possible. this keeps the off-axis forces to a minimum. i think by kicking yours up like that you're leveraging the off-axis force and getting more flex.
TFPace
ArboristSite Operative
Hinge pivot point
BSD,
The reasoning behind was design was due impart to my handle. Notice where I have taken to 90's and connected them. Had I extending the distance between the nineties an inch or two I would have eliminated the need to raise the engagement rod. IOW's my handle was hitting the cabinet and not allowing optimum gear contact with the rack and pinion. I just made up a new rod so when I have some free time I can bend up a new handle with a wider distance between my 90's and go back to the original rod. My pivot point has a 2" CL IIRC.
All of these improvements were made on the fly so-to-speak. Maybe two hours worth of shop time max. It would have made way more sense to sit down design it on paper. I didn't, but we've got a much better operating splitter to show for.
Tom
BSD,
The reasoning behind was design was due impart to my handle. Notice where I have taken to 90's and connected them. Had I extending the distance between the nineties an inch or two I would have eliminated the need to raise the engagement rod. IOW's my handle was hitting the cabinet and not allowing optimum gear contact with the rack and pinion. I just made up a new rod so when I have some free time I can bend up a new handle with a wider distance between my 90's and go back to the original rod. My pivot point has a 2" CL IIRC.
All of these improvements were made on the fly so-to-speak. Maybe two hours worth of shop time max. It would have made way more sense to sit down design it on paper. I didn't, but we've got a much better operating splitter to show for.
Tom
OK, got the camera out again to show the capability of these splitters. double stem red oak crotch, ~15" diameter and 8-10" stems. The piece was cut to 18" length.
I will NOT be splitting any more pieces like this again. its just flat out dangerous. They will go on the hydro splitter next time. you have far more time to react to a bad split attempt there. the amount of force that is transferred from the flywheels if you have a dead-stop are just way too dangerous. I only filmed this to show what they will do. This piece of red oak was really nasty inside. I actually was going to give up on it because I was afraid for my safety, hence the pause in the middle of the video, but I figured some of the doubters need to see what they will really do.
[video=facebook;272170812816613]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=272170812816613[/video]
I will NOT be splitting any more pieces like this again. its just flat out dangerous. They will go on the hydro splitter next time. you have far more time to react to a bad split attempt there. the amount of force that is transferred from the flywheels if you have a dead-stop are just way too dangerous. I only filmed this to show what they will do. This piece of red oak was really nasty inside. I actually was going to give up on it because I was afraid for my safety, hence the pause in the middle of the video, but I figured some of the doubters need to see what they will really do.
[video=facebook;272170812816613]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=272170812816613[/video]
mooseracing
ArboristSite Operative
Definitely good to see, it's what no one has shown yet. Most of us home owners aren't going to have 2 splitters, but I can borrow a hydraulic one or split the crotchety stuff down enough to fit in the stove and not worry about it.
I've done the same thing on the hydraulic though, you get enough force trying to split a knotted piece and the next day you have a very large black and blu mark on your leg.
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Cool Video...BSD
You don't see SS or DR putting big red oak crotch pieces through there splitters in any of there videos, now that you mention it.....now we see why.
On the other hand, those are the "crotch shot" pieces in a vert/hydro splitter too. But yes, that looks dangerous. Obviously careful log position is a must, either way. But like you said, reaction time is a big plus...
You don't see SS or DR putting big red oak crotch pieces through there splitters in any of there videos, now that you mention it.....now we see why.
On the other hand, those are the "crotch shot" pieces in a vert/hydro splitter too. But yes, that looks dangerous. Obviously careful log position is a must, either way. But like you said, reaction time is a big plus...
cjnspecial
ArboristSite Guru
I imagine beating the heck out of a piece of wood like that is really tough on the rack and pinion. Excellent video, thanks for posting it.
buildmyown
ArboristSite Operative
I split pieces like that all the time on the SS. I normally set them on the beam with the Y part of the log facing the wedge so that the Y is vertical. Kinda like this wdge would be here >- Now hit it, it might take more then one shot to get through that portion of the Y now flip it over and do the same to the other part of the Y. Now that its split in half you can read the grain better and work those two half down to the size you want. Something else seams odd Ive never had a piece bounce off the wedge like yours did they always get stuck into the wedge maybe only a few inches but still never bounce off. Also on odd shaped pieces ill use my free hand to help hold them in place. Also could those return springs be any stronger on that.
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Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
Buildmyown...
I agree...after watching BSD's video a couple more times...it seems as though the splitter is disengaging a little premature sometimes. Mine does't release hardly ever...it either drives through or drives until it stalls...at which it rarely if ever kicks out and returns...most often it stalls until I release it. Then hit it again. Rarely have hit more than once though. That's the way it's been since new. Then again, I might not have run into the right piece yet either. I've run some pretty knotted 24"+ white and red oak though. I'll find a big crotch piece tomorrow and see what happens.
And no, I don't think the return springs can be any stronger...mine seems to return really hard, IMHO anyways. The ram actually seems to bounce off the stops. I'm curious if the SS returns that hard.
I agree...after watching BSD's video a couple more times...it seems as though the splitter is disengaging a little premature sometimes. Mine does't release hardly ever...it either drives through or drives until it stalls...at which it rarely if ever kicks out and returns...most often it stalls until I release it. Then hit it again. Rarely have hit more than once though. That's the way it's been since new. Then again, I might not have run into the right piece yet either. I've run some pretty knotted 24"+ white and red oak though. I'll find a big crotch piece tomorrow and see what happens.
And no, I don't think the return springs can be any stronger...mine seems to return really hard, IMHO anyways. The ram actually seems to bounce off the stops. I'm curious if the SS returns that hard.
buildmyown
ArboristSite Operative
Cmccul8146
ArboristSite Member
Ive never had a piece bounce off the wedge like yours did they always get stuck into the wedge maybe only a few inches but still never bounce off. Also could those return springs be any stronger on that
Never have had any bounce off mine either. My first impression while watching this video was , and still is, that you have not split enough knotty or crotch pieces to learn to read the wood for these high speed splitters. ( Not being critical, just my opinion ) Don't give up on the nasty stuff yet, BSD. Being a new owner of one these flywheel splitters , you'll discover after a very short time that you can split about anything with them safely. When you run into some of the knotty or crotch pieces, lay them aside until you have time to experiment with them. A little practice & you won't consider saving them for a hydraulic machine. Enjoy your new toy, & thanks for posting the video.
The return springs do seem pretty strong, judging from how the whole machine jumps back on the return .
Never have had any bounce off mine either. My first impression while watching this video was , and still is, that you have not split enough knotty or crotch pieces to learn to read the wood for these high speed splitters. ( Not being critical, just my opinion ) Don't give up on the nasty stuff yet, BSD. Being a new owner of one these flywheel splitters , you'll discover after a very short time that you can split about anything with them safely. When you run into some of the knotty or crotch pieces, lay them aside until you have time to experiment with them. A little practice & you won't consider saving them for a hydraulic machine. Enjoy your new toy, & thanks for posting the video.
The return springs do seem pretty strong, judging from how the whole machine jumps back on the return .
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i know I could have split that piece backwards and come out ahead much easier, I split it in that fashion to show what it will do for the doubters. I didn't want people posting "oh you cheated by splitting it the easy way"
The return springs are loose as they can be, in fact one of them already fell off after a violent strike last week.
The fact that it was bouncing off like that is probably do to the modifications I've done, but also the piece. This was a truely nasty piece of wood, I've split pieces just like it in the 26t hydro machine and it'll damn near kill that machine too if you read the grain wrong.
The return springs are loose as they can be, in fact one of them already fell off after a violent strike last week.
The fact that it was bouncing off like that is probably do to the modifications I've done, but also the piece. This was a truely nasty piece of wood, I've split pieces just like it in the 26t hydro machine and it'll damn near kill that machine too if you read the grain wrong.
CenterTree
Firewood hacker
WOW!, That video makes me think twice. Thanks for posting. I saw this machine today at my local TSC. Looks decent, price is better than DR and SS of course.
As I inspected it at TSC I too feel that the green safety button would be a PITA. But it also would be very safe and possibly save the operator from loosing his left hand (or a few fingers) if he inadvertently placed it on the log and hit the lever.
I know if ya kept your wits about you while using this machine it would be OK, but it only takes ONE time of complacency to be in the ER.
How do you like the table on that thing?? :msp_confused: It seem like the raised lip at the end might be a hindrance to letting the split pieces fall to the ground. (the ones that need no further splitting) Of course maybe the operator would NOT want the big ones to fall.
Nice job on the handle mod though.... INGENIOUS I must say.
Eek!
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
What's the cost for the extended warranty? Interested to see if that gets it up closer to the price of the DR and SS.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Doesn't sound good. Makes you wonder whether the price is just a tad too cheap. It may be they won't do a thing to improve the quality, rather up the price to cover for the higher than anticipated warranty claims, in which case, those risk takers willing to roll the dice might want to buy now and rely on the warranty, before the price goes up, or just buy the more expensive splitter brands and be done with it?
Dozer Man
ArboristSite Operative
SpeedPro cost....
I tried to get them down with no such luck. $1699 + $199.99 for 3yr. extended warranty. That's 4 years of warranty for $1900. Still an excellent deal to me.
No mechanical issues with anything on the splitter (I did remove the safety button and reverse the handle though...lots more user friendly) . It's split some pretty nasty large stuff too. It kinda makes you wonder...2 failed units....from the same store.....probly put together by the same guy........Hmmm...?!?!?! It's the first issues I've heard of so far.
I love mine!!
I tried to get them down with no such luck. $1699 + $199.99 for 3yr. extended warranty. That's 4 years of warranty for $1900. Still an excellent deal to me.
No mechanical issues with anything on the splitter (I did remove the safety button and reverse the handle though...lots more user friendly) . It's split some pretty nasty large stuff too. It kinda makes you wonder...2 failed units....from the same store.....probly put together by the same guy........Hmmm...?!?!?! It's the first issues I've heard of so far.
I love mine!!
Iron Mike
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't you think you might have voided the extended warranty you paid 200 bucks for by modifying the splitter and removing the factory safety features?
