Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

Jim, early 5200's also had only one center screw holding the top cover on it as well.

That saw in the picture could be any who knows what and who ever painted it that way should be ashamed of there self.

That said, if it is all original parts, it is either a 4400, 4900 or 5400 because of the extended tank and the HD recoil cover on it.

here is onother pic of it.View attachment 259271

 

[tilenick]

Poulan 245 chain question

I am putting together a 245 from a couple of parts saws I got online and am having trouble getting the 60 dl 3/8 .50 chain on my 16" bar That came off my 306. It should be the same bar, right? The crankcase came off a 245sa with powersharp is this different than the regular 245a.
Thanks, Nick.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Anyone know where I can get rings for 3400 countervibe. I torn mine down today piston is in good shape "chrome piston". The cylinder has streaks just above the exhaust port, but should not hurt it can't even feel them. I really would like to replace the rings. So far the only ones I have found were over $25 on fleabay. Thinking should be able to find some else where. Also going to need crankshaft seals and carb kit. Any ideas?

Well those rings are not made anymore. Get em where ever you can find em. Seals, carb kits and fuel lines are no trouble to get.

here is onother pic of it.View attachment 259271

So whats the scoop? Who owns this now?

I am putting together a 245 from a couple of parts saws I got online and am having trouble getting the chain on my 16" bar off my 306. It should be the same bar, right? The crankcase came off a 245sa with powersharp is this different than the regular 245a.
Thanks, Nick.

Yes the bars are the same. I have no idea what you have going on though...

 

[tilenick]

The chain seems too tight to go on the bar. I have had this bar and chain on my 306 but although I loosened up the adjuster screw i can't get the thing on the bar. It is weird i have never had trouble with putting one on in all my life


Ps. I think I fixed my original question. Added some info

 

[3000 FPS]

Anyone know where I can get rings for 3400 countervibe. I torn mine down today piston is in good shape "chrome piston". The cylinder has streaks just above the exhaust port, but should not hurt it can't even feel them. I really would like to replace the rings. So far the only ones I have found were over $25 on fleabay. Thinking should be able to find some else where. Also going to need crankshaft seals and carb kit. Any ideas?

For crank seals try national 253747

 

[3000 FPS]

The chain seems too tight to go on the bar. I have had this bar and chain on my 306 but although I loosened up the adjuster screw i can't get the thing on the bar. It is weird i have never had trouble with putting one on in all my life


Ps. I think I fixed my original question. Added some info

I have seen 16" bars that take 59,60, and 64 drive links and who knows how many other variations there are. Plus the number of teeth on the drive sprocket.

 

[fossil]

Anyone know where I can get rings for 3400 countervibe. I torn mine down today piston is in good shape "chrome piston". The cylinder has streaks just above the exhaust port, but should not hurt it can't even feel them. I really would like to replace the rings. So far the only ones I have found were over $25 on fleabay. Thinking should be able to find some else where. Also going to need crankshaft seals and carb kit. Any ideas?

Can't help you with the rings but the compression on these saws is only 130 -135 pounds. If you are in that range you are OK

As far as crank seals go, These are what I used,
National seal 253747

or CR6120 seals work as well

It helps when installing the clutch side seal if you slip a piece of 1/2" copper pipe over the crank snout to get over the square shoulder to prevent damaging the seal

Carb kit is a Walbro K10-HDB (assuming you have a Walbro HDB carb on it.)
Get the seals at a local bearing shop and the carb kits can be had easily on line or at a small engine shop.

Check your fuel lines and filter as well

 

[Acornhill]

Well those rings are not made anymore. Get em where ever you can find em. Seals, carb kits and fuel lines are no trouble to get.




So whats the scoop? Who owns this now? Mark, someone owns it that has asked me to help him with it. ID and get it running. He needs fuel line etc.





Yes the bars are the same. I have no idea what you have going on though...

Reply

 

[tilenick]

I have seen 16" bars that take 59,60, and 64 drive links and who knows how many other variations there are. Plus the number of teeth on the drive sprocket.

The 245 "frankensaw" has 9 teeth on the sprocket. And it appears that both of my 306 saws and the donor 245 have 7. Looks like I need to change the sprocket to a 7 pin to make the runners all the same. Thanks. Is there a tool I can use or cobble together to take the clutch and sprocket off? This will be my first sprocket swap on this model if saw.

 

[dumbarky]

Can't help you with the rings but the compression on these saaws is only 130 -135 pounds. If you are in that range you are OK

As far as crank seals go, These are what I used,
National seal 253747

or CR6120 seals work as well

It helps when installing the clutch side seal if you slip a piece of 1/2" copper pipe over the crank snout to get over the square shoulder to prevent damaging the seal

Carb kit is a Walbro K10-HDB (assuming you have a Walbro HDB carb on it.)
Get the seals at a local bearing shop and the carb kits can be had easily on line or at a small engine shop.

Check your fuel lines and filter as well

Do you think I can pull the seals without splitting the crankcase. I have gotten them out of a 55 husqvarna before but these poulans are really small inside diameter to outside diameter. I used a couple of sheet rock screws in the husky ones and a block of wood and a claw hammer. You get the picture. Worked like a champ.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The 245 "frankensaw" has 9 teeth on the sprocket. And it appears that both of my 306 saws and the donor 245 have 7. Looks like I need to change the sprocket to a 7 pin to make the runners all the same. Thanks. Is there a tool I can use or cobble together to take the clutch and sprocket off? This will be my first sprocket swap on this model if saw.

Its a good thing you didnt get the chain on. A 9 tooth sprocket means that it is a .325 pitch!

Yes there is a proper tool to remove that clutch but you can use two pin punch's in the holes with a bar in between them to turn the clutch spider loose.

 

[67L36Driver]

Its a good thing you didnt get the chain on. A 9 tooth sprocket means that it is a .325 pitch!

Yes there is a proper tool to remove that clutch but you can use two pin punch's in the holes with a bar in between them to turn the clutch spider loose.

I just did two 306 types by chucking a pair of 3/16" drill bits on 1 1/16" centers, shank up, in my bench vise. Hold the clutch and turn the saw.

Give the clutch hub some wacks with a medium freakin' hammer to break loose the crud/rust beforehand.

Carefull, a broken drill bit is scary.

 

[fossil]

Do you think I can pull the seals without splitting the crankcase. I have gotten them out of a 55 husqvarna before but these poulans are really small inside diameter to outside diameter. I used a couple of sheet rock screws in the husky ones and a block of wood and a claw hammer. You get the picture. Worked like a champ.

Not sure. I split the cases to check the crank bearings and thrust washers because I thought the clearances were too high.

Go for it and if you can't get them out split the cases, change the seals and reseal the case halves with motoseal or equivalent.

Very easy job on these saws if you have some mechanical aptitude.

 

[tilenick]

Thanks guys, I used two round concrete nails and a big flat head to turn the clutch, as well as the rope in the cylinder trick I heard from you all. The parts donor saw was a little harder I had to shove a couple of loops of rope in-between the crank and case because the p&c are off and no good. It isn't worth putting them together again but I got them swapped and the chain and bar work now. Btw why would someone put a .325 chain on a 74cc saw. That seems like far too small a chain for all that power. It seems to me that if anything it should have a bigger chain.
Thanks, Nick

 

[3000 FPS]

Do you think I can pull the seals without splitting the crankcase. I have gotten them out of a 55 husqvarna before but these poulans are really small inside diameter to outside diameter. I used a couple of sheet rock screws in the husky ones and a block of wood and a claw hammer. You get the picture. Worked like a champ.

I have pulled the seals using a lisle seal puller and installed the new ones without splitting the case. Take a good look at the depth of the seal before you remove it to get the new one back into the same place.

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks guys, I used two round concrete nails and a big flat head to turn the clutch, as well as the rope in the cylinder trick I heard from you all. The parts donor saw was a little harder I had to shove a couple of loops of rope in-between the crank and case because the p&c are off and no good. It isn't worth putting them together again but I got them swapped and the chain and bar work now. Btw why would someone put a .325 chain on a 74cc saw. That seems like far too small a chain for all that power. It seems to me that if anything it should have a bigger chain.
Thanks, Nick

Pull smaller chips at a faster rate. I did the same sort of thing with one of my Remy SL-4s. I discovered someone put a 3/8 LP bar/chain on it so I just went to a 8 tooth rim.

 

[redunshee]

Anyone know where I can get rings for 3400 countervibe. I torn mine down today piston is in good shape "chrome piston". The cylinder has streaks just above the exhaust port, but should not hurt it can't even feel them. I really would like to replace the rings. So far the only ones I have found were over $25 on fleabay. Thinking should be able to find some else where. Also going to need crankshaft seals and carb kit. Any ideas?

Sometimes I've flipped the rings i.e. top to bottom and vice versa. The top ring wears the most so often this switch helps out. What is compression? If its 125-130 you are probably okay with what you have. Replace cylinder w/o a gasket using a good sealant like Dirko or Motoseal and you'll help compression a little.

 

[redunshee]

I have pulled the seals using a lisle seal puller and installed the new ones without splitting the case. Take a good look at the depth of the seal before you remove it to get the new one back into the same place.

Yup. I do it all the time w/o splitting the case. Seal should be flush with case boss or very slightly below. On the clutch side , as someone earlier stated, use something to place over the crank so the seal lip doesn't get caught on the crank lip. There are a lot of things you can use ex. a piece of an aluminum pie plate, aluminum foil wrapped around the lip, etc. I also apply a little grease to the crank so the rubber portion of the seal doesn't flip up.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks guys, I used two round concrete nails and a big flat head to turn the clutch, as well as the rope in the cylinder trick I heard from you all. The parts donor saw was a little harder I had to shove a couple of loops of rope in-between the crank and case because the p&c are off and no good. It isn't worth putting them together again but I got them swapped and the chain and bar work now. Btw why would someone put a .325 chain on a 74cc saw. That seems like far too small a chain for all that power. It seems to me that if anything it should have a bigger chain.
Thanks, Nick

Because it was on a Power Sharp saw and it needed the bigger sprocket to match the profile of the sharpening stone on it.

On the other hand, I have seen Dayton branded versions with the Power Sharp and .404 chain on them. Go figure....

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Its a good thing you didnt get the chain on. A 9 tooth sprocket means that it is a .325 pitch!

Yes there is a proper tool to remove that clutch but you can use two pin punch's in the holes with a bar in between them to turn the clutch spider loose.

I think that's the one I used two Phillips screwdrivers in the holes with a heater hose clamp around the handles with a pry bar in between to loosen. Worked for me.