Newbie Questions on Milling with a Chainsaw Mill (homemade)

[n8ghz]

Here is a test picture added using an off-forum hosting site.

Greenlee/Fairmont Hydraulic Chainsaw model H6200-B

This is to see if I can caption my pics, so as to better describe them?


after viewing: I think I can do a better job now.

 

[john taliaferro]

Doesn't look like much motor bet it will be silent .

 

[BobL]

I recommend posting the images direct to AS over posting to an off-site image storage.
If your off-site store goes down or you cancel your off-site image store account, this leaves your text on AS but no pictures so your info becomes much devalued.

We used to have a fantastic English member called Railomatic who was a highly innovative CS manufacturer. He posted many images and helped many people by posting images as solutions. Now many of his posts are devalued because his photobucket site is not longer operating. I managed to scrounge some images from some of his posts and put them into the milling 101 sticky but most are lost.

 

[n8ghz]

Roger on keeping pic on this site's server. But it is combersome to do, expecially on a complicated build. I have a computer in my garage and usually when I set down to take a break, I see what's going on here and other places. Every once in awhile I want to post some updates.

Another problem that I think all free-lance builders encounter, is being that I/We? are not following a set of drawings, and are building as we dream solutions up, our verbalized ideas change as we try to impliment them. Sometimes completely different than what we said a day ago.
Maybe it's just me?....but I realize it.

What I am thinking of doing, is to try to keep those of you who are interested, somewhat up to date, at least on basic components of the design. I can do that a little better now that I can add captioning to pictures and keep the reader in the same thread. However, not wanting to monopolize the sawing thread at the same time. So, what I may do, is some modular updates here, briefly captioning what the thing is,etc.

Years ago, as a HAM, I had a fairly large website depicting my favorite hobby aspects and the equipment that I did it with, etc. I long ago deleted the whole thing and haven't built a website since. I am quite rusty, but can still do a simple site that can be easy to navagate thru. I'll leave out all the bells & whistles that I had in the HAM site, though.....neat to do, but time consuming.

I have alot of space on the ISP that I use, but haven't used any. Yesterday, though, I started playing with it, mainly just to see if that approach would be simpler to describe what I think I am doing with this project to others ....and if I remembered how to do a website...ha ha

I can add a more thorough description of things, I think, by doing it offline/ off-forum and posting a link to it. Then if someone wants to ask a Q about what they see, they can ask here & I'll try to answer it.

I don't intend to have the website accept comments....it'll be read only.

I may add my email address so that anyone who finds the site can email me if they want to.

John

 

[n8ghz]

Well during my breaks, I have been screwing around with the webpage idea.

But have been cautioned since posting, that it may be a forum violation to link to it.

Also advised it may detract from the archival value of this forum itself?

So the following is <deleted>

Here is the link for those that would like to beta-test it.

Link removed 7pm EST. 2/01/2012

Feedback here please, I have not added any email address to it yet.

I think anyone here could email thru AS as a PM or private?

I will add some metatags for the search engines after I play with it for awhile.
A webpage can be addicting to add to....building one comes back quickly, it's just how much time I can devote to it.....but I will fill in alot of the dead cliks, sooner than later.

I put a bunch of my builds on there, but now I need to become a cameraman....or just delete some of the items. I doubt I will do that though, there may be some folks who get inspired to build some of the things themselves from my ideas, that is what it's all about.

I looked at a lot of other folks ideas, and will continue to do so, and I encourage others to peruse my ideas.

<Link Gone>


Hope you like it.

John

 

[Fundyheather]

the web page works and what a nice saw! Good luck with it.
jim

 

[BobL]

John, I think you have missed the point about how AS is supposed to work, which is to be a centralized repository of information and discussion with occasional links to outside site. Putting material on an independent website and asking members to discuss the material here is IMHO worse than posting images offsite. The discussion can have little meaning without the pictures and descriptions of the pictures unless a lot of links between the sites are set up which I doubt many members will bother to insert or refer to. I also wonder how happy the mods will be about this.

 

[n8ghz]

BobL, I didn't miss the point, I took the path of least resistance. I still intended to post snipetts here and try to caption them.

The website attempt, was to allow me to more easily explain things.
And it does that.

Another problem with forums, is that you can't go back very far & clarify what was said.
You can, thru a lot of discussion, but it is not easy.

I am not a business, I am a retired hobbyist.
It comes to mind, all the links to commercial sites.....are those Ok?
Yes, they PAY for that, I suppose?

I am just a hobbyist trying to share ideas with others of like-mind.




If the link to my website is a violation, I think I can still edit that post and remove it.

I will see if I can now. < Done, GONE>

Thanks for your observations.

john


7:10 PM EST:
PS: was able to remove link....it has been removed.

If the moderators have a problem then I'd like to hear from them.
Until then the link has been removed.

From the guidelines:
<2. Direct links to and/or mentioning other Green Industry forum sites are not permitted at ArboristSite.com. Links that contain information that is related to the thread content are permitted on the condition that:
A) The link must be to a particular post or thread in the other forum, not the forum homepage itself.
B) It must be relevant to the discussion where it's being linked from.
C) ArboristSite.com reserves the right to censor any website.

Maybe I should have my membership suspended or maybe even revoked ?

Whatever is OK with me.

John

 

[n8ghz]

Well, I never received any warnings from any moderators and have not been banned, so I have been busy building more parts of the chainsaw mill. I have also spent more time on my web pages. I did add a comment page to it, even though I did not intend to.

As to the previous discussion on pictures, linking, and feedback, etc. In the guidelines, and in your profile itself, the forum provides for a link to a member's personal web site.

So I added that link.

If anyone wants to read and see, more details of this project ( or others ),

simply click my user name, and select 'Visit Homepage'.


Sorry to have been problematic, but I needed to thouroughly read the forum rules, in case I was violating them.

None of the pictures within the website are proprietary, so feel free to copy/paste for your own collection or to comment on.


Thank you,
John

 

[n8ghz]

BobL said:

<We used to have a fantastic English member called Railomatic who was a highly innovative CS manufacturer. He posted many images and helped many people by posting images as solutions. Now many of his posts are devalued because his photobucket site is not longer operating. I managed to scrounge some images from some of his posts and put them into the milling 101 sticky but most are lost.>


I'm kinda thick, but I wonder why he quit posting?
Photobucket still exists. So......?

john

 

[BobL]

I'm kinda thick, but I wonder why he quit posting?
Photobucket still exists. So......?

I dunno - Maybe he had an argument with someone on this site and as we call it "spat the dummy"

 

[Old Blue]

Mr n8g8z

The selfish bastart in me hopes you will stop working on websites etc and work on your mill. I am not trying to be a prick so please don't be offended. I do hope to see some pics or better yet video when you are ready.

disclaimer.. ihave been drinking...remove if necessary

Old Blue
Plain old screwed in...
Kali-bone-ya

 

[n8ghz]

I will do that, I am getting close....so close that I may run it inside the garage.
We have about 6" of snow outside right now.

 

[n8ghz]

Latest parts are these dogs & screws.

View attachment 223570
View attachment 223571
View attachment 223572
View attachment 223573
View attachment 223574

Ball screws are 1" x 4 tpi with ~17.5" travel.
Log Table is 20" and with the screws & these cleats, I can do at least a 15" log....probably up to 20".
The bar I'm going to start with will only do 15" (it's a 20"), so I can test anyhow.
Cleats can be pinned in several positions.
Without the cleats, the log wanted to roll when I put pressure against it.

I think these will work?
The stands are close together while I work thru these problems, in actual use they will be at least 4 or more feet apart, probably 8 feet?


it's past my bedtime, so I didn't go thru all the steps to make the pics appear in here.

john

 

[Earl68754]

Take your time, milling ain't cookie cuttin'.

You can use regular full chisel chain, but I would re-file to a 8 to 10 degree top plate angle.
I have only used semi-chisel for milling.

 

[n8ghz]

The chain on the 20" bar is brand new Oregon full-chisel. To start with, I will use that. I don't have any logs here at the garage that are longer than firewood. I'll have to jury-rig the stands just to be able to hold those short ones. But it'll be gratifying just to see a few become flat on a couple of sides or make a square. Length is not needed for testing the dogs, lift, saw mount, and so on.

I do have (2) 25' rolls of Carlton ripping chain in 3/8x.050 & .063, and the tools,presets,etc. to make some rip chains, but for now, I need to work thru the initial problems.....the chains will come later.

Thanks
John

 

[Talltom]

n8ghz: It's not readily apparent how you will adjust the height of the log bed/stands or how much adjustment range you will have. With fixed bar height, you need a lot of range. The Logosol mills also use a fixed bar height and provide a 16" range for log height adjustment. This has been sufficient for most of the cutting I have done. You can always make the initial cut lower than you would otherwise and reload the top slab to cut a board or 2 from that. The first slab is likely to bow as it comes off, however, so you're liable to get taper along the length when you cut boards from it.

As far as spacing for the log stands, adjustable is best. 8 ft would be a good distance for 12 foot lumber. You will get sag when the cant is thin and you're cutting the last few boards. It's a tradeoff of sag at the ends or in the middle, but its easier to use a stout board or supplemental table under the cant to support the middle than supporting the ends. You will need a board for this when cutting logs and cants that are shorter than the span of your stands if the stand spacing isn't adjustable. The table you see under the crotch log is made of 2x4 white oak and is plenty strong to span the 6'2'' between the log supports. You will need to figure out how to attach both the table or board to the stands and the cant/log to the table. I screw the table into the mill's aluminum log supports and use wooden blocks, shims and clamps to hold the log.

View attachment 223639

 

[n8ghz]

TallTom, thanks for the pic of your logosol and your tips.

My frame/table is similar and has ~14" of lift. I think at the apex, I am about 2" from the bar, so I can clear 16" and I am thinking that I can square off something around 20" or even larger to cut in half, dependant on the bar length at the time?
My table lift is using (2) 10,000# outrigger jacks. I haven't settled on the frame spacing, but do agree that it needs to be variable and the further apart, the more shimming required when doing the last thin cuts. Tradeoff is the perfect word.

The more I think about it, 5.5 or 6' apart to start sounds about right for 8' boards and set it up further apart if I ever need to?

I realize that I will have to devise and have, some common shimming material handy. Your points on that are well received.

I am thinking of something like your wood frame/shim and possibly installing a pair of 1/2" pipe clamps that can adjust to a width less than the wood frame's width for clamping the last of the thinner stuff with.

However, my 17" screws may work as is, even in conjunction with the supporting wood shim-frame? The wood is just to deal with droop.

I can add some steel tabs to the lift-frame so the wooden frame can be fastened to it......probably just pound 4 or 6 carriage bolts flush in the wood, and drop it into the tabs and put nuts on them.

"necessity is the mother of invention" Plato

 

[Talltom]

If your log stands only comes within 2" of your saw bar, you'll need to use a board or table to raise the cant for the final thin cut, anyway. Clamps and shims work fine for cuts high on the log, but tend to get in the way for the final cuts. The saw will pull the cant toward the guide rail, so you only need something to stop it on the inside of the log table. I used a couple pieces of wood that I pivot up to extend about 3/4 inch above the top of the table. Unless you're going to cut lumber with a minimum thickness of 2", you need an easy way to cut thinner lumber, as this will affect many more logs than the maximum depth.

The distance between the bottom of the chain and the log stands/table is the key measurement for adjustment, and needs to be accurate and easily repeatable for both log stands. My M-5 uses pins in a drilled plate. It's accurate but a bit cumbersome. The M-7 has a ratchet system that's much easier to use. The ratchet plate is adjustable to accomodate different bars and chains. The accuracy of this adjustment will affect all of your cuts after the first cut on each face.

 

[n8ghz]

Took a few days off from building to go look at a Toy Hauler, but am back at it.

Decided on a width for the frame, mostly based on hurrying-up & getting to cut something, and with scrap material sizes laying around. I can always make other length cross-members.
Anywho, I set it at 5' 9" apart using some lengths of 2x2 square that made it be that length.
I hate to cut stuff if I don't have to.

5' 9" will be fine, (?), for doing an 8 footer...for a trial cut.

pics to follow.

I am getting so close, and the weather has been so mild, (after the 6" snow went away), that I am about to take it apart & put it together outside and give it a GO.

Also, have added the hydraulic motor to move the log up & down.