Nik's Poulan Thread

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3400 update

Well, it's definitely in the carb. I took a carb, from another saw, and put it on, and it ran fine. So, I pulled the carb back apart, ran it through about 10 more heated cycles in the USC, and now have it soaking in carb cleaner. When I take it out, I give it a couple more spins in the USC, and see what happens..........:dizzy:
 
Well, it's definitely in the carb. I took a carb, from another saw, and put it on, and it ran fine. So, I pulled the carb back apart, ran it through about 10 more heated cycles in the USC, and now have it soaking in carb cleaner. When I take it out, I give it a couple more spins in the USC, and see what happens..........:dizzy:

You said it was way high before and had to lower it a bunch, and I have said this before here, but do yourself a favor and check the inlet needle lever very closely where it piviots on the pin to make sure its loops are not bent or streached out as it will not allow the needle to move properly if its damaged.
 
I am used to buying bars and chains, just never had to buy a sprocket.

What do you think sprockets sell for now days? What you paid for the saw dont make any difference to the price of sprockets.

If you think thats too much I hope you never have to buy a bar and chain for one, you will have a heart attack. :laugh:

So, that being said, what do you think the right price should be?
Larry
 
You said it was way high before and had to lower it a bunch, and I have said this before here, but do yourself a favor and check the inlet needle lever very closely where it piviots on the pin to make sure its loops are not bent or streached out as it will not allow the needle to move properly if its damaged.

What Mark said. PLus if memory serves me the carb kit comes with a new metering lever. Use it and the needle. I've tried to use the old ones. Not worth it.
 
Correct. Also if you plan to use the saw alot, get a rim sprocket. A little more up front but much cheaper when all you have to do is replace the rim and not the whole sprocket in the future. Like about $7-$8.

Plus the chain stays where you set it longer and doesn't get tight then loose like the spur sprocket.
 
How doI get the rim sprocket for the old S25

Correct. Also if you plan to use the saw alot, get a rim sprocket. A little more up front but much cheaper when all you have to do is replace the rim and not the whole sprocket in the future. Like about $7-$8.

The local equipment dealer just ordered me one (drum, gave me no choice). What do I tell them?
Larry
 
The local equipment dealer just ordered me one (drum, gave me no choice). What do I tell them?
Larry

Larry what I would do is spend some time on ebay looking at the different type sprockets and what they sell for so you get a feel for a price that is fair not cheap. As far as the drum is concerned, unless you plan on using the crap out of that saw you will probably not wear it out. If you do, in the mean time do some research and get what you think you want next time.

Roger
 
since it's been out for a while and everyone who gets the ad should have had time to order... check Bailey's for the 16" combo sale if you're in need. around $13 for the average non-safety chain firewood cutter.
 
Thanks guys, one more question about sprockets

What I would like to understand is, is the drum sprocket different if you have a rim or do you just add a rim to the same drum sprocket?.
Larry
 
What I would like to understand is, is the drum sprocket different if you have a rim or do you just add a rim to the same drum sprocket?.
Larry

A picture is worth a thousand words. The first sprocket is a rim sprocket. Notice the diff. between pictures. When the rim goes bad all you do is replace it and not the drum. When the spur sprockets is worn you replace the whole unit.

Stihl MS290 029 MS310 325 8T Sprocket w Bearing New | eBay

New 6 Tooth Sprocket for Several Models of McCulloch and Ryobi | eBay

OOPS. Disregard the ryobi sprocket. Pasted wrong one. This is the rim sprocket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-066-R...511618187?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item589842848b
 
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A picture is worth a thousand words. The first sprocket is a rim sprocket. Notice the diff. between pictures. When the rim goes bad all you do is replace it and not the drum. When the spur sprockets is worn you replace the whole unit.

Stihl MS290 029 MS310 325 8T Sprocket w Bearing New | eBay

New 6 Tooth Sprocket for Several Models of McCulloch and Ryobi | eBay

OOPS. Disregard the ryobi sprocket. Pasted wrong one. This is the rim sprocket
Stihl 066 Rim Sprocket Assembly 3 8 7T 660 Mag 064 066 650 1122 160 2900 GL | eBay

Sometimes on the rim sprockets, if they're worn enough you have to replace both. I bought a saw last year that had the rim worn through so bad it went into the splines.
 
Correct. Also if you plan to use the saw alot, get a rim sprocket. A little more up front but much cheaper when all you have to do is replace the rim and not the whole sprocket in the future. Like about $7-$8.

Bob, you got a line on S25 rim and drum setups for 3/8's lp ?:confused:

I'm not aware of any, at least not in current production. I know they had them years ago for 1/4 pitch...
 
Bob, you got a line on S25 rim and drum setups for 3/8's lp ?:confused:

I'm not aware of any, at least not in current production. I know they had them years ago for 1/4 pitch...

I have one in 1/4" pitch.........and recently obtained a 3/8-LP rim for it. Thank you gentlemen.......you know who you are. The rims are 9-spline and aren't easy to find in any pitch other than 1/4". There are a few out there still however. The 1/4" pitch XXV series Poulan application rim/drum systems (and separate 1/4"-9 nine spline rims) are still pretty easy to find.

There's a 'mystery' 3/8-LP 9-spline rim/drum system (for an unknown saw application) that keeps getting relisted on feebay. Somebody with an old Oregon catalog could probably tell us what saw it's for by the numbers. It's for a larger saw than a XXV series Poulan, as the drum is over 3" in diameter according to the seller's description.

On the Acres site, there's a listing for a 2400 Poulan that's very interesting. Now a 2400 actually is a rear handle version of a 2300AV Micro, but the Acres listing is for a Canadian market S25-CVA with a Windsor 'Mini-Pro' replaceable sprocket tip .325" pitch bar and a chain brake. The label on the clutch cover of the pictured saw (in the listing) clearly shows "Super XXV-CVA Mini Pro". I'd LOVE to see one of those saws 'in person'.

My guess is that it had the rim/drum system and a .325" pitch rim. I'm also guessing that there were 9-spline .325" pitch rims made for that 'mystery application' rim/drum system that I've seen on feebay. By the size of the clutch, it was probably at least a 50cc saw. Just for the heck of it, I'd like to try .325 pitch chain on an S25 saw someday. It must've worked OK, or they wouldn't have sold the Canuck saw with it...

I just got a good used 3/8-LP Windsor Mini-Pro bar that I'm going to run on one of my S25-CVA saws with my 3/8-LP rim/drum system. May even put a chainbrake on it (if I can get over the cost of it). I've also recently seen .325" pitch replacement sprocket noses for those Mini-Pro bars. I'm going to grab one if possible and put it aside. If I can scare up an NOS clutch cover decal for that Canadian saw (say from some old Canadian Poulan dealer.................Hey Tim can you help me out here???) then I'll have a good 'fake'.:D

Here are some Oregon #'s.

19779 is the number for the XXV series 1/4" pitch rim/drum system. I need to go get the # off of the drum itself. It's in the shop. I'll edit my post here with it later today.

18250 is the number for the 1/4-9 9-spline rim.

22580 is the number for the 3/8-LP 9-spline rim.

23115X is the number for the 'mystery application' 3/8-LP 9-spline rim/drum system.

Model Profile: 2400 (CANADA)
 

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